New info JBL system lower ohms to increase volume

Literally everywhere I have read says 2 ohms, including crutchfield. So that is what I am going off of.

 

Do what we used to do in high school. Install these bad boys in the car!

 

The consensus seems to be that the JBL speakers are 2-Ohm:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/search/8829483/?q=Jbl+ohm&t=post&o=date&c[node]=186

 

Then crank it up and play the WHO "Don't get fooled again". With the primal scream really loud and scare the crud out of the lady filling up next to you at the gas station. Just telling the story for a "friend". LOL.

 

Ahh, okay, they must have changed it or something. Crank away!

 

Take those back home and put em on the book shelf.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-uA8p2...MIhb2HvvKS5AIVkh6tBh1WtQUYEAAYASAAEgJA7_D_BwE

 

If you used a multimeter on your speakers let me just warn you doing that can sometimes give you false readings.

To add to the OP’s post, on my 2nd gen taco I played some music with all the interior out and it’s amazing how little the rear subwoofer does. May explain why changing it out could improve the sound so much.

 

I measured mine and I'll post a pic for u too its 2 ohm and .... it's not like it worked before right when I bought it. It's broken brand new so if it breaks then did I really break it? Cuz I was about to drop 2 grand for the alpine halo but this just changed my mind.

 

2 ohm

 

I see a Crutchfield run on CV subs on the magnitude of kicker speakers in

3

2

1....

 

That's what I wanted to know too but if this amp and stereo is so smart it turns itself down when it gets used right? Why isn't it turning itself down now? Just a real question.. it sounds to me like someone tried to save money somewhere and changed the original resistance to save money or mis-communication. Plus toyota would never issue a recall unless it was safety or reliability related. Maybe not. Maybe by wiring it like this changed the entire resistance for the whole system and yeah maybe it will stop working one day but I can tell you I've had this truck 3 weeks and sometimes the radio is useless. You cant even hear it on the highway. It just makes so much sence after you hear it and compare it to what other vehicles sound like and just proof enough for me was the crossfader. Dude. The bass when you turn it down turns the bass all the way down! All the way! Like it is supposed to!! That to me tells me this is how it probably should of been in the first place

 

What are the criterion for the jbl sucks? Mine sounds great. The only issues I have are with the shark fin antenna, but with good inputs such as Bluetooth or HD, vs analog or XM, the thing rocks.

 

Dang, what kind of broke high school kid were you?

It wasn't about installing the best home speakers, it was about installing whatever speakers you had at home.

 

I agree. I originally disagreed with everyone's negative opinion. I really liked the bass and how it monitored how loud you could turn it without distorting the sound. But now it is over double the volume with NO distortion.! I live in los angeles. If anyone wants to hear my truck I will be more then happy to show. I ran at full volume for 2 hours straight and absolutely no issues so far.

 

As more of these get purchased by future enthusiasts we are experiencing a great influx of new ideas and thoughts.

 

I bet somewhere someone changed the engineering or safety spl limits decibles or whatever regulations or money but this is definitely impressive.

 

Checked temp of amp after 2 hours of loud music and amp was 104° with no fan or ac windows down and 85° ambient

 

Was the issue you were having just related to the bass/sub?

Pretty sure that impedance is a dynamic value...not ohms across a coil.

 

Has anyone did the amp bypass and had the sound cut out and in? I recently did a Phoenix gold xs speakers around with an aftermarket sub in the factory box anytime the volume is above 49 50 it cuts in and out...amp issue or factory head unit? Any ideas?

 

Meters read DC resistance. Speakers are spec'ed in AC impedence. They're not interchangeable and any correlation is coincidental.

Impedance, like resistance, is additive serially ie, two 4-ohm speakers wired in series looks like an 8-ohm load to the amp. Mostly. It's a bit complicated, because series-wiring a speaker will act as a low-pass filter to both speakers. Parallel speaker impedance, like resistance, is found w/ the formula:
1/Rt = 1/R1 + 1/R2 ...
It will be less than the lowest impedance device, guaranteed.

Mismatched impedance results in non-optimal power transfer from the amplifier to the speaker, and can damage the output transistors of the amplifier if the amplifier is being driven beyond its power dissipation limits, which is tied to its load impedance. The transistors heat up during normal operation. If they heat up beyond their heatsinks' ability to dissipate that heat, the transistors exceed their max operating temperature and smoke will ensue.

Mismatched impedance is not a problem at mid volume. Big problem at "11". Watch for magic smoke, keep an electric-rated fire extinguisher handy, and order 4 replacement output transistors from Mouser as spares.

Or, get an amplifier rated for 3X the power your speakers require to produce your idea of Too Loud and enjoy that trash you're listening to.

Isn't this interesting? I knew you would.