Nicked my suspension mounting bracket, am I okay?

Nicked my suspension mounting bracket while using a grinder to cut the bolts out, am I okay? The bracket is normally 1/16” (0.0625) thick, I ground down the lower quarter of it to approx 1/32”-3/64” (0.0155”-0.0312”). I think the weight of the axel assembly is press up into the mount normally...do I absolutely need to re-weld the damaged part of the mount? All input welcome thanks in advance!

 

I would, but I also have a welder handy.

 

Man, I thought when I read the title that it would be OK but kind of cringed when I saw the photos. I bet you'd be OK but I'd want more material personally.

How much 'wheeling do you do?

 

Yeah, nicked would be an understatement... I'd say nearly decapitated would work better.

OP, you're right that while under normal driving, most of the forces are going to be directed upwards, but as soon as that rear end hits a dip in the road or you're wheeling a bit, that leaf spring will flex down putting forces towards the damaged part. You're also forgetting about horizontal forces on the mount. Those leafs already sit at a slight angle to the frame and they may bend your damaged portion outward.

I really think your best bet would be to grind off this mount and weld a new one on... there are several manufactures that make these as they are a common issue, especially for rusty frame folks.

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/welded-toyota-leaf-spring-hangers.html

 

Better safe than sorry, I have a neighbor with the equipment and ability to fix it. Kind of curious about the frames strength anyway, Thanks for your input. I do get out on a lot of washboard/rutted our roads. No dedicated “wheeling” but yeah, Suppose the peace of mind is worth it. Where I live a break down can mean $12k helicopter extraction or a flatbed and cutting torch

 

I don't think that it'd be a sudden catastrophic failure but I suspect the tab will eventually crack. I'd do just like @AKsavanaman says, grind off the mount (which you will be able to do, I have complete faith!) and weld on a new one.

 

Thanks Dave...I'm using a Metabo grinder and its so squirrely, way to much grinder for the application. In fact, knowing what im capable of from past "experience", im surprised thats all the damage I managed to inflict.

 

Your leg's off!

No it isn't, just a flesh wound!

That's bad enough to merit repair.

 

I think a hack saw or maybe a Sawz-All is the appropriate tool, if what you were doing is cutting off a rusted spring bolt.

 

Tried the sawsall...my patience is thin...probably deserved it. Those brackets posted are twice the thickness and prep/install really isn't that much work..assuming i dont knick my frame. Focus on the positives i guess...

 

Fix that. Good luck.

 

If you leave it like that it will tear thrue in no time. I'd just weld a new hanger on there.

 

Ive been spoiled with an excess of material and human support, it'll get lined out in good time.
+1 for the tip AKSavanaMan http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/welded-toyota-leaf-spring-hangers.html

 

This image is concerning

In theory yea it's compromised since there's a designated torque spec for that thru-hole, now all that's changed.
But then again most of the force will likely be exerted upward where most of your mount is still whole. So you'd probably be fine

I vote welding it up

 

Yeah, that's not what I'd call a "nick", lol...

Fix it:

get new hangers and have them welded in.

You'll end up with much stronger hangers:

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/welded-toyota-leaf-spring-hangers.html

 

When it's just sitting in your driveway, sure, most of the force is probably straight up, but not when it's bouncing around on the road or on the trail and under articulation...

 

This is prime time to learn to weld. You can get a cheap MIG welder and get that fixed easy. I think you might be okay...but that 'might' is pretty scary.

 

Weld it up and then grind it flat like it was

 

Myself I would fix it when it broke.

Unless your into serious Rock bouncing where that wheel is going to hang in the air quite often .

I always use a grinder to cut those bolts off

 

That material isn't very thick. Seems you're likely to warp it pretty easily as you're building up the weld. I'm sure it could be done, but certainly not by a novice first time welder...

IMO, you'd be better off cutting the stock hangers off, and replacing them with some 1/4" beef.

If you're planning on doing suspension work, bumpers, etc... I'm not sure I'd go the "cheap welder" route. I'm regretting the Lincoln 125 welder I got (not really even "cheap", at least compared to a HF one, lol). It was a PITA to weld my bumper with it. Thinking I'm going to sell mine and get a 180 before I do a rear bumper.