New info JBL system lower ohms to increase volume

Wounding if this would work. They also come in a dual 2ohm version

 

I think any sub with the same specs as the CV, bit shallow would work.

 

Infinity website

 

Yes that’s what I was reading but not sure if you need a single 2 ohm or dual 2 ohm for our trucks

 

dual 2 ohm and wire it exactly how the jbl amp was.

 

I have a result. I purchased 4 different subs and tried all of them with really fun facts. The stock sub is 2.3 ohms. So I tried the dual 2 ohm pioneer sub and it sounded close to stock, so I tried the cerwin vega 2 ohm and it was much more impressive. So I then wired the pioneer back up in 1 ohm configuration and played it at really low volume for a couple minutes turning it up slowly until it cut out but long enough to hear the Door speakers crackling- at low volume = vol15. So then I knew that the tweeters are wired in parallel already from numerous other posts and the subwoofer just affected the door speakers also. So back to the cerwin vega sub I noticed a big gain in volume. I could turn it up louder then before . So now I just purchased 2 more subs, a kicker dual 4 ohm wired down to 2 ohm and a boss audio dual 4 wired down to 2 ohm. The boss audio played highs way better then any of the subs. 40khz and up where the kicker actually added more volume and hit lows in the 30khz range better then the cerwin vega! Whole body was engulfed in the bass now. So the volume still wasn't nailed down yet until I was going over all the specs. Then I measured with my ohm meter and everything added up. The kicker is currently installed right now or I would post a picture but I have the owners manual and its 3.75 per coil. Not 4!! Cerwin vega was 1.9 per coil not 2! Pioneer was a perfect 2 ohm per side and the stock sub is 2.3 per side. So if we all know the lower ohms gives more volume and we have a 2 ohm set up and the stock 2.3 ohm sounded ok but was weak then a 1.8 or 1.9 or 2.0 ohm would obviously be a boost!!! Not enough to wreck your system as I have been blasting for over a week now and the kicker being the lowest of all the ohms and playing the loudest. It is at its limit. I can hear that the system is peaked. WAY MORE THEN STOCK. but the trick is to keep your amp cool. Being hidden away behind suffocating plastic where most lamps are out in free air able to take full use of its heatsinks fins and keep cool enough to keep the volume up. Toyota was aware of this that's why it is volume/tempature sensitive to bandaid this lack of planning/laziness. I ran temp cycles and found the stock amp with stock sub playing at full volume for a hour up in the 126° range and with the cerwin vega without a fan just with the plastic housing covering the amp playing at full volume for a hour 106°. That's a dramatic result with no auto volume decreasing. Tweeters could not be more clear. And just to try and have a control I used a mix of 3 different sources for input. XM radio, Bass tone generator, and spotify. Just to clarify about ohm measurement. If it is dual voice coil 2 ohm is the goal so if its dual 2 you can not wire it to get more volume. If is a single 2ohm output or two 4 ohm wires in parallel down to 2 ohms using only the green factory amp positive wire and the red factory green wire with 2ohms being the goal. And the kicker sub worked best. Did not bottom out in box and needs to break in to give a honest review. But I reccomend so far either cerwin vega or the kicker.

 

Now I’m a little confused. So a dual 2ohm stock woofer is wired the stock method means it’s wired down to 1ohm, right?

Like, I have a 2ohm dvc Rockford Fosgate P3 wired exactly how the factory sub was wired. Isn’t that going to give me a 1ohm load?


Should I have gotten a 4ohm dvc sub instead and wired it down to 2ohm?


Mostly, I’m hoping i have the right product for the most optimal sound with the factory system.

Also, added some sound deadened to the sheet metal behind the sub box/floor! Ran out of material before I could finish, it should be enough to add a little bass..

 

4 wires stock amp. No hooking all 4 up does not give a 1 ohm load Note that the red and black are wired both negative and the yellow and green both positive. This is not a traditional amp. Its different. The sub I tested reviews great online and I'm sure with the power that is recommended for the sub I'm sure it great but we do not have that power. We have around 100 to 110 watts. So we need a efficient speaker that can make the most out of the little power that's available while not trying to make the amp work too hard. Dual for ohms can be ran as dual 4 or single 2. And a dual 2 ohm amp can be ran as dual 2 or single 1 witch out amp distorts and turns off.

 

Dual 4 ohm can be wired to only use 2 wires from amp witch I found to be more useful. Dual 2 ohm did not perform well due to the lack of wattage available

 

It's true what they say. Not all heroes wear capes!

 

This would also be alot of the reason that people have tried the Subaru tweeters and had a good result. I personally have not tried the Subaru tweeter mod but I'd bet the ohm resistance is lower the 2.3 actual!

 

1st, I have zero problems with my JBL system...personally i think it destroys pretty much every other factory system out there (i don't go above 30-35 volume (i don't feel I need to).


Anyways, to sum up this whole thread, it seems that the main culprit isn't necessarily any of the components, but the ventilation of the amp itself. did you try just adding a fan to the stock system and seeing if that alone made enough of a difference? as in maybe cut a hole in the plastic and mount the fan upwards to pull it out of the case and to the space behind the folded up seat?

 

So....not to rain on the parade here but...

https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/217201737-Doubling-Power-vs-Doubling-Output

You're talking about a difference of less than an ohm, which is normal between manufacturers, even in the same speaker line.

You would have to double the power to net a 3db increase. You're not even close to a tenth that level of increase.

There's no escaping science here fellas, adding a fan or running a speaker at 1.8 ohms instead of 2.3 is NOT going to make a noticeable difference.

At all. Ever.

 

I think what’s going on here isn’t necessarily about just the ohms, but what how the amp treats the lower ohms.

 

Different year Tacoma jbl systems have different equalization settings. They have been trying to tune the jbl system for years. I've herd 2017 jbl tacoma have more output then mine. Mine is a 2019. So saying that your jbl system is amazing I'm sure it is because I've herd some that truly are amazing and volume is beyond what the speakers can handle. But the degree of difference between years and systems without having a control source become just opinion.

 

I am not doubling power or creating something out of nothing. You are simply reducing the resistance witch allowes more power to be drawn from the amp. And in such a discreet manner 0.4 ohms that in a system that has been obviously audibly augmented more then it probably should it is noticable witch is obviously a opinion but an opinion that has been worked on for hours and hours trying to r and d the heck out of this system. I'm not a speaker expert but I do know that the amp will shut off at 1 ohm load and crackle the front door speakers but at 2.3 its low volume and stock but in the middle at 1.8 and 1.9 it's obviously going to make a difference. Due to speaker manufacturing your obviously going to have irregularities especially with low end oem mass produced stuff. This is what separates low end audio to high end audio. Quality control. So having a opinion when not even being able to evaluate the situation seems kinda pointless.

 

That channel of the amp is most likely producing less than 100 watts, a change of half an ohm isn't enough to make a significant difference in output.

It's not an opinion, it's math. Plain and simple.

I have no doubt it sounds "different" than the OEM speaker, but there is no way that it could possibly come close to double the output or make a noticeable difference in quality of the other speakers.


"...A change of 10 dB is accepted as the difference in level that is perceived by most listeners as “twice as loud” or “half as loud”.

To produce an increase of +10 dB you need to increase power (watts) by a factor of 10....to get twice as loud, you need ten times the power..."

 

Every single sub has a sensitivity rating and a resonant frequency rating and a resistance rating They are usually quarralated. Higher end high power audio usually has a lower resonant frequency and lower sensitivity. But you cannot have a sub that has the best bass extension with the small enclosure and being the most efficient. "Hoffmans iron law" so since some of us have systems that have obviously not been as molested by toyota or jbl too much or those specific speakers during manufacturing obviously have a variable of ohm readings. Something is at play here. There are definitely too many variables to try and make a control. So the point would be if your stereo sounds good then leave it. Do what u want but I was affected by the jbl crisis and my jbl is dramatically quieter then my co workers 2017 tacoma jbl something had to be done to try and figure this out and I believe I have.

 

Mass producing anything will always have its differences in quality. Some Tacoma's are sweet, others are not. It has nothing to do with opinion but only quality control on the manufacturer. And the only way to not tear apart the amp and change mosfets or capacitors and or processors then obviously lowering speaker resistance would be more capable for the weekend warrior dyi person. Ever wonder why some subs sound so much better then others? It's all in the engineering. Read the specifications and match them to your application. The jl audio actually has a 8" sub I haven't checked yet witch fits dimensions and has a rms in the range *on paper more likely to produce better bass excursion for this specific application. Where boss audio produces 91db frequency 2.83v 1w1m so has higher spl then the jl but the resonant frequency. Is closer to 50 htz and would be more suitable for someone that listens to alot of rock music! So honestly let's not get all Albert einstein and emotional about this. If your system sounds good the leave it. My friends sounds better then mine stock. But if you suffer from jbl syndrome and want to try to improve your system. Try reducing resistance by replacing speaker with known verified replacments! Cdt audio advertises 2 ohm. Jbl/harmon/infinity 2.3 ohms. And I'm sure .3 ohm matters or they wouldn't be advertising it!

 

Anyone that wants to tweak out on some audio engineering wanna help out with any audio information regarding the circutboard in the head unit and amp I haven't torn mine apart yet but I will because I'm changing everything anyway I'm open to anyone that has already opened the head unit