Newbie brake inspection query

I'm new to anything mechanical, and am just learning to do basic maintenance on my 2021 taco.

Got me a 3 ton Daytona jack from Harbor Freight after reading a few threads here (mostly saying that it doesn't matter too much). Wow, it's so much easier than using the provided screw jack, which I did use as a character-building experience. Boy is it heavy to lug up and down stairs.

I pulled off the front wheels and inspected the brake caliper based on a few YouTube videos. But none of them clearly show which dimension to measure. I know this is a super basic question and I'm probably overthinking, but after all the brakes are a critical part of safety.


So this is the dimension I measured (between the arrows), and at about 35k miles I got readings of about 8 - 9mm. Am I doing this right, and is this normal wear?


Here's another photo showing how I measured the thickness.

I'll also take any other advice on how to do this, and if there's any gotchas in the process. I learned that I need to torque my lug nuts to 83 ft lbs and tighten them in a star pattern. Also, it's a bit funky to get the wheel to sit properly on the rim and sometimes I see thin metal filings fall off from the lug nuts, hopefully this is normal wear.

 

Those pads look fine, 2-3 mm is a common limit for replacement

A few metal shavings from the lugnuts is OK, but make sure you aren't crossthreading them. Start them by hand before using the wrench

 

Your brakes are in great shape and you are measuring the correct place, around 3 mm is when the pads need to be replaced. You also want to make sure both pads are wearing evenly, yours are.

Did you get some jack stands too? Always use stands for your protection.
You don't want to end up like this guy >>>

 

Here is a good video to watch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzXjTrMu3lg

 

Thanks a ton folks, good to know I was doing it (mostly) right. I did not have jack stands, thought they'd only be necessary if I got under my vehicle; but I realize the consequences of the jack giving way are serious even otherwise.

I went ahead and also tried to take the rear drum brake apart to inspect it. This may have been a mistake as it was a bit much for me to chew. I chocked my front wheels, lifted the truck on the rear axle, and pulled out the passenger rear wheel. I then used the M8-bolt method to successfully (after some difficulty and having to nudge it around) remove the drum. The brake pads looked fine, somewhere between 4mm and 5mm, fairly uniform.

However I had a good amount of trouble when trying to put the drum back on. The YouTube videos I was looking seemed to be on replacing the pads, and they recommended tweaking the brake adjustment which I was not comfortable doing (especially more so without jack stands). I ended up using a bit of brute force to get the drum back onto the assembly... I'm not sure if this is normal; I am concerned I may have scratched the pads with the drum or such. The truck seems to be braking fine and the parking brakes seem to be holding fine. It's also moving forward fine in idle without the brake engaged. There is a sound every time I engage/disengage the brake, especially in drive (less in reverse) -- I don't know if it was there before or if it is a new development.

I did not touch the driver-side rear brake just to be safe.



Did I screw up, and should I go get my brakes tuned by a professional? Is there some way of making sure I'm not grinding my brakes and that they're engaging correctly? (I obviously release anyone who gives me brake advice on the internet of any liability, in case I had to explicitly say that!)

 

Not sure what kind of noise you are hearing but it could be you disturbed some brake dust in the drum. Check out this video on how drum brakes work and make sure your springs are pulling the pads back in place when sliding the drum back on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXMFVx8jJLU

 

When you have the brake drum off you can remove the accumulated dust by dropping it, open side down, on a flat surface like concrete covered with cardboard - you only need to drop in an inch or two, just enough to make it "clunk" and knock the dust loose.

You can follow that up with brushing it with an old paint brush and drop it again.

Don't breath the brake dust.

You might notice a rust ridge on the very outside edge of the drum next to the polished surface where the shoes ride. BTW the rear drums have "shoes" the front discs have "pads".

That rust ridge can make it difficult to get the drum off/on. You can gently chip/scrape it away with a putty knife or wide screwdriver - it will gouge up the putty knife so don't use a good one. A chisel or round file will work too or you can gently tap the ridge with a hammer to break it up.

Whatever method you use the key is gentle - you don't need to beat on anything, just work the rust ridge off. Wear safety glasses! That rust will fly around.

You can see the rust ridge on the outer edge in the photo below.



See that little bit of rust on the center hub where the drum slides on? Clean that up with a small wire brush or a bit of fine sandpaper or Scotch-Brite. Once it is clean put a tiny bit of grease or Anti-seize on the flange. You only need enough to put a slick on the surface to seal it and keep it from rusting.

 

On another note. When inspection of front pads and rotors. I pull pads, remove shims. Clean the back of pads, shims an also clean pins. Apply new brake grease and reassemble. This prevents the dredded pad slap.

 

Thanks a ton for this detailed response. This time around, I got a bit nervous (it's my brakes after all) and gave it to a shop since I had to leave on a trip the very next day. Teaches me two things: Don't work on your truck just before you need to go, and a shop will always charge you for repair you don't need.

But will I get into my drum brakes again? Hell yes. This advice will be very useful to me.

 

if the op is not a mechanic he should not be doing this, maybe take a class first or be a helper to someone for good amount of time that knows how to work on vehicles, someone might get hurt or damage the truck

 

I've been doing mechanical work for 45 years and never heard of this - WTF is the "dredded (dreaded) pad slap"?

 

It just means just removing the pads and slapping new ones in. No turning of the rotors or rotor replacement.

 

history favors the brave. There is nothing more admirable than someone diving into the unknown to learn and better themselves. Enjoy living in your bubble wrap.

 

Thanks - but not sure thats what hes talking about.

 

I assumed he meant that it was pad "shift", not "slap". Shift is the singular clunk you hear as the pads shift when moving from forward to reverse or vice versa.

 

Well know character trait of 3ed gens, the front pads will make a metallic "clack" noise, especially when applying the brake while backing up first start of the day.

At this point if mine didn't do it in the morning I would have to investigate.