Newbie with toy hauler towing question - be gentle! LOL

I have a 2018 Tacoma double cab that comes standard with tow package. Specs show 670 max tongue weight and 6,700 max tow.

Looking to buy a SINGLE axle (w/o brakes) 17' Toy Hauler that weighs 3031 dry, max 4999 and hitch weight of 400.

Do I need a WDH with sway control? Would this be sufficient if it is recommended? https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Pro-Series/PS49902.html

I'll be carrying full water of 32 gals, 20 gals of fuel, dirt bike, gear, food, water, portable Predator generator, two 30 lb propane tanks, etc... (guessing anywhere from 1000 - 1300 lb of stuff)

I'll be boondocking as I race Hare Scrambles with no facilities in the middle of cow fields! LOL

I'm looking to go this route as I am downsizing from a 29' Class C Toy Hauler (6-7 mpg is killing me).

I'd kindly appreciate your feedback, recommendations, etc...

My Class C is for sale...

 

I would definitely get a WDH. In any event it can’t do any harm. As far a gas mpg it will be better than what you are getting now but not great.Pulling that load and depending on terrain, wind and other variables your mpg may be between 9 and 11 mpg.

 

It kind of depends where and how far you're towing. Based on your name, I assume you're in Florida. That trailer should be pretty easy to tow in the flatlands. A WDH sounds like a good idea if you're going to be hauling it a long ways. With a Tacoma, I'd feel better towing that size trailer using trailer brakes. But again, if you're just towing it locally and take it slow you may not need either.

 

I agree with both earlier replies. My two cents:
1. Dry trailer weight is a fake number, always assume that the trailer weighs the max.
2. The closer you get to a 1:1 ratio (trailer weight to vehicle weight) the more likely you will need a WDH. Your truck is running around 4,000-4,500 lbs curb weight so it is likely that your trailer will weigh as much as if not more than your truck.
3. Trailer brakes are always a good idea.
4. $300 for a WDH and brake controller vs $1,000 to reupholster your driver seat every time you crap your pants after a close call...just saying.
5. This guy from this thread https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...wng-read-if-you-consider-buying-an-rv.328591/ is running a similar setup to what you are proposing.

 

You DEFINITELY need brakes on that.
My presumption, however, is that you are specifying the trailer details because you have a specific trailer in mind, and that it doesn't come with brakes.

Look on the axle near to the wheels. There should be a square plate with 4 holes in it. That is the mounting bracket for brakes, which can (and should) be added to the trailer.

Most/all axles of that capacity will have the brake flange. Even a class 1 boat trailer I have from the 60's has the brake flanges. I don't have brakes on that trailer 'cause its way too light to justify, but they are there nevertheless.

What you want to do is buy a hydraulic brake kit that fits the trailer. No changes are needed to the truck to accommodate it.
https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Brakes-sf-Disc_Brakes.aspx
*note: They have kits for 3500 pound axles, since they're the most common. For larger axles, you'll have to part it together.

 

Owners manual says you need a WDH if towing over 5,000 lbs. You'll be close enough that you should.

 

Would recommend a WD Hitch with Sway control. And would install some trailer brakes if they are not included already.

 

As other have said. Definitely go with WDH and sway control especially if traveling at highway speeds. I’ll take it a step further and recommend a tandem axel trailer with brakes on 1 axel. Yes tandem will add more weight, 1 more set of tires to replace but the safety and stability will payoff.