New OME 888 Coil

Installed Kit:
Camburg UCA
888coils (assembled by "headstrong off-road")
Bilstein 2nd gen 5100/b110 rears
1/4" driver side spacer
Dakar Med
ECGS bushing
OME CB drop

Install took 8 hours. Front was solo , rear had a friend help

-After install even with my 1/4" driver side spacer truck sits lower by 5/8" on driver side, seems a little odd anyone have any input? I'm thinking of changing it out to a 1/2" spacer. Rear sits level L/R .

- After install I have some vibration from 0-20mph ( seems to be drive line) and again around 70 mph . The low speed vibration also seems to be at lower rpm's as rpms are higher vibrations are not noticeable. I have not re torqued anything yet (only 60miles sense lift) I'm thinking I may need 3* shims and potentially removing CB drop.

2017 trd sport double cab MT

 

Im in the same boat right now. Luckily I added a leaf spring center pin sleeve so if i need the shims theyd be easy to install. Are you going to remove the cb drop when you add the shims? I never thought of that

 

Remove cb drop install toytec 3degree shims and ecgs clamshell bushing

 

Out of curiosity, why do you suggest removing the CB drop before adding shims?

 

Good question. I talked to another guy and he left it in. Installed shims and no vibes. I was going to do the same. Unlessss

 

CB drop changes angle on the u joint from transfer case which ultimately doesent "need" to change. Using correct shim will fix the vibrations without changing that geometry

 

this image helps, some still use CB drop to fine tune minimal vibrations that could still be present. But with a proper shim that amount will be very small (mm) not a (3/8" or 1/2") amount

 

Ome should recomend shims instead of cd drop with their kits then

 

Technically the CB drop is not needed. To get proper operating angles the CB drop should only come into play if shims don't get your operating angles within 0.6 degrees of each other. For OME lift kits and Dakars, 3 degree shims are ideal. My operating angles without the CB drop are 0.2 degrees off from each other.

However, if you DO NOT have the ECGS clamshell bushing installed that replaces the shitty needle bearing in the driver CV then you should get that installed BEFORE anything (it is a must) otherwise it will be like herding cats trying to figure out why the vibe isn't going away...trust me, been there done that.

 

Do you have the specific URL to that forum where I can find these Tacoma owners? I have a couple of questions for them, that would be helpful if you can give me the URL.

Thanks!

 

Not to beat a dead horse, but I could use this thread's advice. I have an '18 DCSB TRD OR 4x4, with about 500lbs of constant weight—CBI sliders, recovery stuff, and a leer shell. I'm looking to firm up the ride a bit and net about 2/2.5" of lift + keeping some rake, maybe 1/1.5" or so.

Marie at headstrong OR was kind enough to send me tons of info on OME stuff, which I've run in the past, but didn't quite answer my specific questions. Basically, I'm asking help deciding the following:

- 887, or 888 coils paired with 90021 (soft) struts?
- UCAs (although not technically needed) SPC light racing, or something else?
- CB drop, or 3º pinion shims
- ECGS bushing, or wait till the needle bearings fail?
- Lifts on IFS narrow the stance, but are spacers needed with stock offset wheels?

Planning on running light/medium duty Dakar's


Thanks all!

 

Based on added weight slider / maybe a skid I would go with the 888 coils paired with a UCA as you will net around 2.75-3" of lift.if you have shell/ constant bed weight go for HD dakars. as for the shims/CB drop I wouldn't install any and see what happens then go from there. (Take pre measurements of driveline angles) if your mechanically savey adding the shims is about 1-2 hours depending on skill level. ECGS bushing I did replace during install but only because everything was already apart and it's a common failure. And stock rims work depending what tires you run. Anything much bigger then stock tires will need wheel spacers (1.25") or new rims (4.5BS -12mm offset) also larger tires can require fender trimming and mudflap removal. All in all just be prepared to spend a bit of extra time/money tweaking things and making it "right"

 

Thanks for the response! I'm running 265/75r16's and don't plan on going bigger. Current driveline angles have been noted. I'm curious why you'd suggest 888's over 887's? 888's are a newer product for OME, and the 5mm length difference over the 887's seems pretty nominal, but I think I'd prefer my lift to be close to 2" vs 3". As for Dakar's I won't hit the constant weight of 660lbs suggested for the HDs. Maybe it would make sense to start with the regular ones and AAL if needed? Did you run extended brake lines, or did the stock ones seem long enough?

 

I ran the 888 because I have sliders and skids so a bit more weight upfront and from what people posted heights are different and I was hoping for 2.5"-3".the dakars in my opinion wernt overly stiff and I don't have any shell or added weight. If you load up and have the shell might squat a bit. But maybe Dakar mediums with airbags also an option.My kit came with the breaklines and did install them . At full drop the lines were very tight

 

I installed 888 coils with 5100 and really like the ride. Great dampening / absorption and control. I recommend getting the dakars as the stock leafs do tend to sag easily. I would also recommend getting the MED dakars but I would install Air Bags so when you have camper/shell loaded up you can adjust accordingly. This is a great feature if you have heavy weight sometimes but still want a nice on road driveability.ultimatly you can add the airbags after if you need the added weight capability. I would recommend 275/70r17 or 33x10.5 tires you will need 1-1/14" spacers with stock rims (bora /spidertrax) hubcentric.

Only other thing I can think of are issues needing to be remedied after lift :
-needle bearing failure( ECGS clamshell busing is the needed replacement)
-driveline vibs( axel shims or CB drop)
You won't know if you have these issues till after you lift, but be prepared. And finally remember to get a wheel allignment

 

I believe the coils are all the same price . If you go to a smaller size coil you don't necessarily need UCA but they will increase over all travel and allignment ability. Also with less lift you might have to run a smaller tire depending on clearances. The UCAs are somewhat pricy but have added benefits. Honestly it's personal preference what your looking to get outa the suspension lift. 885 coils with 5100's and AAL is also a common mid range setup.

 

I ran the 887's on stock uca's for over a year ...it wasn't terrible , but did notice an improvement in handling after I upgraded . Have you tried finding someone to help you put the parts on ? A lot of guys will help for some beer .

 

Agreee ^^ 887 i would get uca's but that is preference and dependant on alignment ability. The 885 coil you will be ok with stock uca's.
Install is surprisingly simple if you can work a wrench and have a helping hand. Get coil+shock pre assembled and everything is direct bolt on

 

What setting on your struts?

 

Are you on after market UCAs?