NEW FRAME RUST PREVENTION

Ok so we all know Toyota is doing frame recalls in several states.
I was notified last week that my '07 with 50K needs a new frame.
So the theme of this thread is to discuss methods of preventing rust internally & externally on a new frame (new truck or recall).
Please no discussion on the recall itself. There r plenty of threads discussing that. Thanks.

 

You'd think the new frames would be improved with anti rust enforcements put in place.

 

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2043211

 

POR 15

 

You would think Toyota would have redesigned the 2nd gen frames. But they did not.
I know people that rave about por-15, but isn't it for frames with rust?
Since it is paint over rust, I don't think it would work.
I like fluid film for inside the frame. Anyone plugging their frame after applying fluid film?
Scott,what undercoating would u use?

 

I personally use fluid film and every year after that do retouches where needed. Post 2009 the frames do not use the same metal in production so we will see is a few years how they hold up. I would personally not use a rubberized antitrust on a rusted frame because all they do is lock in the humidity which causes corrosion.

 

Ask you dealer to get the frame sprayed with Line-X or powder coated by a local shop before they install it on your truck

 

I used two cans of FF on my '13 for piece of mind this fall. There was already a little bit of rust on some of the welds and hitch mount.

 

When I drove my 2015 home from the dealer, the first thing I did was spray the frame with FF, used a undercoating gun and compressor. I will do this every yr.
I got the undercoating kit from kellsportproducts for $80 came with a gal FF, 1 spray can, sprayer, extra plastic spray bottles, and a few other things. I have enough left to do it again.

 

I wish I knew about the frame problems Toyota had in the past before I bought mine, because I would of used Fluid film from day one. I washed my truck so much, they thought my frame was from the south, when they inspected it, but I would have liked to get a new frame, so I don't have to worry about a perforated frame in the future, or at least give me the same 15 years from in service date, that older Tacoma trucks received to give me a little peace of mind.

I know if I didn't spend so much time and money to take care of my truck, that I would most likely be getting a new frame too. When I do get a new truck in the future, the first thing I will do is FF it right away.

 

There are many threads, check here:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/355928-rust-prevention-consolidation-thread.html

 

Anyone have a preference on which undercoating to use?

 

I use Fluid Film twice a year (spring & fall) and my 13' (bought in 2012) still looks pretty new underneath even though it's constantly wet and muddy. It's worked great so far!

The FF does wash off of the high spray areas easily though, like on the lower control arms. In the couple spots that get a lot of road spray like the control arms and leaf springs, where I did see some rust starting to occur, I hit those spots with Amsoil HDMP which cures when it dries and is much harder to remove than the Fluid Film. Both of these products will displace water, not trap it underneath, and can even be sprayed onto wet surfaces.

The only reason I don't use the Amsoil HDMP on my entire truck is because I don't want to get any over spray on the paint, and have read on TW that the Amsoil is impossible to get off without using a clay bar. I also like the ability to wash off the FF if I want to work on a part of the truck, and it's easier to see what's going on with the metal underneath with FF.

 

I've used POR15 on my old built Jeep - axles & such.

POR15 works the best when its applied to RUSTED stuff. I'm not talking surface rust. I'm taking pitted rusty kinda stuff. The shit soaks up into the pours and attaches itself to the rust.

You can put it on non-rusted areas, but you really & truly need to PREP the areas almost perfectly (clean, clean, clean, and clean again). You also have to apply an acid type etching (you can buy it thru them) that is supposed to etch the surfaces so the POR15 can stick to it. Again - all of this depends on how perfect your prep job is. Or Jeep actually developed a few spots (the non rusted areas) where it peeled off because the areas weren't 'perfectly prepped'. It's a royal PITA to prep the non rusted areas.

 

There are more rust prevention threads than there are "what are the biggest tires I can run stock" threads. There's a nice consolidation thread that has links to hours and hours of repeated comments. Most if not all rust prevention sprays if done properly and often enough will do the job.

 

Thanks never. I have read some of those threads,& they give some great info.
Most of the discussion is for rust presentation after it has started.
My concern & the reason for starting the thread is for the thousands of members that are in the frame replacement process.
I am in the same boat, & want to do all I can to make this my last frame,& my last truck.
Thanks for your comments.

 

Has anyone ordered the 28 plug frame kit the dealers are using when performing the coating recall work? And do they use the plugs when installing a new frame?

 

Anyone?

 

Has anyone ever considered moving the catalytic converters further back in an effort to stop the frame from rusting?

 

Reviving an old thread to see if anyone had input on how their replaced frame was holding up. Just purchased a 2006 with a <2 year old frame from MA. Plan on Fluid Film/Eastwood internal frame coating, but really curious as to if the new frames were better?