New differential seals needed while replacing CV axles?

Hey guys. I am about to replace my cv axles on my 08 again with about 335k miles. I replaced them about 70k miles ago with Napa ones. My local Napa was able to replace them under warranty so that is a nice bonus as these things have almost double in price since 2001.

When I first installed them in 2001, I did not replace the differential seals. The driver's side developed a leak about 10k miles later so I replaced it. The passenger side has never been changed at least while I have owned the truck. The axles are out already and ready for installation. There were no leaks prior to removing them.

Should I mess with any of the inner diff seals or leave well enough alone? Thanks!

 

If they're good and you don't damage them during cv install, I say leave it alone.

 

Just depends how much you like pulling axles out really... Most guys will do them at the same time cause you've already got like 90% of the work done. Personally I'm more of a "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" kind of guy.

 

Yeah I tend to think like that but most of the work is done already. The CV axles are a breeze to change with the exception of that c clip. The driver's side was easy but the passenger side put up a fight coming out. I called my local dealer and only the driver's side is in stock. Makes me wonder how often the dealership changes these things.

 

For the passenger side, there are like a half dozen different part numbers that all work. Most have been replaced with a new PN that works for all. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/cv-axle-oil-seal-lh-vs-rh.791371/ comment #8

 

Well I opted to leave the seals alone. I suppose time will tell if that was a bad decision. The installation of the CV axles was very easy.

The C clip and removal stands to be the hardest part of this job. Just need to add oil to the front differential and take it for a ride.

 

Get under there with a pickle fork and put it behind the dust cover. Pry on the pickle fork and twist the axle simultaneously.
When the clip is in the right spot, you'll feel it catch. Pop it out from there.

Just like picking a lock.

 

For when it leaks:
National P/N 710596 LH https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1927202&jsn=266
National P/N 710595 RH https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2480322&cc=3441741&pt=1860&jsn=11

On older trucks, rust jacking may develop between the diff case and seal OD. Before installing new seal, be sure to sand the bore smooth. Optionally put some sealant on the seal OD before installing.

 

I never had luck with that. Had to make a puller tool out of a cable and hammer lol

 

^With mine it was just the opposite. Hammer and kevlar rope did nothing. Hammering on the tulip notches did nothing. Prying between the diff case and tulip popped them out instantly.

 

I agree. This seems to work for me as well. The bigger the pry bar, the better.

 

This is the very reason why I chose to pass on replacing the passenger side. I knew I would have to remove some of the corrosion there. Hopefully I don’t have to find out.

 

^Just stuff a plastic bag in the diff hole and sand away corrosion with a flap wheel like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-8...-with-1-4-in-Shank-5-Piece-A91FW580/318211546 It would've gone pretty quick.

 

Here are the RockAuto part numbers