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New England B.S. Thread

Discussion in 'North East' started by mach1man001, Feb 16, 2012.

  1. Oct 7, 2020 at 6:11 PM
    crashngiggles

    crashngiggles Tacomaworld's Resident Psych Dr.

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    What size?
     
  2. Oct 7, 2020 at 6:16 PM
    ABNFDC

    ABNFDC Well-Known Member

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    265/75/16 Wildpeaks, Dakar rear, HS 2.5" front coils
    LT 265/75/16
     
  3. Oct 7, 2020 at 6:17 PM
    crashngiggles

    crashngiggles Tacomaworld's Resident Psych Dr.

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    I would have made that choice as well with that size. I went with a 285/70 17.
     
    ABNFDC likes this.
  4. Oct 7, 2020 at 6:25 PM
    MikeyMcFly

    MikeyMcFly This is heavy, Doc.

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    Ah, I love a good oil debate.

    I have to believe the push for 0w-20 is strictly fuel economy, at the expense (to a degree) of wear. I have no issue running a 0w-20 in my Tacoma especially since it's still under warranty, but I haven't done any UOAs to confirm anything. Jeep changed the spec at some point on the GC in 2016 from 5w-20 to a 0w-20. I just request the synthetic change and they run Mopar bulk synthetic which is purported to be Penzoil Platnium, which always had decent UOAs on the BIITOG forums. With MaxCare, I don't necessarily even care what the oil is, as long as I keep the intervals fair (every 5,000) and have it documented.

    The Vette runs M1 5w-30 as that's the recommended factory fill, but the M1 when the car came out versus the M1 of today apparently are different oils, with the old oil being somewhat superior as I think it had more Zinc or ZPP which was for anti-wear. I need to suck it up and get a Quick Jack at some point as the past 3 times I've had the oil done it, I've ended up overfull. It's not a huge issue since the owners manual recommends a quart over if you're tracking it and the LS1 is known to eat a little oil in the upper RPMs, but it's still annoying nonetheless.

    Interestingly enough M1 5w-30 is the devil in the turbo Subaru world with a history of spun bearings. The best consesnsus I could come to based upon all my reading was that M1 5w-30 would shear down to a 20 weight by the end of the OCI and cause bad things to happen. It's interesting that both the WRX and STi still require 5w-30 whereas all other Subarus are 0w-20. I used to be a bit nutty with mine and I'd run the 0w-30 German Castrol Syntec at 3,750 mile intervals with UOAs done each change. I never put in more than 1/4 quart during any interval and more often than not would not put in oil. I also checked the oil every single time I drove the car and had oil temp and pressure gauges to monitor and wouldn't see boost until both were in the correct operating range. Yeah, I was crazy. I liked that oil specifically as it had a reputation of flowing excellent when cold, but performing more like a 40 weight when it was hot. If / when I go back down into that rabbit hole ($975 saved thus far!) I'll probably go with either that or whatever Rotella T6 is popular now.

    So, enough about the oil.

    I ended up bitching out the dealership for using the wrong transfer case fluid on my truck. I was anticipating (and got) the standard well LX is the same as LF fluid and our techs believe there's no difference. I gently asked the question why did Toyota change the fluid spec if there was no difference (LF is a straight synthetic 75wt whereas LX is a 75w85). He didn't have an answer but then came back with "well it would have been significantly more expensive to use the LF fluid had you requested that at the outset). I asked why I wasn't given the correct fluid and the correct price from the outset as I went to a Toyota dealership with a Toyota. So after a bunch of back and forth, he agreed that they'd swap the fluid and I'd pay the difference in fluid as it was "significantly more expensive". Mind you, MSRP was under $5 a liter. Magically a pair of liters appeared and they didn't charge me the change. My dash cam showed the truck went into the shop, up on a lift and down, so I can only assume the fluid actually got changed. I just go nutty sometimes when I'm in the situation where I know more than the person holding the power. In this case, I knew the correct fluids and the service advisor simply didn't. But, he's the one that controls the purse strings. At 60,000 miles when I change everything again I'm going to just suck it up and DIY it. I hate, hate, hate dealing with fluids, but this was way more annoying.

    I made an appointment the end of the month to get the frame junk done, which will be interesting as you all know my frame is bathed in FF. I figure whatever they do this time is a cavity wax and not a CRC paint, but whatever happens will simply get coated again in FF. My goal was simply to get the 12 year deal on the frame in case something screwy happens.

    Lastly, I put my skid plate back on. What a pain the ..... that was. Yes, it's six bolts, but it shouldn't take me 2 hours to get it connected right. I ended up cross threading a bolt just enough on Monday afternoon I had to get a M12x1.25 tap that I couldn't find anywhere local to clean up the hole to get everything to sit right. I had a M12x1.25 die, just not the tap. There is at least a sense of satisfaction getting everything back together.
     
    ABNFDC likes this.
  5. Oct 7, 2020 at 6:30 PM
    ABNFDC

    ABNFDC Well-Known Member

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    IMO, always do your own fluid changes and try to know more than any dealer you go to.

    The OEM gray skid plate does tend to be a royal pain in the ass to re install. With the dumb stuff I did to my front license plate mounts, I actually removed the grill to get at it than the skid plate.
     
    GarlicFarts likes this.
  6. Oct 7, 2020 at 6:31 PM
    ABA180

    ABA180 It burns when I pee....

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    Haha 800 miles per quart. My old Mustang I had in high school burned a quart per 300.

    Should get my wife one of those, the name fits..
     
    ABNFDC and Bruce988jl like this.
  7. Oct 7, 2020 at 6:39 PM
    MikeyMcFly

    MikeyMcFly This is heavy, Doc.

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    The plan was to do it this summer, but with two kids, both getting sick during my vacation week, the heat we had, etc, etc....total excuses but such is life. I have no problem speaking up for what I want. Like I said, at 60,000 I'll do the fluids myself, but then the kids will be older so it will be less of a pain to sneak away for a day to do them. Once I get out of warranty I'll probably consider the spin on filter adapater and the Fumoto drain valve to make things super easy.

    The TRD Plate for the 2G was pretty easy to deal with as it was designed to sit on bolt heads as a hanger, but the 3G plate is much larger / heavier and covers more area.
     
    ABNFDC and ABA180 like this.
  8. Oct 7, 2020 at 6:41 PM
    ABA180

    ABA180 It burns when I pee....

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    Yeah I'd be kicking someone's ass about "well it was more expensive" as well.
     
    ABNFDC likes this.
  9. Oct 8, 2020 at 4:41 AM
    Bridge4

    Bridge4 Well-Known Member

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    Toyo or falkens, not even close with the rest in my opinion.
     
  10. Oct 8, 2020 at 4:45 AM
    JeffB

    JeffB Well-Known Member

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    I'll do that today! Thanks!
     
    Pugga likes this.
  11. Oct 8, 2020 at 4:55 AM
    Bridge4

    Bridge4 Well-Known Member

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    I just did wheels and tires on my 1st gen not too long ago, got them from tire rack mounted and balanced, I think was like 1200 total, maybe a little more.

    toyo at2. 3s were just coming out but I couldn’t wait a month.
     
  12. Oct 8, 2020 at 5:09 AM
    Scott17818

    Scott17818 Well-Known Member

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    methodMR305NV, 265/70/17duratracs, ARB RTT, DITCH Lights
    I already have the filter tool for toyota housings, it spins off easy after loosining it, and the filters are pretty cheap ($18 for a 3 pack on Amazon with o-rings, and the housing drain spout) I also plan to put the Fumoto valve in there. looking at the F-103s for the tacoma, and the F133s for the wifes 4-runner (have the dealer install it on next toyotacare service oil change)... I prefer to do my own servicing now that my tacoma is off toyota care.. which I plan to log all my services in a notebook (kept all dealer service reciepts)...
     
  13. Oct 8, 2020 at 5:24 AM
    js312

    js312 Well-Known Member

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    I agree. My Grabber AT2s were the best AT tires I've run.
     
    tacobell007 likes this.
  14. Oct 8, 2020 at 5:36 AM
    GarlicFarts

    GarlicFarts Bang Ding Ow

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    I have that tool too. I still dump oil everywhere, I hate the cartridge filters. I'm sure there's a "better" way to do it but I haven't found it yet.
     
  15. Oct 8, 2020 at 6:25 AM
    Scott17818

    Scott17818 Well-Known Member

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    When I worked as a service tech I found it soo much easier to use a small pick and push up on the plunger and release the main amount of oil.. then when I unscrewed the filter housing i would clean it out with brake cleaner, and I also used my pick that I stuck in the plunger & used to remove the large o-ring to run around the larger new o-ring (underneath it, to be sure the o-ring did not have any twists in it) wiped it with some oil on my fingers, and then carefully screwed the drain cap onto the housing with its new lubed o-ring, the plastic housing was screwed into place with the new filter installed. never had one leak or cracked one... there is a tang that locks the filter housing cap into place, and the filter housing cap should sit flush, there is no TQ setting for it... the filter housing was done as the oil pan is draining to save time. shouldnt take more than 10 minutes...

    before this you should have done your check ride, & 100+ point inspection and advised your service rep of any deficiencies/things to watch & notify the customer about: IE: low brake pads, tire wear issues, upcoming recommended service items, handling issues (vibrations/alignment), etc... at that point the rep notifies the customer of any issues, or upcoming issues for service and replacement, and by the time your oil change, and door lock lube is done the customer has paid & scheduled other repairs/services. you do your tire rotation/ clean rims, check tire pressure & check tire balance) after service checks, and after ride (1-2 miles) then do your post service QC... and place new service sticker on the windshield. start to finnish is about 45minutes to an hour depending on the vehicle... the 100+ inspection took most of the time.... tire rotation/balance, and oil change takes about 20 minutes, provided there are no interuptions.
     
  16. Oct 8, 2020 at 6:41 AM
    Sloth

    Sloth Baby Ruth?

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    Stuff
    The Toyo's are lighter than the Falkens too, which might or might not be important. I've got the Falkens on my Landcruiser, and they have been great. Impressed offroad and onroad they've been great. Pretty damn good in the snow. Tire noise is avearge for an all terrain tire I would say, but mine have about 40k miles on them now so it's to be expected. I was seriously eying the Toyo's for my next tire since they're like 8# lighter a tire in the size i'm running (275/70/18 i.e. ~33.5").
     
    Bridge4 and crashngiggles like this.
  17. Oct 8, 2020 at 7:17 AM
    Sloth

    Sloth Baby Ruth?

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    Or just go full...and get MT's for a daily driven vehicle. That's likely what i'll do when these falkens burn out, even though an AT would be far more appropriate for my uses. Because i'm dumb, and MT's are cool.
     
    m603holden likes this.
  18. Oct 8, 2020 at 7:25 AM
    Scott17818

    Scott17818 Well-Known Member

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    they definitly look cooler with the aggressive tread patterns, and just slightly sticking out past the wheel wells...
     
    Bridge4 likes this.
  19. Oct 8, 2020 at 7:37 AM
    Sloth

    Sloth Baby Ruth?

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    Not that I offroad a lot, but a few times a year. So obviously I need them. Honestly when I had them on my FJ that thing had so much wind noise as it was that they really didn't make a difference noise wise. And damn they do look good. Also I drive like an old lady generally, so I never had any issues in the winter on the packed snow.
     
  20. Oct 8, 2020 at 8:07 AM
    Spare Parts

    Spare Parts Changed

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    I use the Toyota service app and log my stuff there

    there is a little nozzle that comes with the filter, that is supposed to be jammed up in or something (only done it once so far) and let that drain before removing the filter housing
     

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