New England B.S. Thread

Where are the trails? The only time i went we just stayed on the beach itself right near the water.

 

Now for the marsh trails can you go out there with the ORV or is there something else I need. Saturday I did see a tundra shoot up trail 4 and never saw him again. I need more light for night time holy fuck does it get weird out there driving at 10pm

 

I think trail 2 is about a mile from the gate. trail 3 is probably mile and a half after that or more.

The dune trails are only for property owners. Or those who can get a note from an owner. or someone who goes in the offseason after 7 o'clock when the rangers have gone home. I love driving out there at night, unfortunately it leave something to be desired when the fourth of july rolls around and its bumper to bumper the whole way down the entire beach.

 

Who can tell me how to embed my build thread link in the words "build thread"? I never got much further than basic html.

 

Use this code:

[*URL="http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-builds/277961-yota-lovers-2011-dclb-build.html#post6891902"]Build Thread[/URL]

Just remove the "*" before you save it.

 

Now you should get fancy and link it to the picture in your sig

 

Did you miss the part where I said I don't know a thing about HTML? I'd probably end up crashing TW

 

Well, how fucked am I? Only ONE of 4 brake line couplers on the rear brake lines came loose. The others started rounding. I need to replace the stock lines with my Toytec lines.

They rounded even with the flange nut wrench! What the fuck!?

What do I do? Cut the couplers off and put new ones on with a flange tool?

Really frustrated right now

 

Check to see how much hard line is left after the rounded off fitting. If there is a healthy bend and you can get at least 1-2", then you can cut the hard line right at the fitting (fine tooth metal hacksaw blade), slide the new fitting on, and then flare the cut end.

Be careful and take your time. If you screw up flaring the cut end you wont get a good seal. Then you'll have to cut that off and start again. You run out of extra hard line very quick in most spots.

If you don't have any slack in the hard line to use for a new fitting, you'll need a whole new line so don't bother dicking with the old one.

 

TW only crashes with the mods get drunk and try to ban each other

 

Or when we start talking about gummers and horses hahaha

 

I was gonna try Technical Chat but I'll start here..

I know some of you guys have or do work at dealerships.

First, I'm trying to get the entire text of a TSB re the 2004-06 Chevy Colorado cylinder head failure.

Second, I have a couple of questions about warranty work in general. I would be fine with PM'ing those as it may take up some space here.

Anyone?

 

You mean smoothies?

 

Nah, we've covered that subject rather extensively here and TW is still alive and well.

 

Hey All,
I have an update to my "Clunking" LCA/ lower ball joint region....
I started developing a clunk in my driver side front end during the large wheeling trip a few weeks back. I found it was clunking when I turned the wheel all the way to the right and slowly moved forward then stopped. Then again when not turning the wheel and put it in reverse and slowly moved then stopped again.

I put eyes on my lower ball joint and saw where some grease had been coming out of the boot. I took a photo and left it in this thread. I then purchased the Mevotech LCA which included the whole new arm with new bushings and the ball joint. It was cheap in price at $145 with 2 day shipping. It got here quick. I tore it open and it looked like OEM quality. I inspected it well. So a week and a half goes by before I can do the install. I was getting antsy. I wanted to install this thing asap.

So Friday night I began pulling it apart. I marked the cams so I would be able to get the alignment cams to the right position so I would not have a hard time taking it for a proper alignment. When I marked this I made 2 marks per cam @ 90 degrees. I didn't really compare the driver side to the passenger side. The rear cam bolt seemed to be rusted in. Nothing I did for about 20 mins could free it. Then I figured what the hell just keep spinning the cam bolt with the cams outside the brackets. 3 turns later and the bolt came right out. Sweet!!! time to pull off the lower ball joint bracket. With the ball joint separator it came right off. Now time to reassemble. I placed the bracket on the new lower ball joint (LBJ) and tightened the castle nut as much as I could knowing I could tighten it to the 100 lbs on the truck. I got everything together in half the time I tore it apart. When I started torqueing that castle nut I realized the cotter pin was so close but I was at the 100 ft lbs. The book says I can go over the torque spec to fit it. Yea screw that, the castle nut and LBJ stripped the last turn. I pulled it all apart. I was not happy about this. It was now 9 pm and I was doing this with my streamlight in the dark. I gave up for the night.

The next morning I inspect the parts that stripped on me the night before. Guess what, the fitment of the LBJ and the factory LBJ bracket is not exact!!. The factory LBJ bracket only fit perfect with the factory LBJ.

Pissed as hell, I returned the part and started calling every local Toyota dealership on a Saturday morning. Everyone quoted me for a new LCA at $400 and I could not get it until Tuesday. I said fine I will man up and just pay to play... but I still needed my truck until Tuesday night. It is my daily driver. So I put the entire old assemble back together. Torqued everything down. Drove it around the block.
Guess what!!
THE DAMN CLUNKING was GONE!

Not trusting that LBJ\LCA and knowing I needed an oil change. I said screw it. I will take it to the dealer and have them just check the ball joint for me. They immediately saw that whoever did my alignment had placed the front cams on the driver side was upside down. Knowing I marked and correctly aligned to the previous specs. I knew I had not put it back together wrong but intentionally to the spec they previously aligned it too.

So in hindsight it seems the alignment I complained about a few weeks before as being so horrible, resurfaced as a bad clunk while we where wheeling combined with the rusty cam bolt. Freeing the rusty rear alignment bolt and having a proper alignment for $99 has fixed my clunking issue.

So I deduct that a rusty cam bolt was the cause of both my horrible alignment and the clunk. I hope this may help someone else.
David

 

OR. Cut the line, use a compression fitting and extend to the original length then add the toyotec

 

No you know how the front end comes apart at least and for the part I would stick with quality parts. I choose NAPA all the time I just have always had good luck "Made In USA" I have a clunk and cant find it so I'm shipping it off to the Toyota dealer when I have a day off

 

It sucks you had to go thru all that but atleast you found it. Also thanks for passing along the info so others might not suffer the same

 

X2, i am glad you posted that. I am pretty sure i have heard a strange clunk twice now, but i cant replicate it. :/