New England B.S. Thread

James - good timing to look at this. On July 3 we left and went on vacation, and my fridge sat until this morning, truck untouched/unmoved. Windows up, so no airflow and the internal of the cab must have been steamy. 100W panel on the roof, and truck was parked in some-son-ish area of my driveway. And about half-full of water and iced tea. Dometic CFF45.






Weather was fiesty.



I think if I had the windows down and some air flow, and it wasn't a heat wave, it would be able to keep up better. I'm sure the cab was bananaland hot and didn't cool down when the sun went down with the windows up.

 

I dont have any issues but I am usually using it in northern maine and when the suns out I keep that window down. Literally so I dont have to open the door to get a beer

 

For those that have replaced your lower control arms. Toyota hardware is still the go to? And there's multiple options for the lower control arms anybody have part numbers? Want to make sure I'm getting the right stuff.

 

You still rocking Toyo at3s?
Thinking to get their c rated 255/75r17s lol

 

I was at the cape, it was at least 90 out. Not parked in the shade. I have an ARE MX bed cap now, with a sleep setup in the back. The fridge isn’t covered by the sleeper and about 1-2” around the vents.

I think the part that makes me scratch my head is that when I replugged it in it seems to have gotten cooler again but then fizzle out. I’m gonna go ahead and guess that it was just too hot for the little unit. Iceco’s go20.

My setup was that it was plugged into a 12v socket on the ecoflow river pro2. The battery did great, it can run it for like 3 days before recharging. I might run a ac to dc converter to use the modified sine wave outlet in the back as the ac plug requires pure sine. Annoying. Not sure if the converter that came with the fridge is rated for it but if it’s only 100w, I’m pretty sure it’s fine. I’ll have to open the slider windows next time on the dry days

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...70E/319025360?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-road-trips-build.712648/page-4#post-28785588

 

Yeah.

So, I'm typing this as I'm pulling a plant back down.
Even ambient conditions right now, are tough. A closed up car, excessive.
There is a max that compressor can handle, and with a closed vehicle/space it reaches it FAST.
The Iceco is the one I plan on, but, I'm not sure on safeties/cutouts yet. Not a high priority at the moment.
But, reseting power likely allowed it to reset, then reach conditions again.
Another thing, voltage drops, amp draw increases.
So if you're trying to draw more than you're rated for, voltage will drop, causing amps to go up, and also increasing heat(likely negligible, other than the compressor getting hot).
I'm sure it has voltage protection for this reason.

But, in short, if you can keep its space as close to ambient as possible, should run good....

Sorry for rambling, still working.

 

Informative and supports my thinking so makes me think I’m on the right track

 

Well this just sucks a big old walrus wang...

Anyone interested in purchasing 2 tickets to Journey/Def Leppard on Mon August 5th at Fenway? Please please please save me from the Craigslist fools. Paid $400 but willing to negotiate.

 

Tractor's fixed. Another warranty issue - they replaced the hydraulic fittings and said it's nothing I caused. I'm hoping that's the last issue and I didn't end up with the world's only unreliable Kubota.

 

I always use Toyota hardware for LCAs.

 

Isn't there something about using T4R bolts that are better or something? Or am I just making this up.

 

Are you thinking of diff plugs? In which case lexus pt no. I think

 

Lower shock bolts, you might be thinking of. You can also just pick up some particular Grade 10 metrics that are the same way, i.e. no threaded portion "inside" the shock eye/between the mounting tabs on the LCA. Some people get a low speed clunk that supposedly comes from the little shoulder between the smooth shank in the eye and the threads in the tab.

I bought JIS class 10 metrics with a long enough shank cause they were a fraction of the cost of Toyota labeled stuff.

 

I bought Lexus diff plugs for my 4Runner. You get a hex bolt rather than a Allen bolt that's easily stripped.

 

That's it. Thank you.

 

Oh, like my stripped front diff bolt? I still need to change that fluid again. After the disaster that was my other driveline fluids, I needed a break.

 

Get someone to weld a sacrificial socket on, then replace with the good stuff

 

Hard to get much worse. I hated that stupid f-in setup for the LCA.

 

Yup! Replaced mine with it