New info JBL system lower ohms to increase volume

So after reading that link I just posted. If the tweeters in the dash are wired are wired in parallel do the door speakers and all 4 speakers are indeed 2 ohm that would be a total of 8 ohm. So lowering the sub to 2 ohm instead of 4 ohm decreases the overall speaker load by 2 ohms would increase the volume like I initially noted when I did my subwoofer swap.and since the front door speakers are wired directly with the subwoofer that I verified when I tried to go to 1 ohm just to check if it was possible. This explains how i got more volume. Not double volume but there was a noticable increase in volume.

 

I learned alot about the jbl engineering and kinda what great lengths harmon went to into trying to keep people out of their software. Risc software, debugging, sniffing traffic and they have a passcode just to get into the software generated by signals or tones. They made it super inconvenient to try and debug

 

It boosts sound out of the dash speakers and the rear doors with the sub wired in. The front doors are more, mid/bass. No real vocals now. The dash and rear doors now do your vocals. With the oem sub, the rear doors were almost inaudible. Sounds far better though, can actually hear vocals at 12. Might be in part that the 6x9s in front aren't bleeding. They muddied up over 30 because of bass. Wiring the sub the other way probably didn't sound as good since it was cutting the tweeters. Really only speakers in the truck that play vocals are in the dash.

 

I've been trying to find something on this for a while now and I hope I didnt just over look the answer somewhere else. I just put some subs behind my rear seats and I notice the vents on the rear wall behind the seats are making a lot of noise. From the outside it sounds terrible. The little rubber flaps are slapping against the vent itself making a ton of noise. Anyone have any solutions for this?

 

No easy option, those vents are necessary. And very sensitive to air pressure inside cab. I've seen people take the bed off to put stuff to block the sound and if you mess with the vents mlt opening your going to not like the results in the cab.I made my own

 

Same

(not engineer)

 

Yeah, figured there wasn't a whole lot to be done. It has just annoyed the hell outa me and wanted to know if anyone has found a way yet. Thanks tho

 

2.2 cubic feet of air

 

I've come to the realization that the stock jbl system is simply trash and needs to be entirely replaced. Going with the oem+ for now and a new head unit. I can't take how lack luster this thing is and how meh everything sounds. I hate it.

 

This thread makes me feel old. You guys are swapping subs and what not, and I'm sitting here thinking about how the sub eats up all the storage space behind the seat where I keep my straps and gloves and stuff.

 

Under the seat is where everything fits!

 

I've got a shovel and other stuff there too lol.

 

I can't decide if I want to fill my truck with speakers and put my stuff on a trailer, or build a trailer that is nothing but speakers...

 

Not to mention the cool factor

 

Sub'd

Thanks for this thread everyone, it helps a lot!

 

So. Are there 2 premium JBL set ups for 3rd gens? Unless I turn mine up loud enough to cause physical pain, I have no distortion. I've never experienced clipping, you definitely can't have a conversation with a passenger with the volume over 35-40, and my volume has never turned itself down.

 

Just ordered the Polk from Crutchfield. thanks for providing the info. it if needs more power might get a small 2 CH amp.

 

I mainly plays music from my phone linked to my jbl system. Sent up all my mp3 through a volume boosting program to the greatest pont with no distortion before loading them on my phone. Run the bass almost all the way up and highs about 3/4 and am pretty happy over all.Plenty of bass, good mids and highs and decent volume. It beats tearing a new vehicle apart, spending hundreds to thousands of dollars for a few minutes of 100 plus dB

 

So you have factory amp but better sub using a single voice coil with just the green and red wires? With the factory sub it still overheated when “bridged”? How is the head unit lowering the volume to the sub??? Just me thinking, if it’s a separate input, maybe those wires can be clipped?