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Newbie All in One 60k Maintenance

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by ex_MGB, Jul 15, 2016.

  1. Jul 15, 2016 at 1:31 AM
    #1
    ex_MGB

    ex_MGB [OP] Member

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    Hello, new member. I had my son's 2011 Tacoma 4.0 6-speed TRD Off Road Access Cab while he was overseas. When he got back we did the 60k service for which I put together a google doc which I'm uploading below.

    I noticed quite a difference after putting in the Redline 75W-90 vs. spec 75W-85 fluids. Doesn't thunk as loud engaging 4WD and just in general seems more smooth. I'm a big Redline fan, use it in all my other vehicles. We put on a Fumoto oil drain valve and the plan is to run Mobil 1 5W-30 EP for 10k intervals. Anybody else tried that? 5k seems overkill for that oil.

    We also worked over a 1998 Nissan Frontier X which he drove coast to coast and back to pick up household items and save miles on the Taco but that's another story. He's back and we swap out Sunday. Bye Taco! What an awesome vehicle.

    Please advise any tips.

    <iframe src="https://docs.google.com/document/d/1R0M2UTkVpuC_RGDrx9Ui7bZK53hQeGc63pkGR-2C7Ik/pub?embedded=true"></iframe>
     
    10trdtaco and Arailt like this.
  2. Jul 15, 2016 at 1:44 AM
    #2
    ex_MGB

    ex_MGB [OP] Member

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    Meant to note that my method when changing out gear oils was to put a level on door sill while on ground and note bubble location, drive up on Rhino ramps, floor jack up rear at differential to get bubble same location and then put jack stands under the rear axle. BTW, I used Mobil 1 gear oil in the transfer case as I ran out of Redline.
     
  3. Jul 15, 2016 at 3:54 AM
    #3
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    Seat belt beeper, Cabelas (Weathertech) floor liner gray, Covercraft Seat Savers in Taupe, Protecta Heavy Duty Rubber Truck Bed Mat, Pop n Lock PL5200, Pace Edwards Full Metal JackRabbit, Wolverine oil pan heater, Scangauge2, afe pro dry s filter, Remote Underbody 4 Piece LED Light Kit (White) used as Bed light, DIY Washable Cabin Air Filter, PA15-TOY, 4x4 Illuminated Switch, full synthetic, Redline Tuning Hood Support, Smittybilt Nerf Steps black powder-coated
    Thanks 4 the tip - have to try.
     
  4. Jul 15, 2016 at 4:04 AM
    #4
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    Seat belt beeper, Cabelas (Weathertech) floor liner gray, Covercraft Seat Savers in Taupe, Protecta Heavy Duty Rubber Truck Bed Mat, Pop n Lock PL5200, Pace Edwards Full Metal JackRabbit, Wolverine oil pan heater, Scangauge2, afe pro dry s filter, Remote Underbody 4 Piece LED Light Kit (White) used as Bed light, DIY Washable Cabin Air Filter, PA15-TOY, 4x4 Illuminated Switch, full synthetic, Redline Tuning Hood Support, Smittybilt Nerf Steps black powder-coated
    Thanks for all the work on the doc. You must be a maintenance guy so just wondering why would you want to save so little and risk so much with a 10k oil change ? Oil filters are only effective for 7K at most - 10k is propaganda pushed by the EPA - BTW they are also pushing to get rid of all detergents in gasoline - wait to U C the effect of that.
     
  5. Jul 15, 2016 at 4:11 AM
    #5
    Lou Slink

    Lou Slink I like daags...

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    Nice write-up! Thanks for sharing. I will be doing this service pretty soon.
     
  6. Jul 15, 2016 at 4:21 AM
    #6
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    Seat belt beeper, Cabelas (Weathertech) floor liner gray, Covercraft Seat Savers in Taupe, Protecta Heavy Duty Rubber Truck Bed Mat, Pop n Lock PL5200, Pace Edwards Full Metal JackRabbit, Wolverine oil pan heater, Scangauge2, afe pro dry s filter, Remote Underbody 4 Piece LED Light Kit (White) used as Bed light, DIY Washable Cabin Air Filter, PA15-TOY, 4x4 Illuminated Switch, full synthetic, Redline Tuning Hood Support, Smittybilt Nerf Steps black powder-coated
    I do have another question "Do not use anti-seize on spark plugs, it will damage O2 sensors. Do not use lithium grease on hinges, etc., under the hood, it will damage O2 sensors." Where did this information come from and what do you use on the spark plug threads ? Spark plugs and head are dissimilar metals and can cause plugs 2 B "welded" in. What would you use for hood hinges ? Thanks for any reply and for all your work on TW.
     
  7. Jul 15, 2016 at 4:47 AM
    #7
    TexasWhiteIce

    TexasWhiteIce Well-Known Member

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    10k miles is fine for the oil. Even fine for the oil filter. You know, some manufacturer only require 1 oil change a year using synthetic oil.
     
  8. Jul 15, 2016 at 5:05 AM
    #8
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    Seat belt beeper, Cabelas (Weathertech) floor liner gray, Covercraft Seat Savers in Taupe, Protecta Heavy Duty Rubber Truck Bed Mat, Pop n Lock PL5200, Pace Edwards Full Metal JackRabbit, Wolverine oil pan heater, Scangauge2, afe pro dry s filter, Remote Underbody 4 Piece LED Light Kit (White) used as Bed light, DIY Washable Cabin Air Filter, PA15-TOY, 4x4 Illuminated Switch, full synthetic, Redline Tuning Hood Support, Smittybilt Nerf Steps black powder-coated
    To each his own. Manufacturers want to sell at $30k and up - I change my oil for less then $30 so ---
     
  9. Jul 15, 2016 at 5:12 AM
    #9
    topcathr

    topcathr Well-Known Member

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    how about a new cabin filter?
     
  10. Jul 15, 2016 at 5:17 AM
    #10
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    Seat belt beeper, Cabelas (Weathertech) floor liner gray, Covercraft Seat Savers in Taupe, Protecta Heavy Duty Rubber Truck Bed Mat, Pop n Lock PL5200, Pace Edwards Full Metal JackRabbit, Wolverine oil pan heater, Scangauge2, afe pro dry s filter, Remote Underbody 4 Piece LED Light Kit (White) used as Bed light, DIY Washable Cabin Air Filter, PA15-TOY, 4x4 Illuminated Switch, full synthetic, Redline Tuning Hood Support, Smittybilt Nerf Steps black powder-coated
    I made one (there's a link 4 that) and clean it every oil change. $$ once for the life of the truck.
     
  11. Jul 15, 2016 at 5:19 AM
    #11
    TacomaMike37

    TacomaMike37 Well-Known Member

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    10K isn't propaganda. Plenty of guys run that long, there is a guy on here who is over 350K and runs 10k changes. You are misinformed.
     
    Arailt likes this.
  12. Jul 15, 2016 at 5:28 AM
    #12
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    Seat belt beeper, Cabelas (Weathertech) floor liner gray, Covercraft Seat Savers in Taupe, Protecta Heavy Duty Rubber Truck Bed Mat, Pop n Lock PL5200, Pace Edwards Full Metal JackRabbit, Wolverine oil pan heater, Scangauge2, afe pro dry s filter, Remote Underbody 4 Piece LED Light Kit (White) used as Bed light, DIY Washable Cabin Air Filter, PA15-TOY, 4x4 Illuminated Switch, full synthetic, Redline Tuning Hood Support, Smittybilt Nerf Steps black powder-coated
    Oh well - I live in my own little world and I'm happy there. Thanks.
     
  13. Jul 15, 2016 at 1:06 PM
    #13
    ex_MGB

    ex_MGB [OP] Member

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    Long time BITOG member here. I know when Toyota had gear driven cams those engine were vicious on oil and prone to sludge. Mobil guarantees the EP for 15k miles, so 10K should be NP. I use extended range oil filters.
     
  14. Jul 15, 2016 at 1:12 PM
    #14
    ex_MGB

    ex_MGB [OP] Member

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    Spark plugs actually come with a coating of sorts. Besides screwing up your O2 sensor, you get a false torque value using anti-seize. 30k spark plug changes are no problem in terms of removal. Platnium plugs at 80k get tougher with the carbon build up. I always torque spark plugs to 15 ft-lbs, there is a real tendency to under tighten if done without a torque wrench.

    Lithium lubricant will throw off fumes in a hot engine compartment which if drawn into the intake will damage O2 sensors. I just use a gentle application of Mobil 1.
     
  15. Jul 15, 2016 at 1:12 PM
    #15
    timothom

    timothom Well-Known Member

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    Might want to put something in there about using sludge treatment in the oil. If you have cold winters it's usually a good idea every so often. I'm planning to do it at 30k changes along with the plugs.

    Basically it's a quart of cleaner (smells like diesel fuel) you put into your warm motor before you drop the oil. You run it for 5 minutes (don't rev it or it might bubble up because your a quart over full). Then you drop the oil and let it drain out real good.

    This is supposed to be good for the valve train and the top end of your motor. Gets all the goopy sludge out of there.

    Edit, link to the stuff:

    http://www.ruralking.com/gunk-5-minute-engine-flush-30-oz-mf3.html

    You can get it at any farm supply store or Napa, etc
     
  16. Jul 15, 2016 at 1:30 PM
    #16
    ausfahrt

    ausfahrt Well-Known Member

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    Extended range oil filters?

    I am not familiar with them. What is the difference from a regular oil filter?
     
  17. Jul 15, 2016 at 1:38 PM
    #17
    ex_MGB

    ex_MGB [OP] Member

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    At a certain point you just accept "good enough". Mobil 1 5W-30 Extended Performance at 10k OCI is for me "good enough".
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2016
  18. Jul 16, 2016 at 3:47 AM
    #18
    ex_MGB

    ex_MGB [OP] Member

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    I thought the cabin filter was an "add on".

    Anyhow, my son must have better hearing than me because he was bugged by a sound from the fan motor. He pulled it. I had told him to go to good bicycle shop and get some good syn oil, he instead got 3 in One. My theory is the original lube gets "crusty" (typical of all Japanese grease, guess the whale oil base goes bad especially high heat of an American summer).

    So, just pulling the motor we held it top bearing on top. Alternating between Mobil 1 applied with a "q"-tip and PB Blaster applied with a "q"-tip (squirt some in the cap to dip the "q"-tip in) and spinning by hand, it got worked in pretty good and when he put the motor back in, sound was gone.

    Note, we did not disassemble the motor as we could not get the screws loose as they are epoxied in place, just pulled it and oiled as above. I think the PB Blaster breaks down the crusty OEM whale oil based grease.
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2016
  19. Jul 16, 2016 at 3:54 AM
    #19
    ex_MGB

    ex_MGB [OP] Member

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    Yeah, "extended mileage" is probably the correct term. Check the shelves on Wally World. Bosch is nice and even Fram has a 15k mile version.

    I keep my daughter's 1997 BMW Z3 running, uses Mobil 1 0W-40 European Formula with BMW oil filter cartridge and is good for 15k miles per BMW. Now has 140k miles and no oil related issues or much usage. Now, admittedly, it's the 1.9 liter 4 cylinder and gets a 5.5 quart fill. The Taco is a 4.0 liter and gets 5.5 quarts as well but I'm going with 10k OCI and the engine is not really doing much high rpm loading.

    Fact is, modern synthetic oils are far, far superior to conventional oils 20 years ago. Of course, with modern CNC machining and what not, so are engine tolerances. Same goes for synthetic gear oils. Modern industrial gear boxes with 300 hp motors will run 24-7 for years no problem with syn gear oil.

    Pull a valve cover on a modern engine that's had a steady diet of Mobil 1 after 100k miles and the valve train will look like it just came out of the factory. No golden hue let alone sludge.

    I'm not sure people really appreciate what the Taco is all about. It's old school Japanese and designed and manufactured to be easily serviced, take a beating and run practically forever with just a tad of TLC and mechanical empathy.
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2016
  20. Jul 17, 2016 at 1:22 AM
    #20
    mavfox

    mavfox Well-Known Member

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    You forgot the most important one:
    -Check installation of driver's floor mat.
    :D
     

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