Newbie Brake pad question

Are these pads shot or still ok? I've done alot of suspension work, but realize I know nothing about brakes.

I'm trying to trouble shoot a pull/ drift to the right that I can't seem to get out of my truck. The breaks seem like they are dragging. Atleast when I spin the rotar by hand I hear a grinding sound. Sound goes away when the pads are out, so they are making some contact, just not sure how much is normal.

 

With the caliper out like that, take a well-lit picture of the complete rotor, as well as inspect the caliper slide pins, and piston rubber boots.

Though typically a pull like that will be in the alignment and/or tire pressure settings

 

It's back together already. Pins looked fine and easily removed, boots are corroded but did not see any tears. I have replaced all steering and suspension components over the last year. Alignments all yield the same results and I've tried many, including some alignments intentionally out of spec to try and fix the pull.

How much should the pads make contact when spinning the rotar?

 

Pads should fully retract when no brakes applied. Gap is small, but not small enough to allow contact unless you are applying the brakes.

If rotor is out-of-flat, will contact when it should not. Rotors can warp, but can be machined to flatten out within limits. New rotors are easy to install.

EDIT: One time after my disc brakes had survived 100k, so obviously lighter use than slamming them all of the time, the rotors had warped just from 100k of constant low-heat exposure. No hope of machining, just replaced.

 

Hmmm...yeah I'm definitely have contact when fully retracted. Its not a ton, but there is drag and a scratching sound as they rotate. With pads out it was silent.

Any tricks to determine if it's a rotar problem or a caliper/break system problem?

 

Remove rotor. Big warping easy to see. Shops (NAPA?) that sell or machine will spin it using a micrometer to show small warping.

If not a warped rotor you could pull slide pins of caliper, clean off any debris down to pure metal and full regrease.

For pads not seating flat inside caliper check piston, or just get a new caliper that has no age-related issues.

Disc brakes are full of easily swapped large components.

 

If you decide to remove the caliper fully from the vehicle, cover the exposed line-end tightly. Also bleed the air out of the brakes after it is sealed again. All wheels must be bled to be sure no air remains as air-bubbles cause failure and condensed water will rot the seals from the inside.

 

Swap front tires from driver to passenger side and see if the problem goes away.

 

Probably not a bad time to change fluid anyways.

 

After switching tires, post your alignment numbers please

 

This has been with two different sets of tires and many rotations.

 

Here is what I would do
Pull the rotors and get them lightly turned
Put brand new factory brakes and change the brake fluid . Sometimes the calipers get water in them and stick a little. Make sure you grease the slides and pins and my guess is it will go away

 

I really thought this was you as well.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/pulls-to-right-after-alignment.815307/#post-29241568

Post an alignment printout before rebuilding your entire brake system. Entirely possible it's still in the alignment settings, and it was just a lazy shop like that guy just had.

 

They look like they have about 30% left. If you’re already doing all the work of taking them off might as well change em