New speakers/sub/amp and the spacial dilemma... a JBL story

Another piece of the puzzle...


The power write was a PITA getting through the firewall grommet. Felt like i was gonna rip the shit out of it, but very strong material.
I got the under hood LED on in this pic. Makes the fuse look like it had its own led.


Still working the plan for tapping the jbl amp for inputs to the new amp, but at least all the wires are rooted to the back now.

 

I think I need one of these

 

Me too!! That's exactly what I was thinking of for my fuse holders. Nice build man!! Really nice work. Can't wait to see it all done @Denk!!!

 

Nice write up. I started a similar JBL upgrade thread. Still waiting on my gear to come in but I have a plan for the JBL harness interface. It might give some ideas on yours if interested.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-jbl-upgrade-round-2.448377/#post-13118862

 

Thanks. My first real build thread. Ill be happy to have the music going again!

Ill give that a read. Thanks. Right now, i have some ideas on the wiring but nothing real solid.

 

@rob feature , @1sttruckguy78
Heres a better pic of the whole thing. The arm that goes down, where the breaker is mounted, has a tab at the bottom that fits under the foot of the fuse box and is secured by the same bolt.


A pic of my template.

 

So after researching posts from the TW pioneers and cross-referencing against what I found in my truck, I came up with the below. The only part I am still uncertain of is the sub wiring. I know it has two voice coils, but not sure which is which. I left out the 24-pin plug since that seems to be all the inputs to the stock amp. Although, it would be nice to know which is the acc power, so I can tap for remote-on for the LOC and new amp.

After a visual inspection of wiring:

12-pin plug (white)
-------------------
01 - violet
02 - pink
03 - blue
04 - blue/black
05 - green/yellow
06 - brown
07 - brown
08 - empty
09 - light green
10 - blue/red
11 - empty
12 - green/white

10-pin plug (blue)
------------------
01 - white/blue
02 - blue
03 - black
04 - white
05 - white/blue
06 - pink
07 - red
08 - red/white
09 - yellow
10 - red

4-pin plug (white)
------------------
01 - blue/black
02 - green/yellow
03 - blue/red
04 - green/white

And the final pinout when combined with other research. The 4-pin plug wires match those of the 12-pin plug.

12-pin plug (white)
---------------------------
02 - FL+ pink
01 - FL- purple
09 - FR+ light green
03 - FR- blue
05 - WFL+ green/yellow
12 - WFL- green/white
04 - WFR+ blue/black
10 - WFR- blue/red

10-pin plug (blue)
----------------------
03 - RL+ black
09 - RL- yellow
10 - RR+ red
04 - RR- white
08 - TWL+ red/white
07 - TWL- red
02 - TWR+ blue
06 - TWR- pink

*Edited for accuracy based on new information.

 

I have a 2013 DCSB that had JBL Entune as well. This should give you everything you need.

See the attached PDF

 

Subwoofer wiring is on the White 12 pin
04 - Green/Yellow WF1+
05 - Blue/Black WF2+
12 - Green/White WF1-
10 - Blue/Red WF2-

Accessory (Remote Turn On) is on the White 24 pin
12 - Grey

 

F*CK YEAH! That is freakin' awesome! Thanks, man! You just saved me so much grief.

 

I did this myself at first and then said screw it and went aftermarket head unit so I know your pain. Best bet is to get an LC8i and sum channels 1/2 (Front and tweeters) then us the two sub inputs as stereo on channel 4, LC6i doesn't have enough channels. The other thing you could do is get a Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.3 instead and use the line level inputs, that way you are set for the future and can tune the system as well. Either way you are going to need 8 channels if you want everything from the JBL amp.

 

I was thinking about the LC8i, but after some convos with Marv and reading a few other posts, it looked like the LC6i would be enough. Below is what I was planning.

Main Input: front speakers
Channel 2: tweeters
Channel 3: rear speakers

Then for the sub, run it direct to the new amp using a rockford fosgate high to low level

$11 Rockford Fosgate RFI2SW High Level RCA Input Plug, Speaker

adapter. Do I need to revaluate?

 

yeah I guess that would work too, saves you a few bucks. I don't know the quality of the RF H/L so couldn't comment on that. I am big on controlling everything. I personally started with the LC8i and then realized how shitty the JBL eq is and went to a RF 3Sixty.3. Eventually even that wasn't enough so I swapped out the head unit to, haha. Keep me up on how your install goes, I love watching the audio/electronics as I have been a tech nut for decades.

 

Yeah, I was really torn between going with a new HU (and all the great functionality) and sticking with the stock JBL (+all the other work), but I really love the stock look. I too want control of everything, but it's not so important in this application since I dont spend THAT much time in the truck (3 yo and just hit 28K on the odo). What I'm really saving for, and planning the shit out of, is the theater room in my new house. Plus, the wife is way more likely to approve the expense since she is an intense collector of music and video.

 

Nice, yeah I have been spending too much on my home theater now that the truck is setup (minus some rewiring). Check out Aperion Audio for home theater speakers. Their Verus Grand line is AMAZING for a pretty low price comparatively.

 

Definitely a skill learned by practice practice practice. Mine didn't turn out so bad. At least the fronts are presentable and the small screwups are hidden on the sides.

 

Well, after getting the carpeting finished and getting all the wires routed to the back end, I popped in the amp board and sub enclosure to see how things were gonna fit. The bottom seat makes a lot of contact with the sub enclosure. Once the sub is asctually installed in the box, I don't think it's gonna fit at all. I'll post some pics later.

I remember reading about someone moving the bottom seat forward with spacers. Anyone have a quick link? I'll search around some... I know it's around here somewhere.

Edit: Yup, here we go... https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rear-seat-rub-issue.64978/

 

Nice job!!

 

Alright, getting things wired... there is some confusion on how to properly add the inputs and afix the jumpers for summing on the LC6i. After a bunch of reading, I have come up with the below.

For separate factory signals (tweeters and mids in front), connect the tweeters to channel 1, the mids to channel 3 and the rear to channel 2. Sum channel 3 to main and leave channel 2 separate. On the output side, channel 1 is your front signal (summed from channel 1 and 3), channel 2 is your rear signal (remains separate) and channel 3 is your sub signal (using the front door woofer signal).

Does this sound right? Or should I be running the sub signal directly to the amp, ano not using one of the outputs from the LOC?