No blinkers, reverse lights, Shifter locked, and more!

I did check the battery terminals when I had the ground side unhooked and they looked fine. It might be worth disconnecting and cleaning them both just to guarantee that it is excluded from my possible cause, but I didn’t see any corrosion.

 

After looking at the schematics, it makes perfect sense that the brake lights work but the shift lock does not. Like I mentioned, IG1 feeds the shift lock control ECU. It does not feed the brake light switch. All things point to the IG1 circuit. Make absolutely 100% sure you have voltage on both sides of IG1. After that, you're going to have to trace out why the power is not getting to all the circuits. I have the schematics, but there's pages and pages and pages of them. Here's what I can tell you. The wires that exit the under dash fuse box that feed to the shift lock ECU and the AC amplifier are all pink and they exit through connectors on the back side of the fuse box. (Difficult/impossible to get at) The turn signal flasher is also plugged into the back side of the fuse box on non DRL trucks. On DRL trucks, there's a 3 way harness that plugs into the back side of the fusebox. Also a pink wire.

 

Back in 2015 I had an issue with several electrical components on my 2012 Tacoma. Directionals didn't work,and several other issues I can't remember. Turned out it was a Body Control Module. I wound up bringing it to the dealer for repairs. My vehicle was out of warranty by that time but the dealer covered it as a good will gesture. I remember he told me it was an expensive repair

 

Since the underdash fusebox is the body control ECU, that may very well be the OP’s problem.

 

Thanks you caribe makaira. If this is image is the case then I’m showing issues across both circuits. That seems that it would cause more issues than I have if the fuses were blown.

Also, my IG1 fuse is a 15amp.

Muddinfun, you said the fuse box is the body of the ECU. Is the ECU inside the fuse box case?

 

It was once for me. Replaced it with one from a pick and pull and that took care of it. I had different symptoms though

 

Therein lies the problem. You are testing the wrong fuse. IGN is 15A
IG1 is 10A

 

Oh my!! As terrible as it would be, because that would make me an idiot, I sure hope this is the case!

Excited to get home and find out.

 

Still need to find out why the fuse did its job...

 

Check all the exterior bulbs and sockets. Are the bulbs correct, like dual filament where there's supposed to be dual filament? Any sockets melted?

 

If that fuse blew and like my 09 those DRL sockets and plastic bulb bases get burned so every year I change the bulbs out before they disintegrate. Look there. Easy to pull out and see.

 

Sure enough you guys were right. It blew the IG1 fuse. After getting over my failure, I’m here laughing and thankful for all of your help. But what I still do not know is why the fuse blew in the first place.

I pulled my trailer wiring plug apart at the 7 pin connector and realized all of the wires were pulled out of the socket except the red power wire. My theory is that maybe the harness got pulled on somehow in transport and pulled the wires out of the sockets causing a short and blowing the fuse. Could anyone agree that this could have been the cause?

The truck was fine when it left the house and after filling with gas at the gas station that when the problem started. When you try to roll away and your truck doesn’t go into gear you know you have a problem.

 

LOL! Glad you found out what’s going on and admitted it. I’ll look at my schematics in a bit and see if there’s anything in the trailer wiring that could blow IG1.

 

A problem in the backup light wiring would definitely blow the IG1 fuse, and there is a back up terminal in the 7 way trailer connector. So, I'm guessing it went like this. You pulled into the gas station, had to jockey once or twice to get lined up to the pump. When you put it in reverse to reposition, it blew the fuse. Then you put it in park and shut it off. When you tried to go, that's when you realized that there was a problem. I'm also speculating that you underestimated the amount of slack needed in the trailer wiring to make a sharp right turn.

Ig1 also feeds the turn signal flasher, but there's also a 15A trn/haz fuse that feeds the flasher, so I'm guessing the IG1 feed to the flasher is just a signal and not a current carrying feed.

Lesson for the day. If you can't get it out of park, check IG1. If you find it blown, check the 7 way trailer connector.

 

Glad you found it . As seen in my quote I was a bigger dummy lol. I caused the problem . Posted because you SAID you checked ALL the fuses but I know sometimes when frustrated for get some details gets left out ( ME) lol


For me could feel the stress flowing out of my body when I realized how dumb I was

 

Came across this thread while trying to figure out why the hell out of nowhere my SRS light is on, no reverse lights or camera, no AC or recirculation.

I just installed an aftermarket rear bumper and new factory hitch. After wiring up the driverside bumper auxiliary light (spliced into the reverse lights) I checked it by turning the key on and shifting into reverse, success), hook up the passenger side light, go to check to make sure it works and this is when I start losing it (lots of highly stressful things going on in my life at the moment and this pushed me over the edge). I begin to check fuses and relays, nothing. So I cleaned up my tools and locked the truck up. Disconnected the battery thinking it may need to be reset (I notice my terminals are corroded pretty badly, I'll clean and check them out in the morning). I also remember I might have pulled on the rear wiring harness when I was tightening the bumper bolts so I'll check all of that out in the morning. I'm hoping it's something simple like a fuse. Also just noticed there's condensation on the inside of the passenger bumper light so I'll disconnect that light as well since everything worked and was fine before hooking that light up. Fingers crossed.