New TVS1320 MAGNUSON 3.4 supercharger available 30 percent larger rotors!

Gotcha. Makes sense, and answers the "why a new design" question as well.

 

Magnuson did a favor to the community with this new supercharger costing around 100 or so more over the old design. If it was for a new Toyota model it probably would be 1500 more I bet. The 3.4 supercharger has been a huge success from day one

 

I had the exact same issues. For the dynamic tensioner bolt hole. I bought threaded rod and JB welded it into the block. I was concerned about drilling into the block and room is very tight unless you pull everything apart.

 

I removed the fan and radiator to give me more room to work and there was plenty of room. I used a punch to measure how deep the hole was. Then I taped-off the drill bit to make sure I didn't drill too deep. After CAREFULLY drilling, I used (3) taps. The most taper to start the threads straight. Then mid-taper tap for the next few threads and flat end tap for the final tap depth. The 9/16-12 x 10mm SS threaded insert was the perfect fit for the new threaded hole and has red loctite already coated on the 9/16-12 threads. I used blue loctite for the 10 mm tensioner bolt. I had thought about JB-Weld too, but was afraid it wouldn't be strong enough or I wouldn't get things lined-up straight enough - good to know you were successful!

 

Yes the haltech makes a big difference but the 1320 makes an even bigger difference pushing 30 percent more air. I'm running a 56mm pulley from the stock 75mm pulley and the difference between the old trd haltech supercharger and the new 1320 supercharger with haltech is 40-50hp more.

 

Are there any performance benefits for moving away from the stock air filter and running something that allows more air flow? Seems logical to do it, but maybe I'm missing something or it might have a negative effect on the MAF sensor?

 

The truck was due for its 2nd timing belt change, and it’s first radiator replacement, so I decided it was also time to also get the latest generation 3.4 TVS1320 supercharger.

I had the 2nd generation supercharger and it was running great with many supporting upgrades including a Haltech standalone ECU and a 2.1 pulley, and it was making great power on my heavy truck.

The installation went relatively easy, the most time consuming task was removing 20 years of gunk all over the engine.
Replaced everything with OEM/Aisin….cam and crank seals, water pump and thermostat, fan bracket, fan clutch, tensioner, cam and crank sensors, all belts, new timing cover…then I checked and adjusted the valves.
I also installed a CSF aluminum radiator(fingers crossed it doesn’t break or leak), then finally the installed the TVS1320 3.4 supercharger. I’m excited to see the difference between this new generation supercharger from the old design.

Still have a few more items on the list but I’ll be doing those during the week; replacing the fuel pump, relocating the winch controller into the engine bay, trimming the ARB bumper and cleaning up the headlights. Gonna be a fun week.

 

Looks nice and clean, urd came out with a 58mm pulley just recently, too.
How did you adjust the valves? Did you remove the camshafts?
You will need to retune the haltech for the 1320

Valve adjustment is still on my list,

haltech and the 1320 kicks in hard now at the 2500-4000rpm torque window,
It’s not a turbo but has a bunch more power for sure

 

Yeah, I hope the 60mm gets me 10psi or so; I’m at sea level. If not, I’ll pick up the 58mm. I’ll be retuning the Haltech, but with the target AFR table set, it’s just a matter watching the AFRs and adjusting the VE table if there are large corrections occurring, then adjusting the ignition tables. Can’t wait to see what the power increase will be.

The valve adjustment was done while the cams were in place. Having everything removed made it much easier to measure and replace the shims.

 

At sea level 10 pounds should be spot on.
I would suggest the green series gates belt which is a HD belt and will stretch less. Some people have had slipping issues on the smaller pulleys with the generic belts. I just crossed 25,000 miles on the 1320 and no slipping issues on this belt.
Also the can gauge is as sweet a boost gauge as u can get FYI. 1 to 4 icons per page and 20 pages available and the simplest installation because it’s wired directly off the haltech with a small wire harness
I had my snout shaved with snpspeed.com and have a 56mm pulley

 

I sprang for the shorter Gates belt that URD offers with the 60mm pulley, which I believe is the same belt you mentioned. As far as gauges...my laptop is connected to the Haltech every now and then to check the numbers.
I do have a Haltech UC-10 dash kit on the way to me when the UC-10 displays are available. With the current sale on the Haltech IC-7's I might just spring for one of those and save some money at the same time.

 

Ok, the urd belt I don’t think is a gates because I sent him an email asking and he didn’t respond. It’s definitely not the HD green belt.
This is the green heavy duty belt number and it doesn’t come in a 4 rib configuration. So you have to put a razor in a vice and cut it down the middle and then you have two belts. This part number is for an 8 rib belt
FYI.
The alternator has to be moved all the way to the passenger side on the adjustment AND
the dynamic tensioner should be at the 10-11 o’clock position, NOT 12

 

I finished my install last month and had a different problem with the dynamic tensioner bolt hole. The 130mm bolt provided was too short. When I tired to torque it down it stripped the bolt - it rotated round and round without tightening. I chased the threads of the hole as instructed but the bolt only went in the hole about 7mm; not enough to get a strong grip. The hole was 20mm in depth so I bought a 140mm bolt and that solved my problem.

 

Initial thoughts coming from the 2nd generation 3.4 TRD supercharger with a 2.1” pulley and a Haltech ECU. Going to a TVS1320 with 60mm pulley. Keep in mind, my thoughts below are based on the following….the TVS1320 with 60mm pulley gives me 8.5-9 psi, whereas the 2.1 on the TRD unit gave me 10-11 psi. No changes to the existing Haltech AFR and ignition timing tables, and the ECU is allowed to trim the fuel as needed to attain those AFRs.

First thought was that the TVS1320 felt subdued, in many ways. The truck doesn’t whine as loud, the power feels more refined/linear, not as visceral and in your face as the previous generation. The previous version felt like it was ready to break the tires and your neck loose at anytime, whereas the power delivery on the TVS1320 makes it feel like its turbo’d vehicle, with power that builds as boost comes on. Different, but I like it.

Given what I know now, “upgrading” to the TVS1320 would not have been as high as it was on the modification priority list. In my opinion, the perfect time for an upgrade to the TVS1320 is when your 2nd generation 3.4 supercharger is ready for a rotor pack overhaul. I did get almost 80% of the cost towards a new TVS1320 from selling my 2nd Gen TRD supercharger; I’ll take that deal all day long.

All that said, a 58mm pulley for the TVS1320 is on order in hopes to get back to the 10psi of fun I became used to.

 

Money well spent for the new technology over the 25 year old design with 3 year warranty.

My dyno results were about 40hp increase, 1320 to the trd supercharger running a 1.9 pulley to the 56mm 1320 at 6000 feet. Turning much slower creating less heat and bearing rated much higher 20k instead of 15k IM hopefully that rebuilds will be much greater than 100k too.
I’ve stacked up 25k already on the 1320 and running perfectly

 

Absolutely agree. The truck certainly has more power with the 1320; the power feels refined, and makes the 3.4 feel like an engine that was designed with today's modern technology. Different from the free reving, high whining, and noisy nature of the older supercharger units.

With a market that still covets the older supercharger units, it is hard to ignore the minimized cost needed to switch to the 1320. If I didn't get as much as I did for my old TRD unit, I may not have made the switch...but boy would I have been missing out.

 

Just installed a 58mm pulley and was able to see 10psi. Having driven the truck with the 1320 in the last week….I am extremely happy with my decision to swap for the 1320, and it is 100% worth changing to the 1320 unit. I have a 60mm URD pulley available if anyone is interested.

 

Here’s a question that may be difficult to answer, maybe not.

I’ve got a second gen TRD supercharger that I’m in the process of refurbishing. It had at most 85k miles on it (how much the truck/engine had on it), possibly less, not sure if it was factory installed.

I haven’t bolted it up yet, now considering selling the MP62 and getting the 1320 just due to the simplicity it has over the older ones, sounds like far fewer fuel/ecu issues.

Any guess what a good asking price would be for the older one after a fresh rebuild? Rotors are in decent shape, think it’s honest to say it’s in very good condition once completely refurbished, but wouldn’t be selling with any parts other than just the supercharger

Last question, I have a nosecone support from @mechanicjon, any idea if they’ll fit the newer 1320?

 

The nose cone support will not work on the 1320 charger.

I got $3150 for my 2nd gen TRD supercharger, but I included a new install kit that was included with the 1320 kit, which made it much more appealing to potential buyers, IMO. There are a few differences (2 bolts and the spacer) but otherwise, they use the same installation hardware/kit etc. If you saw the photos above, my 2nd gen charger was in great shape as well.

 

I figured I might list it for $2500 with the nosecone support and possibly see if I could clean up the tensioner assembly.

The new charger came with the tensioner I take it?

Not sure it has any value, but it also came with an AEM FIC-6, the guy was halfway through a frame swap and he just left everything sitting in the weather a couple of years so not sure it functions