New engines with a bunch of codes

Hey guys. I just rebuilt the engine in my 04 prerunner with the 2.7 (Long story on that). Well I finally got everything hooked up ready to start today. Bear in mind, this truck hasn’t been ran in close to 2 years if I had to guess. I used all the old electrical parts that the other mechanic left with it.
Let me preface this with I’m confident this thing is timed right. Tried to crank it, it will crank and go dead. Hold your foot on the throttle and she will run but it’s very rough. And you can forget idling. Put the computer on it and several codes popped up. I’ll put up a screenshot and you can see. Have a look and tell me what you think. I hope I haven’t screwed up. Thanks again everyone

 

Did you confirm the connectors for your plugs and injectors are in the right order?

 

I know the coil wires are in the right order. However, I’m not sure about the injector plugs. There’s two gray connectors and two red connectors. I was guessing when I plugged them up

 

If it won't run how do you know that?

 

I took the valve cover off and verified it.

 

Valve timing correct?

What about ignition timing?

 

Valve timing is correct. It has coil packs. Thought the computer handled all that

 

Do you know this rebuilt engine builds adequate compression? If not a compression test would be a good idea

 

That is true. But the ECU gets it's signal from sensors such as camshaft position or crankshaft position.

Verify the coil packs are good of course, that there is no oil leaking into the plug wells via a messed up valve cover gasket, then start checking wiring and sensor connections.

 

Have you been able to keep it running long enough to burn out any oil left in the cylinders from the assembly process then take it on a run to seat the rings?

Was a new fuel filter installed? Did you add new fuel into it after it sat for the extended time? Hard to test fuel pressure on these 3rz since no fuel rail Schrader valve but fuel pump may be weak after its extended vacation.
Did you reuse the fuel injectors or put new ones in? A big gotcha on the injectors is that a lot of the eBay & Amazon injectors that claim to be OEM Toyota are in fact Chinese knocksoff that are very unreliable.

I would also pull every ground to the block, head, frame & battery and clean with sandpaper or a honing stone until shiny including where they mate to whichever surface and the washers behind the bolt then reassemble with dialect grease.

Ensure that your fuel injectors are hooked up correctly. The back 2 are relatively easy to get correct but very easy to mix up the front 2.

Also after it sat this long the Cam &/or Crank sensors may not like coming out of hibernation. It can drive you nuts as often it will throw misfire or lean/rich codes and not codes related to those sensors but the inaccurate data input is what is the actual root cause.

Can drive you NUTS exhuming a vehicle that has sat undriven for extended periods. Corrosion in connections & grounding points & sensors that worked perfectly before often go crazy when trying to bring back online and the codes thrown are often the misfire symptoms not the root cause.
Keep us posted.

 

The coils and plugs are new. They’re not Toyota coils though. It’s a new cam sensor. Old crank sensor. I did use the old injectors. I checked the grounds and they all seem good. If you hold your foot on the gas you can keep it running, but it goes up and down like it’s fuel delivery. Does anyone have a picture of the injectors plugged up? The two different color plugs could help make sure they’re right. And yes it also has a new fuel filter.

 

My front two are right. #3 has a red plug and #4 has a gray plug? Could you check yours please?

 

Looking now. Report back shortly.
One more thing to consider.
The break in metal can and often does get stuck on the magnets on your cam and crank position sensors. This also makes them read wild. Might inspect them and clean the probes off. If they do have metal drop your oil and even dump a quart of cheap oil or atf with the drain plug out as a flush. Also install a magnetic plug to help in the break in process. Will inspect rear plugs asap and report back.

 

Staggered brown gray brown gray
#1 brown
#2 gray
#3 brown
#4 gray

 

Same here. Atleast that’s right. I just looked at the cam sensor when I had the cover off verifying the timing. It looked good. I haven’t looked at the crank sensor though

 

Verify that TDC on the crankshaft is TDC on the harmonic balancer... they do slip.

 

Verified both marks are on zero on the timing chain cover as well as the dot on the cam shaft align. I’m lost

 

It is my mistake for not clarifying my comment. Take the spark plugs out, insert a long wooden dowel into cyl #1 spark plug hole and roll the motor over by ratchet and watch when the dowel is at its highest position. If you can look into the spark plug hole and see the top of the piston as it reaches the top then starts to go back down, stop and look at the harmonic balancer alignment dot. It is irrelevant on this test if it is on the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke, you are checking basic mechanical timing.

The outer portion of the balancer is pressed onto the inner part and the inner part is keyed to the crankshaft. After years of use the outer portion slips on the inner portion and when you time it you are timing it out of time even though all the marks line up.

 

Hi are you making any progress? This just happened to me in the last 2 weeks:

note for anyone chasing an acceleration stumble and erratic idle without a CEL check engine light. I had previously bought front & rear combo oxygen sensors from Amazon.The truck drove horrendous with the symptoms listed above. Felt like an EGR stumble from back in the 90s. Finally took to a shop and they unplugged the front 02 sensor and symptoms went away. Went back together with a Denso sensor. Truck purrs like a fat cat now.