New Rotors - Caliper bolts won't break free

So I've got new (OEM) rotors and some Akebono brake pads all ready to go on, but I can't seem to get the caliper bolts to break free.

I think I've read something on here that they (the cal bolts) are supposed to be torqued to 91 ft/lbs. Ran to Harbor Freight, bought a Chicago Electric 1/2" electric impact wrench (supposedly capable of 230 ft/lbs, still won't come off. I've been hitting the bolts for a couple hours now with PB Blaster as well with no luck.

Thoughts?

 

Are you turning the right way to loosen?

 

Well unless Krazie is whispering in my ears... there's a trigger side that says "R" and one that says "F". I am assuming that R stands for reverse and not Right

 

Two-part ATF fluid to one part acetone and spray liberally leave overnight to be able to crack it next day

 

out of habit i check its set to loosen...can be easily overlooked when looking at the caliper and thinking its tightening vs loosening. I didnt mean it to be a wiseass comment towards you.

ive used 1/2" ratchet with pipe extension to loosen. Something will either break or loosen...

 

@wilcam47 - didn't take it that way I smiled

I did go out and check to make sure it's spinning the right way though

 

Let some penatrating fluid soak for a while then use a breaker bar with pipe extension. You'll generate a lot more torque than that cheap HB impact.

 

X2...i had a craftsman impact was POS...it wouldnt even remove lugnuts...

 

1/2 breaker bar. Leverage is your friend.

 

I've taken the CE wrench back to HF, paid the difference for the Bauer brand that says it's got 1050 ft lbs of breakaway torque. Managed to get one bolt loose, hit the other 3 with more PB Blaster. If this doesn't work tomorrow morning, then I'll try a 1/2" breaker bar, but here's what I don't understand:

I don't have a lift, and my best assessment of the location of the caliper bolts doesn't seem to lend anything in favor of the breaker bar... so, can someone point me in the direction of how a breaker bar is going to help me (yes, I understand how leverage works when it comes to something like this) when the impact wrench isn't doing the job? #notamechanic

 

Seriously this is the answer. In testing the most effective penetrating lubricant. It works, and it works well.

 

Here's a tip I use at home.

Use the floor jack against the breaker bar removing the bolt. Full send.

 

Penetration lube has many applications...

Just did mine all around last weekend. Good luck OP!

 

Yeah I just remembered a key component of vehicles... they can turn. Specifically, the front wheels... and they turn enough that I was able to take my 3/8" DS craftsman socket & my 3/8" Snap-On wrench and put body weight on one of the bolts and get it to break away. ok, I broke the wrench in the process but now I understand how to get the breaker bar some weight.

Bauer will go back tomorrow in lieu of a breaker bar and maybe a pipe. And I guess I'll have to get in touch with my local Snap-On dealer to see about replacing the ratchet internals

 

Milwaukee impact.. capable of 1400 ft/lbs of breaking force

 

I just did all of the brakes on my 2500. Factory caliper bracket bolts are a crazy high torque value AND they use thread locker. I had to fully support the truck, put a breaker bar on the bolt, crawl under on a creeper, and push on the breaker bar with my foot while bracing myself against a cross member on the frame. I don't recall Tacoma caliper bolts being quite that tight.

 

Other thing you can do is turn the wheel to full right for drivers side and it will give you better angle on it. Then full left for passenger side.

One thing i do is have a 1lb mallet and hold the ratchet in place then hit the handle, in down motion, this helps loosen it too