New Wheels For My Taco (pics)

I have an '01 DoubleCab w/ the 3" ToyTech lift and 285/75-16 BFGs. They rub the frame a little at full turn. I have a couple questions... I'm pretty sure the stock rims are 16x7s (not 16x8s), correct me if I'm wrong. I've added a couple of pics here of where my stock rims w/ these tires rub the frame, and of the new wheels I'm buying. Now here's the questions:
If the stock rims are 16x7s and the new ones are 16x8s, will that fix the frame rub? Since the wheels are wider, will it set the tires out wide enough to not rub the frame anymore? Or, do I need to order rims with a different backspacing? If so, what backspacing should I get? The new rims are 4.5" backspacing and so are the stock ones (I'm pretty sure, again, correct me if I'm wrong) Thanks in advance for your help.

 

that will good as hell

 

That will "look" good as hell or that will "work" good as hell?

 

true man idk how to help you i dont what the hell backspacing is and all that shit sorry dude

 

LOL! True! Hopefully someone on here will know what I should do...

 

Using a rim w/ the same back spacing that's 1" wider,will put the inside edge .5" closer to what you're rubbing now.Find out for sure what you have now.Rim width & back spacing.

 

That's what I was wondering. But isn't the backspacing measured from the center of the wheel to the inside edge? So if the new wheel is 8" wide vs. 7" wide, shouldn't the same 4.5 backspacing be measured to the same inside edge of the wheel? That's where I'm confused on what wheels to order...

 

Here,Check this out.http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=101&currentpage=106

 

That's the offset.Back space is from the face of where the wheel mounts to the inside edge(meaning towards the engine) of the rim.

 

nice truck, which package did you get for your lift from toytec? looking at buying the 3" lift but they have more than 1.

 

I got this 1.

 

I got the ToyTec 3" coil spacer w/ diff drop kit and Pro-Comp rear add-a-leaf. I ordered if off Ebay a few years ago, not from the ToyTec website. It doesn't have the replacement adjustable coils, it just uses the stock ones. It was only about $250 though. Good deal I thought.

 

get 4" BS amd you should solve your problem with the frame

 

First off, thanks so much for everyone's help. The website I am getting the wheels from (wheelsforless.com) Doesn't give an option to ask for a specific BS. It just asks what vehicle it is for and says the Tacoma wheels in that model are 4.5" BS. I'm not sure if it I can get them any other way... I think the Chevy wheels are 4" BS, does anyone know if the center bore hole is the same as my Tacoma? I know I used Chevy 6 lug wheels on my old '92 Toyota pickup before, but I'm not sure if the new Tacomas are the same...

 

Don't know about chevy wheels -- 4.5 BS should be good for ya.

 

I might just go to a local wheel/tire shop here and have them "test fit" some wheels and see if they work. I guess I could always get some 1/2 inch wheel spacers if they still rub.

 

Hey D... not certain if you still need to know, but backspacing is what it is, regardless of rim width. It directly relates to offset, but a chart would better suit for illustration purposes.

Let's take your 02 stock rims for example. 4.5 inch backspacing is their factory dimension. Your current tire choice mounted on stock rims rub the frame. Choosing a new rim that is an inch wider, (8 vs. the stock 7's) will do very little to relieve the frame contact issue IF you stay with the same backspacing of 4.5 inches.

A marginal clearance gain will come from adding an inch of width to the rim, allowing the sidewall to "relax" as compared to the 7 inch mounting surface... but marginal is at best measured in 1/16's of an inch.

Keep this in mind, going from a stock 7 inch rim to a new 8 inch rim while keeping the same 4.5 inches of rim backspace does nothing to move your inboard tire surface away from the frame. What it does is move your street side sidewall an inch further out, (toward the street) from under your existing flare. This could be an issue if you live in a state like mine, where no part of the tread can protrude from under the fender to pass annual safety inspections. Not a good thing if you already bought the rims. Don't ask me how I know this.

So, you need to move the inboard side of your tire away from the frame... and the only way to accomplish this is by decreasing your backspace. Choosing a rim with 4.25 inches of backspace is going to move your tire 1/4 inch away from the frame as compared to your stock rim. Likewise, going with the 4 inch of backspace mentioned earlier will move the inboard side of your tire 1/2 inch or .50 away from your frame as compared to your stock rim that sports the 4.5 inches of backspace.

Now, do not lose sight of that fender coverage issue... some, myself included need to keep the rubber under the fender flare. Your stock rim is called a 7, but only by industry measurement standards. Outside edge to outside edge provides a true 8 inch overall wide wheel. This must be factored into the offset rating. Don't panic... take a peek at this chart and you'll see what I mean -



Now take a look at how the negative and positive offsets play into your rim choice... another chart so to speak -



Let's use an 8 inch rim for example... remember, the 8 inch rim is measured from inside the bead walls. SoOooOo for width purposes, it will approach 9 inches outside overall. This is what we must factor to know where the tires sidewall will rest on the outboard side when installed on the vehicle.

If it was a 7 inch rim like your stocker, it would need to be factored as a what? Yup, you got it... as an 8 overall.

So an 8 inch rim with a zero degree offset is going to have what for backspacing? DING! (remember 9 inch overall) = 4.5 inches! That means that a zero degree offset bisects the rim down the middle. 4.5 inches going toward the frame, and the other 4.5 inches going toward the curb. Pretty simple now eh?

Look at the first chart and you can see how the Positive offset and Negative offset play into the backspace ratings by rim width.

A negative offset will move more of the rim curbside, giving that DEEP DISH look. Likewise, the positive offset moves more rim to the frame side, giving that shallow, front wheel drive rice rocket look.

All that said... we know you need to move away from the frame. You have a 4.5 inch backspacing on a stock 7 inch rim. You need REDUCE your backspacing to get off the frame at full lock. (Full turn right to left with your steering wheel.) You can determine just how much by inspecting the contact point, removing the wheel and measuring the distance remaining to the frame with the wheel removed. Having a friend assist you, (after first blocking and jack standing the vehicle for safety), will make this task even easier and more accurate.

I hope this helps you, and others, choose the right wheel for your particular application the first time.

BTW... anyone in the market for some really nice alloys? I truly do have a set that can be pretty much stolen. Remember this - Once a tire has been mounted to the rim, regardless if you drove on it, most, if not all tire shops will NOT take 'em back.

Stop by, we'll bolt 'em up... and yes, they are just leaning against my Kawi Brute Force

 

Thanks a bunch TacoBow. This does help explain the wheel situation a little better. I haven't ordered the new rims yet, b/c I haven't had a chance to get a wheel shop and test some different sizes. I think with a little measuring and clearance checking I'll just go ahead and place an order!

 

I know... and no, they are not the same. The Chevy hub bore diameter is smaller and WILL NOT fit your model year.

Your model year has a 106 mm hub... which is slightly smaller that 4.25 inches.

Tacoma rims of that model are hubcentric... meaning they align themselves on the hub bore of the rim. Good feature... but can prove to be a PITA to find the wheels you like with the specfic backspacing you want.