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New Heater core, still no heat

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas' started by natemoore2088, Jan 7, 2013.

  1. Jan 7, 2013 at 11:49 AM
    #1
    natemoore2088

    natemoore2088 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Nate
    Idaho
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    2" lift Pre-runner bumper Deck Plate Doug Thorley header Cherry Bomb
    I replaced my leaking heater core and have ran into trouble since then. The air only gets slightly warm, never hot enough to keep the cab at a comfortable temperature. Is there a way to bleed the coolant system to make sure hot coolant is getting to the core?

    Also I installed an electric cooling fan at the same time, the thermostat for that fan kicks on at 185 and off at 170. The problem is once it kicks on it never kicks off, I'm assuming this is because it can't get the temperature down below 170. I did a search and it looks like most people have coolant temps closer to 200. Could this be why my heater isn't very warm? I ordered a new thermostat that kicks on at 200 and off at 185 and hopefully that will help.

    Finally the blower for my heater is making a hideous noise unless it I turn it all the way on, then back to 3/4. Is there a good place to buy a new blower? Thank you. It is really cold here and I am tired of bundling up to drive somewhere.

    Nate
     
  2. Jan 7, 2013 at 11:51 AM
    #2
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 :POOPCORN: Thor

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    If the vehicle thermostat isn't working, you won't have fluid to the heater core.
     
  3. Jan 7, 2013 at 11:58 AM
    #3
    jaunty

    jaunty Well-Known Member

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    yes if the thermostat sticks open, you will be running cold and will not have heat. This happened with me and i also back bad fuel mileage. I changed the thermostat and voila back to HEAT
     
  4. Jan 7, 2013 at 12:01 PM
    #4
    natemoore2088

    natemoore2088 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I installed a new thermostat when I put a new motor in it a few months ago so it should be working. The temp gauge gets to right below the middle and never goes any higher, is this running cold? I will try a new thermostat because they are cheap though. Thanks, any other ideas?
     
  5. Jan 7, 2013 at 12:05 PM
    #5
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 :POOPCORN: Thor

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    Test it before you buy it. Just throw it in 185° F water. If it opens when hot and closes as it cools down...it's good.
     
  6. Jan 7, 2013 at 12:10 PM
    #6
    Tylerm5000

    Tylerm5000 Well-Known Member

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    Alcan stock height 4-leaf springs, greaseable main eye bolts, OME greaseable shackles, all energy suspension bushings, 2-row extra deep radiator, KYB gas-a-just shocks. ALL LED exterior and interior lighting including custom tail lights and blinkers.
    Just make sure you haven't mixed coolant types, ever. Mine created the sludge. It's okay to use the new stuff (Prestone any make, any color) as long as there is no trace of the old stuff.
     
  7. Jan 7, 2013 at 12:33 PM
    #7
    Rackster

    Rackster Well-Known Member

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    I agree with the advice already given. Despite the thermostat being new, it's possible that it was/is defective. Doing the quick test in hot water first before installation (or with taking it out for a quick inspection) should indicate what you have. I was also thinking that you might have some air trapped in the line...you may need to burp the system. Also, verify that your collant levels are where they need to be and that you aren't running low. Top it off as needed.

    You can try running a hotter thermostat, but do the research. Typically speaking, if you were comfortable with the heat at the start, then you probably only need to put in the same temp replacement thermostat. I recommend going with the OEM replacement rather than an aftermarket solution. I have an Ultragauge and monitor the coolant temperature. Winter or summer, once the engine warms up to operating temperature, it stays very close to 180 degrees (just takes longer to warm up in the winter). To get the engine to temperature quicker, you might opt for a partial radiator block in the winter months. Not sure how cold it gets for you there in the NW, but a partial block might be the way to go to keep the temperature near 180. The warmer the better when it comes to FE, but you want to keep the engine close to manufacturers specifications, especially if you are under warranty. Good luck!
     
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