New shiney paper weight

Unplug the battery from the truck.
Plug in all the coils, injectors, ECM
Put a good fuse in the spot that keeps blowing
Reconnect the battery
Turn on the ignition but don't try to start the truck.

Does the fuse blow? We need to get this clear before we can help

 

no I did not own them. The truck was running fine perfectly fine. I went to go to town to get mail or something. I can’t remember what got halfway down the driveway. It sputtered installed acted like fuel tried to start it again. it just turns over and over and over and over Towed it back to my shop open the hood cause it was -40 or so that day and I noticed that one fuse was blowing, and it kept blowing every time I replaced it when the ignition was on now with the injectors plugged in and the coils plugged in it doesn’t blow, but if I try to start the truck, it blows my mechanic is starting to think that the coils are getting weak and drawing too much and he’s never seen a vehicle in his life that he can remember with the injectors and the coils on the same 10 amp fuse. I’ll have to look up the specs for checking the ohms on the coils. I should check them

 

Just checked with key on fuse did not blow yet

 

OK so I screwed up, forgot to plug the computer back in before turning the truck on anyway so I put the computer back in turn the ignition on pop the fuse instantly I’m guessing bad computer

 

Time to load the parts cannon!

 

Hard to troubleshoot without wiring diagram and a meter or test light. Your description sounded like a fuel delivery issue, maybe a frozen/locked up fuel pump, but a quickly blowing fuse is a short to ground.

 

So coils plugged in key on it doesnt blow the fuse unless the ECM is also pugged in? Okay so plug in the ECM, turn the key off plug one coil in, turn the key on. Did the fuse blow? If not turn the key off plug in another coil. Continue plugging the coils in one by one making sure to turn the key off before plugging in the next.

 

Is your truck push button start or key start?

 

Depends on the system.
That fuse is powered by a relay.

If it's push start. the relay won't even come on until the start button is pushed.
And the ECM turns the relay on.

 

Again OP.
We need to know if you have a key or a push button start.

The INJ fuse is powered by a relay.
On keyed trucks, the relay is turned on by ignition switch. (key)

On push button trucks, the ECM turns the relay.
If your truck is Push Button, throwing an ECM at it now, is not a good idea.
You need to isolate the circuit to call it.

Then check at the ECM for a short (ground) before calling it an ECM.

 

Push button

 

oh as well, my mechanic who has a snap on reader I think is what it is OBD 2 along with my cheap one neither one could connect. It’s like there’s nothing there

 

Then you have more work to do.
That fuse will never get power to it unless ECM turns on the relay.
And the relay powers both the ECM (the IGSW input) pin #7 of E14 connector, and the Injectors too.

You need to isolate each circuit.
See what branch is causing the fuse to pop.

 

If the fuse is blown, there wont be...
The INJ fuse powers the Ignition switch input for the ECM.
The Ignition has to be on for the scan tool to communicate.
The ECM doesn't know to turn on/ communicate with the scan tool.

 

I've been reading through this, so from what I can gather the fuse only blows when the coils are plugged in and the key is on correct?
Everything else plugged in except coils and it doesn't blow?

 

Are you saying you cannot connect your scanner? Is the push button pressed 2x with foot of the brake pedal?

 

Go to 10:26 in the video. After you put that together plug it in and start moving wires around in the engine bay. This reads like you have short, bare metal rubbing on an exposed wire.

https://youtu.be/qSvTksadxiw?si=Ftk6XH9Q5LdlkZtI

 

I know its a short i have been trying to find the wire thats causing it i have traced the two wires from that one fuse to the fire wall so now i guess continue in to the cab eh?

 

k so update it was the ecm it had a short in it that would only short when power was applied apparantly electronic guy said pin 7 ? was the problem well ran good for about 3 days and now limp mode po355,351,353? passenger side cylinders anyone one wanna buy a truck ?fml i think the ecm is shot again giving no codes now and just error msg like last time thank god the ecms arent bad for price

 

I would say it’s unlikely the new ECM is bad unless you have something else shorting it out. Although the lack of codes doesn’t sound good. There is only one circuit common to cylinder 1/3/5 ignition coils. It is the white IGF1 circuit. It goes from the #14 pin on E9 connector to each coil on the right bank. I would check that and make sure you have a good connection to each coil connector and a good connection at the pin to the ECM.