NJ B.S. Thread

Very 1st suggestion!!!!

 

Does anyone know of a battery that matches the yellow top in size that fits jn the Aato dual battery mount? 34 series battery. I can’t find a battery size chart

 

Found out my carrier bearing is completely toasted that explains the vibes on the highway i guess lol, anyone ever heard of this mod?

 

Who’s wants to fry up some spam?

 

Sounds to me like a worn shift rail. Suggestion, get rid of jeep and buy a toyota

Maybe go to a one-piece shaft to eliminate all that carrier non-sense. It will also save you a few u-joints to replace in the future

 

If he goes that route check out in gear transmissions and differential in manasquan.

 

Looking for any opinions/thoughts/insight. Would it be a bad idea to mount my sound dampening pad to my door with 3M mounting tape?

 

There’s a transmission shop in my area (2 actually) that is owned by a professional drag racer, guys name is Steve Gorman. I also know a guy who works on his pit crew that rebuilds transmissions in his spare time for cheap, you just have to bring him the transmission and he’ll make it Bullet proof

 

And put the drive shaft into a more vulnerable position, no thanks. Also a more solid carrier bearing means you’ll feel vibes more if you have any play in the shaft/it’s out of balance at all.

 

I’ve always been sort of skeptical of those, seems like they’re in the rocks more, but I also don’t have the money for it at the moment lol

 

if you do the math on the angle of the dangle, you'll find it's hardly noticeable. When's the last time you hit your carrier bearing when wheeling? I've never come close to that spot by where the carrier bearing was, if anything the worst spot is right at the diff aka the lowest point. If you will be paying a shop to rebuild anyway it won't be much more expensive to change it up. The carrier bearing is the 2nd gen wheel bearing of the driveshaft, aka the weak link.

 

Not the carrier bearing I’m describing. On first gens the drive shaft is almost entirely tucked up and out of the way, and anything that isn’t tucked will likely hit the gas tank skid first. It’s basically a good tester to see if you will drag drive shaft and you gotta really be in a predicament to tag the shaft. That would not be the case with a low hanging 1 piece.

 

hmm perhaps the first gen is of better design then. One easy way to tell is just take a piece of string from pinion to t-case flange and see the height difference. I doubt it would be much but if it's enough to drop below the gas tank, then I guess that would be a bummer. You could always build yourself a traction bar which would double as a driveshaft slider lol

 

I have always loved the way Jon set up Tim’s for that reason. Would be awesome not needing to worry about tagging the DS. The only time I ever tagged mine was when I left the spare DS at home

 

That's the way it usually works haha. I hit mine (2 piece) back at big dogs meet a few years ago on corum, all the way by the diff end. Had some wicked vibes on the way back.

I removed it when I got home to get it re-tubed and put the 1 piece on and haven't looked back since. Another good thing about getting it re tubed (whether one or 2 piece) is that they will use thicker tubing than the 20 gauge stock driveshaft which seems like it candy canes if you sneeze on it.

 

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Just pump your new carrier bearing full of black silicone (the kind in a caulk gun they sell at Home Depot) and let it dry 2 days. This has held up for about 80k and still going on my truck

 

The issue with the one peice is when you're high centered or the rear end is dropped out and the drive shaft is at a much steeper angle. Put your truck on the lift and then do the string check.

 

He sent me a video last night. In neutral it sounds fine, when he shifts into gear and lets the clutch out it grinds and doesn’t move. He called a local trans shop and they want $4k to rebuild it.

I found a place online that sells rebuilt ones for $2k https://high-impact.net/nsg-370-rebuilt