New head gasket, now truck overheats

Yeah, I hear ya. Wanted to rule out the easy stuff. Hope my engine didn't get to hot in the process though.

 

Did you use Toyota gaskets?

 

Nope, local auto parts supply. Guess it was a gamble, with the odds against me. It does seem like the flow is greatly restricted. Think it's time to sell it as a parts truck?

 

Dang it!! That sucks it wasnt the water pump! Now it gets real frustrating. ...

 

TSB for head gasket mix up on 5VE engine. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/6...lp.html#/forumsite/20543/topics/391264?page=1

 

wow, that sucks. if there is any good in this situation, everything you have done was needed and not wasted money, just some wasted time stressing over this, but now you know you just need to replace the head gaskets and your good to go. man it sucks I know but at least now you solved the puzzle.

I think someone even mentioned this in on of the replies.

 

Yeah it was mentioned, but like you said it needed done cause it sat so long.

So I figured what the hell, I want to move with truck anyway and where I'm going the cooling system will need to be tip top (arizona). Better if I do it and not the mechanic ($$$!).

Taking the engine down to the block will give me a chance to have the internals assessed for rust and wear from sitting so long. And while it's in the shop I can have that freeze plug replaced.

So no worries, I appreciate all the replies. Sorry if it felt like I was stringing you all along but I was kinda hopeful for a simple solution. Thanks for sticking it out so long.

I like wrenching on vehicles so it wasn't too stressful. I've been doing it so much lately three of my neighbors came over to see what I was up too and one stuck around to help yesterday!

I'll update this thread when it's done, and if it's not the head gasket, well I don't want to think about that.

 

this will show you how to do the head job yourself, its not hard, just takes a little time and the confidence to do it yourself
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=voLBRDZL9fE

 

After watching this and reviewing the FSM, I feel I can do this. However I am curious if I should adjust the valve shims while the cams are off. I can at least check the clearances and if anything is too tight come back later because the heads don't have to come off to adjust the valve shims. Should I buy a shim kit, or just try to move the shims around and call the dealer for the few I might need? Or, am I putting the cart before the horse? The shims were adjusted by the dealer at 100k miles and the truck now has 200k miles.

Also, I know it's been done before but if I get down there and the head gaskets are not swapped, I'm looking at a clogged port, right? How can I safely asses whether the passages are clear or not? Run a steel wire through them? Flashlight?

 

well our setup has to be together to do that, so the cam and head needs to be together in order to measure the gap between the cam lobe and the tappet. just measure and record your clearance after you reinstall the cams and do any replacing of tappets at the reassembly stage.

 

To each his own, but if they were adjusted at just 100K ago,,I wouldn't touch the shims. Just keep everything in hospital clean order. They should be fine. If you have valves and seats ground and the heads checked for warp, ect, ect,,,then absolutely check those clearances before it is started, and after a few miles.

Most of the time, You will see if you have a severly clogged passage once you are that far dissassembled. Cross your fingers for swapped gaskets at this point in time,,it's going to make it so much easier. HF mini cameras,,flashlights, wire,,all yes to those. The only true way to tell is to force water thru the heads and block,,with careful plugging of passages to get the water to flow the direction you want, and then also keeping it out of areas you don't want it in,,(whew).

This is a big task set before you,,you feel 120% comfortable about that decision?. You have skimmed the FSM lets say,,and read all you can with the time you have. Double that research up when you have the time,,so you can reach for needed tools with your eyes closed.

 

Bet the gasket isn't lined up correctly, also bet there's air in the system, a also bet not using the proper RED toyota coolant is an issue as well

 

The OEM red coolant definitely makes a difference. What is nice is that you can top off with most tap water,,and not get rapid gunk growth on the tubes. Have used that stuff since new. Flushed the original out at about 175K and replaced with the same. The down tubes in the radiator look new still.

 

I hope no one reads this and thinks it's OK to use tap water.

 

I respect your opinion, but you should also respect the opinion of others who find no issue with using tap water.

tap water is NOT the demon destroyer of engines you make it out to be, yes it would be best to use distilled water instead of tap water, but its not going to cause any serious issues if you don't. perhaps the system may not stay as perfectly clean as it would with only distilled water and red coolant but any "minor" scaling that "may" result from using tap water is more of a cosmetic issue then one that could cause any ill effects in the cooling system.

 

I respect both sides to that and add as well, that I use a inline RV potable water filter to yank some of the heavy stuff out of the tap water I use, and for filling up the fresh camp water for drinking. Not every time,,sometimes your down to filtering swamp water with your T-shirt to get home.

The textbook idea and RECCOMENDATION is to use distilled,,and it's a damn good one for reasons already known. These poor old vehicles have been running hard and strong on tap water for how long?.

 

Well, I've read both arguments about adjusting the valves, some say do it, others say don't touch them. I figure I can at least check the clearances with my feeler gauge and if anything is way out of spec, take care of it.

I don't know if you've seen that video that keakar posted by worsethanchiggers but its pretty good. The guy takes the time to set the tripod up for a clean shot for nearly every electrical connection and part dissasembly down to the head gasket, and then he details the reassembly on the 5vz-fe engine. I was pretty impressed and after watching it being done (I watched the whole thing and took notes) I feel a lot better about this being a DIY job.

I'm just concerned about the condition of the exhaust bolts, I don't need any of them breaking. I've been spraying them with pb blaster everyday now - the way I did this (liberally) this was a bad idea by the way. I ended up fouling the starter, truck wouldn't start and it acted like my battery was drained. I removed the starter and cleaned all the contacts on it, reinstalled and its working for now (fingers crossed). I have a propane torch and wire brush, i've looked into the tricks of the trade for dealing with rusty bolts, but I'm still going to be very careful with that area. My job requires a keen attention to detail, and I'm bringing my a-game to this project, but rusty bolts is something i've never had to contend with, any tips would be appreciated.

Also, I started a new thread. I'll be sure to update both when I am through, but look for the pics in the new thread if your interested in what I find.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1996-unused-for-4-years.398268/

 

Good luck.

 

Getting somewhere , see new thread above

 

Yip, ive been following it.