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NJ B.S. Thread

Discussion in 'North East' started by JLink, Apr 24, 2013.

  1. Oct 12, 2017 at 2:28 PM
    worseisyet2come

    worseisyet2come Well-Known Member

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    I agree with 4lo to get the hang of things - it always seems to be a difference maker in those "on the fence" moments when you feel like maybe you're about to dig in. But I always thought using it long-term (the whole length of the beach) is kinda putting extra (maybe unnecessary) stress on the trans and transfer case. As far as stop and go, I prefer 4hi. Not sure if just me, but getting close to a stop in 4lo really causes a hefty transmission jerk or two before finally coming to a full halt.

    @Chux - curious, do you really find it helpful or necessary to air down into the 20's with your S/T Maxx's? My first trip or two on the beach I went with 18, then ~26 a few times, now I haven't gone lower than ~32-34... sometimes stay at 38 depending on the beach (Brigantine can be SOFT). If anything going from my Rugged Terrains to S/T Maxx almost seems like they dig down more, but still doesn't seem too bad. I'd never add risk unnecessarily, but I've just never felt much advantage going lots lower and I'm kinda lazy to spend all that time in air-down/air-up. If it got dicey I'd deflate in a second though.
     
  2. Oct 12, 2017 at 2:37 PM
    worseisyet2come

    worseisyet2come Well-Known Member

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    I'm sure there's plenty of other manufacturers that will serve just as fine. But there's definitely more to quality than just the aluminum grade.

    Having worked with red loctite in other mechanical settings, I personally would never think it appropriate to use it in a wheel/spacer/lug application. I'm sure it's not the worst idea either, but I'm no expert. But I have read some other scientifically-backed explanations on why it's a bad idea as well - one here on TW that I can't seem to find at the moment. That said, to each their own. I've read some others saying they use it and haven't had problems... I can think of worse things to put on there... :D
     
  3. Oct 12, 2017 at 2:47 PM
    Sub-Zero

    Sub-Zero NOOB

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    Why not red?
     
  4. Oct 12, 2017 at 3:14 PM
    The Hunter

    The Hunter Sailing the high Puddle's

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    It is
     
  5. Oct 12, 2017 at 3:14 PM
    The Hunter

    The Hunter Sailing the high Puddle's

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    But might be sold tonight Ill let him know
     
  6. Oct 12, 2017 at 3:22 PM
    HolyHandGrenade

    HolyHandGrenade NOOB

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    I wish I could find a more dark red thread locker to put on my spacer lugs.
     
  7. Oct 12, 2017 at 3:24 PM
    worseisyet2come

    worseisyet2come Well-Known Member

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    It's meant for high-strength, semi-permanent "locking" of an item onto threads - not for routinely removed/reseated items. When torquing in the first place, the heat from torque/friction is actually what activates the loctite compound. It changes molecular structure. Whenever red is used and you're unthreading a nut (or whatever you're holding in place), the nut needs to have a fair amount of heat applied to it to break down the compound to: A) loosen the hold, B) ensure it can all be removed from the threads. It's argued that having to heat the lugs over and over (every 5k-6k miles, in the case of a vehicle) puts undue stress on the lug / bolt as well as the threads, which can cause failure over extended time.

    However - even if that's heating is not causing significant damage - more often, people are not heating the lugs at all during removal. The excessive torque required to "break" the hold of the red loctite without heat (if it unthreads "easy" - bad news, you never used enough torque to have the red do anything useful anyway) causes uneven stress that will eventually damage the threads and/or the shape of the lug/bolt. This also leaves powdered red in the threads which - if not heated and wiped out completely - will also build up on the threads and cause damage when torquing the nut back on again. The thread damage here being not so much from the torque of the wrench turn, but the force of the excess compound being in the threads and having nowhere to go (forcing pressure on the threads).
     
    HomerTaco likes this.
  8. Oct 12, 2017 at 3:28 PM
    Fifthwind

    Fifthwind Master of None

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    IIRC Red was designed as a once and done, where the Blue allowed minimal reassembly cycles. FWIW the Permatex anti-seize is also a thread locker.
     
    stairgod likes this.
  9. Oct 12, 2017 at 3:38 PM
    Wheelspinner

    Wheelspinner Coco Customs

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    Too bad spelling isn't one of your many qualifications:rolleyes:
     
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  10. Oct 12, 2017 at 3:42 PM
    The Hunter

    The Hunter Sailing the high Puddle's

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    Whoops. I was doing stuff in the middle of writing that shit at Ant's... we dropped the IFS out of the 4runner last night!
     
  11. Oct 12, 2017 at 3:48 PM
    Wheelspinner

    Wheelspinner Coco Customs

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    IMG_2276.jpg


    We want news not history junior!!!
     
  12. Oct 12, 2017 at 4:00 PM
    Subway4X4

    Subway4X4 Shameless Copy Cat

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    Mine is maroon.
     
  13. Oct 12, 2017 at 4:02 PM
    stairgod

    stairgod NOOB

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    As is proper torque
     
  14. Oct 12, 2017 at 4:03 PM
    stairgod

    stairgod NOOB

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    You are a maroon.
     
  15. Oct 12, 2017 at 4:05 PM
    Wheelspinner

    Wheelspinner Coco Customs

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    Torque schmorque. I cross thread everything then V it out with a grinder and lay a multi pass weld in there. Could be why it took so long to change my flat at aoaa :cookiemonster:
     
  16. Oct 12, 2017 at 4:07 PM
    stairgod

    stairgod NOOB

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    Actually Loc-rite brand and most other thread locking compounds are anaerobic, meaning the chemicals react in the absence of oxygen. That reaction is what cures it, not the heat from the friction.
    And I agree with the sentiment of your post.
     
  17. Oct 12, 2017 at 4:08 PM
    Subway4X4

    Subway4X4 Shameless Copy Cat

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    I read somewhere that if you set torque on a fastener that has thread locker, you need to go 10% less. @MY50cal maybe?
     
    stairgod[QUOTED] likes this.
  18. Oct 12, 2017 at 4:09 PM
    stairgod

    stairgod NOOB

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    I don't remember the actual %. But wet torque can be significantly less than dry torque values.
     
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  19. Oct 12, 2017 at 4:15 PM
    V5ioV

    V5ioV My drinking team has a wheeling problem

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    That's interesting, because it's air/oxygen that triggers the drying process...no?
     
  20. Oct 12, 2017 at 4:15 PM
    V5ioV

    V5ioV My drinking team has a wheeling problem

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    Kinda like 1 part epoxy products
     

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