New version Locking Gas Door

To clarify, the kit is normally just the lock unit and the door catch piece. The wire loom, connectors and zip ties are left overs I'm including until I get rid of the extras I have to help clean up the garage. I didn't post that in the ad because I didn't want people to think all of them would include it.

That is how they started off but a lot of people asked about a separate button cause they thought it unlocked every time you unlocked the truck and didn't like that idea. It only unlocked on the 2nd unlock with passenger doors. I too have the tailgate lock and just tied in that and sorta preferred it that way but went ahead with this install to get the write up info and pictures.

 

No, sorry. I wrote over the old one. I didn't want to have two write-ups out there and confuse people.

 

You have a PM.

 

Installed the lock actuator, ran the wiring, installed the switch, everything works. Went to replace the factory door clip, the f**ck*n screw wouldn't budge, not even an inch. WD40 the shizz out of it, still nothing. Got persistent and kept trying and what you do know stripped the shi* out of the screw. Damn it!!

OP how easy was it to remove yours? Got any advise. If I could remove the screw I'll just replace it with another.

Went from this...

To this. Tried everything, vice grip and pliers.


Kinda PO'd that this small sh** wouldn't even budge.

As for the fuel/door spring/clip from another Toyota vehicle. It's a no go. Spring/clip is ok in size, but the door doesn't have any open notch that the hook can hook too. I'll probably end up modifying it to try make it work for our door.

 

Damn.......

 

I know man. Everything was going good until that damn fuck** screw.

 

Yeah, What he said.

I don't think I've ever had a screw put up that much of a fight. Mine was tight but gave up easily once it let go. It unscrewed freely enough to undo with my fingers. Is it possible the salt air added some corrosion to the threads to act like lock-tight? Maybe you could dremel a slot into the head and use a big flat screwdriver. PB Blaster has worked pretty good for me in the past. Might be worth a shot.

 

Thanks. I'll give that a try.

Yes it does look like it might be a little bit corroded on the end of the screw.

Where could I get that PB Blaster from?

 

I can't remember where I got mine. I think it was at all of the big chain auto part stores so it wasn't to hard to get. I think even at some hardware stores.

 

Thanks

 

Just a tip for next time: try to tighten the screw (or any other threaded fitting) first, if it wont loosen easily.
This trick has worked for me for years...

Jesse

 

Took the OP's advise. Used a dremel cutting disk, cut a slot on the screw. Damn thing finally budge. Installed the latch. Everything works.




Modified the spring/clip for the door. Cut the end, and sanded down the bottom. Without sanding down the bottom, the door seems to bulge just a little.




Installed the latch. I'll eventually replace that damn stripped out screw, but will do for now.


Overall, I like it.

Here's a short clip.
http://youtu.be/MHSgDQxvonE

 

this is cool.

bummer for those with a 13+ that doesn't have the rear cubbies.

 

Awesome. Glad you got it figured out and working. What vehicle is that spring from? I might give that a try.

You can go in from through the fender liner. A few have done it but it's definitely more work.

 

Yeah I was just hopping on to tell you to do just that, dremmel that sucker. At least you got it out.

 

Neato burrito

 

Does anybody know if these are SAE "Phillips" screwheads, or would they be Japanese "JIS" screwheads? It makes a big difference in the way the screwdriver fits in the head. Not a lot of folks understand that there's a difference.

FWIW, I used a STANT locking gas cap for a couple years, but it ended up falling apart. What happened was that they lock fell out of the cap. I didn't see any way to put it back together, so pitched it out. I had my stock cap in a box in the back seat with the Windex & DeIcer.

Also, it can cause trouble if it doesn't seal completely, resulting in a "Check Engine" fault code. I did not have that problem, but being aware of it, I made sure I got it good and tight. I considered running a cable release back from the rear doorjamb area (Access Cab '06), but decided it would be better to let some jackass steal some gas than to have them screw up my gas door or poke a hole in the bottom of my tank.

Be safe!

 

Nice job, Eric! Are you still selling the old version? Is the price of $45 for both versions? Will you drop one in the mail to Canada?

 

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