New England B.S. Thread

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-road-trips-build.712648/page-2#post-26178916

This is what I did in the tacoma, I'd do this in a WRX too. I know a guy who did this in an accord (or similar). This way I could kip up in the cab, no setting up tents, etc BUT the muddy dusty crap goes into the trunk, so i don't have to snuggle up with a muddy flat tire that's been swapped out that day. Great for 1 or 1+dog, terrible for 2 +

Re CVT - fair. My wife has one in her hybrid camry, and it's fine - I have no problems at the top level. They're pretty cool from an engineering standpoint. I know the early ones had some issue, and serviceability is lower but they also aren't (newer ones) grenading themselves left and right.

BUT. People don't buy a WRX to baby it, so if I got one used, it will have been beaten into submission even before me. And then ME, I don't plan to be gentle on it, at all. So I am hesitant on the CVT for THAT situation. But hey, highway miles/daily driver, heck yeah, they're fine.

 

Probably doing one at my shop in a few weeks but can only fit a few so makes it hard who to invite.

 

Not me. I can wait, and all I got is a skid plate bolt to wrestle with. Get Matt's truck good so I can see him drive it up a waterfall.

 

After doing replacing upper/lower control arms in a 110 degree garage I like the cold. The worst part is it gets dark so early for your 1 hr job that turns into 8hr

 

got ya. everyone once in a while i play with the paddle shifters. Its no manual no doubt, but i get my go kart fix on back roads, a stare from the wife, and back to mundane auto

 

Depending on the day I'd be down just to lend a hand. Dont need anything yet...

 

The WRX used market has gone through the roof (as have all enthusiast cars).

I’ve been monitoring the market for a few months now and anything pre-07 that isn’t a show piece has quarter panel rot (wagons are specifically bad with potential for strut tower rot). The 08s aren’t worth buying as the 09-10s are that much better in nearly every way. The 09-10 being narrowbody run less than the 11-14 cars. 15+ is luck of the draw.

Getting into an 11-14 for under $12,000 is going to take a sacrifice in mileage, condition, or how vape bro you want. Hatches tend to run more than sedans.

You likely could get a decent 09-10 for $10,000 if you don’t mind not being flared. I keep waffling as it would get me into the GR chassis in a more budget friendly way, but I just don’t love the narrowbody.

The problem is interest rates have gone up with prices making a fun stupid purchase a lot. I had hoped to get a widebody hatch for $10.5 which would give me a $200/mo payment and a slush fund for repairs but it’s looking more like $12.5-13.5 for one worth buying and bumping payment. I’ve been considering extending term and jumping to a lower mileage 15+ and going that route but it seems silly for a third car.

If I had family in a rust free area where I could buy another GD chassis car I would, but I don’t so I don’t know what I’ll do.

My original plan was a decent blob even though I don’t love the 2.0L for $6-7,000 and have some fun, but there aren’t any left really.

Hindsight being 20/20 I should have kept my STi and bought a cheap early C4 for open roof fun but such is life.

 

There's a dealer doing 10 year 150k mile warranty on any new subaru purchase.....


Also my CV is getting louder....what's a rough time frame on CVs failing upon starting to hear noise.

Might need it done sooner than later damnit lol

 

The trouble with those dealer warranties is they require all services completed at their dealership. I don’t know if they use the factory recommended schedule or some sort of modified schedule that includes things like “replacing the engine block every 9 months or 9,000 miles, whichever comes first”.

It’s a good deal if you plan to dealer service anyways, though. When I had my Chase Subaru card Mastria would take the Subaru Bucks I earned and let me use them towards things other than OEM parts and repairs as they had a back door into some aftermarket parts site. My Cobb AccessPort was $270, my Cobb 3” downpipe was $10.00, the AEM UEGO wideband kit, new seat foam and Eibach Pro-Kit springs (which I never used) together cost me $30.00.

For a few years there anytime I went out with friends I’d pay with the card, anything I could run through it I would. I miss those days.

 

Honestly, it could click/make a ton of noise for tens of thousands of miles and not fail. We had a customer at my work with a Honda Pilot that had a bad CV axle for ~30k miles, and it never failed, even though if you made the slightest turn, it sounds like the front end was falling off!

 

I prefer the heat, not going to lie. To each their own!

those paddle shifters make me giggle.

new is the key word there. I've taken a new vehicle into the woods before, it was not my smartest move, I want to avoid that repeat Also, I plan to basically be dumping the suspension, wheels, and tires straight away, and a 20% chance the MT would be swapped out anyway eventually. But, I think with my driving plan, the stock MT should be plenty. I want to rip on forest roads, not roll it on rally stages. Either way, the new markup doesn't make sense if I'm going to be dumping 10k into it straight away.

I'm not AGAINST a V6 or bigger I4, and ditching the turbo. In which case I could just get a base trim big engine car and do all the suspension work that a rally "trim" would bring to it stock. Sort of like buying a base trim tacoma since the uptrim stuff is being shit tanked anyway.

Dunno. It's still kind of a pipe dream, I need to do a lot more research and then convince the better half that it's an essential purchase





@jpereira2 are you towing, or beating on it? If not you have time to wait it out for a nice warm/convenient day and don't have to hammer down to get it done in ice/cold/kids birthdays.

 

It all depends, but that's definitely on its way out. They're easy to change so I'd say just change it sooner than later

 

Strut rot..cringe. Saw that once on an Escort GT and scared me

 

Contemplating ordering from CVJ axles. Anybody have any experience with them? They have options for lifted trucks but I feel like I can just get their stock replacement ones with toyota parts since I've not had an issue in 70k miles lifted
https://www.cvjreman.com/product-tag/9808/

 

I was curious since I couldn't find their price anywhere on their website, web design looks like it's from 2001

Not sure they would ship to MA for you.

 

Damnit!

 

I called them. They ship everywhere, including MA. If you enter in the state (MA) AND include your town and zip it should pull up shipping options. If that does not work then call them.

Edit: I entered info for my home address and that worked.

Edit2: The woman thanked me for pointing that glitch out to her. She did not know their website would kick back a no shipping options available if people did not include a location and zip.

 

@Boston10Taco ran them on his tacoma and they seemed to hold up til he got a small tear in a boot and would have death wobble after going through puddles lol

 

@jpereira2 if you order from cvj don't buy their neoprene outer boots. They dry rot and then tear. Pay the extra for the oe toyota boots. Their red silicone extended inner boots were good. Never had an issue with those. The neoprene outer sucked. And I had a stick go through a toyota outer. But that was their fault.

Edit: ask the woman if you can prepay for the return shipping label. Their shipping rates are way cheaper than you can ship the core back. They do charge a hefty core charge.

 

Also if anyone is looking for a spare. I have a used cvj reman with a torn outer boot. I have a new toyota replacement for it. Just haven't put it on.