New to the Taco world.

Just traded off my 16 jeep Rubicon for an 18 TRD offroad. This is the first Yota that I've ever owned. Been calling it my Taco Turd. Anyways, coming from the jeep world, the Taco is a whole new ball game it seems like. CONVINCE me why the Taco is better than a JEEP. I'm skeptical of the independent front suspension over the jeeps straight axle. Anyone ever do any rock bashing with their IFS? I'm used to crawling and bashing on my jeep(s). My best guess is that "bashing" is out the window with the IFS, but crawling is still feasible. Unless i can magically afford a SAS. I'm looking into lifts with longer travel over stock taco. Anyone have any suggestions for a good lift? I'm not made of money, but i won't cheap out on suspension. You get what you pay for. I'm a diesel mechanic with plenty of experience in fabrication and suspension work. So I'm not afraid of a little cutting grinding and welding. Let me know what you all think!

 

Well, you have a good screen name and you can mod it to do whatever you want.

 

You've already traded for the taco. Doesn't seem like a good time to try to convince you to like something you've already committed to...

Anywho, there's thousands of posts here regarding lifts (budget friendly as well as not so friendly) just search away and you'll learn more than you'll ever need to know

 

Screen name FTW. Welcome.

Rock crawlin is the golf of off road. Welcome to high speed. Welcome to IFS.

Look at it more like “what?? Fuck those rocks. Drive around them as fast as you can”

 

Just so we're clear, i am a dude despite the name hahahaha. The nickname comes from my last name, Glasstetter.

Anyways, thanks all for the welcome. I'll get to doing some searching on suspension lift. I'll keep posted what i end up getting/building, when get/build it.

 

In terms of performance, the Tacoma is not at all better than a Jeep offroad. A stock Jeep is likely to outperform a ‘built’ Tacoma.

The Tacoma is “better” only because it does a surprising variety of things reasonably well. It’s not a purpose built vehicle. That’s what it’s strength is. You can drive a 1000 miles on the highway, with a large load of gear, to go wheeling on a somewhat gnarly trail, with all of these things accomplished somewhat well.

 

I had a 2000 Wrangler. I loved it. It was a fun toy, but was never a primary driver for me. It didn’t do road trips well at all and wasn’t the most practical for everyday stuff. My Tacoma has the bed and four doors and is definitely my primary vehicle right now. My current toy is a 1981 Fiat Spider. I don’t rock crawl, though. 4WD is just to get me to places I can do fun stuff, like trails, camping, skiing, etc.

 

You made a good choice.

 

So i guess it's just everyone's own opinion as to whether a Taco or jeep is "better". I've always liked Yotas, just never had one. Got a decent deal on my new-to-me Taco, and a hell of a deal on my jeep trade in. Can't wait to hit some trails to make my own informed opinion. I love the Truck so far, rides like a Cadillac on the road compared to any jeep i ever had. And I've only had it for 2 days!

 

The main thing to watch is your approach and departure angles. They are not in Jeep territory at all, and the 3G Taco bumpers are just plastic. Lots of cracked front and rear bumpers out there.

Other than that, it’s a great off-roader within the limitations of a pickup truck.

 

I understand that. Rocks+plastic=expensive disappointment. I've been checking out some aftermarket bumpers, skids and armor.

 

Start with the back bumper. That’s the first to go.

This was my choice for a replacement.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ar-bumper-no-cut-version-bravo-to-rci.585102/

 

Bear with me guys, new to the forum and haven't done much of my own research for lift stuff.

I understand that when you lift more than 4", which i intend to meet or exceed, that it will wear cv boots. One solution is a diff drop, but what about longer cv shafts? Would that fix the boot problem as well? Which would be "better"? Looking for looong travel.

 

You can’t get around the CV angles. Unless you go with a full “long travel” suspension, your boots are going to rub.

You should research “needle bearing failure” if you plan on lifting past 2”. There’s a solution for the issue that is well documented using the ESGS aftermarket bushing that replaces the front diff bearing.

 

That looks pretty slick! Does it work with the factory tow receiver? Also, have you ever seen spare tire carriers that would mount to the bed/tailgate?

 

There are a lot of bumpers that have a tire mount. Check out online. There’s literally dozens of options.

My RCI bumper deletes the factory tow bar. It has an integral receiver behind the fold-up license plate. Not ideal for towing often, but workable with a hitch-drop ball mount.

 

Ohh now THAT'S good information. Thank you Stocklocker. Go big or go home right? Looking to clear a 33-35 tire. I want to do it once and do it right.

 

These are the things you need to educate yourself about. Use the “search button” here or use Google and add ’Tacomaworld’. Tonnes of threads on all subjects.

Research:

- CMC “Cab mount chop” - needed to fit most common 33” and 35” tires that are not “Pizza Cutters”

- “4.88 or 5.29 re-gearing” - a lot of guys like to regear for 33”s and most need to regear for 35”s to recover lost torque.

 

4.88 for a 33"? I guess I'm wrong but i thought that seemed like an awful low ratio just to turn a 33. I know we're not talking about jeeps here, but i turned 35s with stock 4.10 in an 06 jeep. I would ask you why such low ratio, but I'll save you some "f***ing new guy" time and look for myself haha. Thanks for the tips Stocklocker, very helpful for a former "jeep guy" and a new Taco driver.