No head/tail lights or turn signals, squirrel chewed ground at J4

Yeah. You have multiple fuses with a voltage loss.
You can chase the dimmer issue. But you still have other issues you will eventually need to address.

 

Will do, thanks for all the tips, this should keep me busy. I'll report back tomorrow. My personal dome light is getting dim, time for a nap.

I think I got 11.4ish volts with a multimeter from DIM slots 1 to 4 and 2 to 4 for high/low beams? I'll check that again in the AM, I might have slot numbers wrong, doesn't seem right if 2 is ground.

 

I prefer to use a test light for power and ground checks, it puts at least some load on the circuit. Voltage checks with a meter on a circuit that isn't loaded isn't a very good test.

 

Well something is very wrong here...no idea what.

The HEAD relay #1/ground slot shows nothing (not zero, but blank screen/no light) when it is supposed to, using a test light with volt reading now. But (-) battery terminal to slot 1 shows +2.72V.

The DIM relay #2/ground also shows nothing, until connected to (-) terminal, it shows 9.68V with high beams on, and 11V when lever pulled back for flashers.

Also no power to DIM slots 1 and 3, but there is -12.3V at 4 and 5 no matter what I do with the headlight switch.

AND...the HEAD 1 slot shows -6.5V from (+) battery, only with HBs on, low beams show nothing.
HEAD also showing -12.3V from (+) to 3, and +12.3V from (-) to 5.

The ground behind left kick panel is good, but the clip inside HEAD slot #1 does seem a bit loose?

 

I'll have to sit down and digest all that tonight, some of those readings may be correct but I need to look.

 

Also, using the non-multimeter tester, all of the interior fuses are perfect, except for blank result on the TAIL 10A fuse.
The multimeter's 10.4 and 9.5 from IG1no2 and 4WD fuse show as 12.3 with the fuses in,simple tester.

 

One other odd thing- I got blank from (-) battery to DIM slot 2/ground on all headlight switch settings, but when I turned off the ignition, the HEAD relay started clicking quickly because battery(-)/DIM#2 were still connected. But now it has stopped doing that for a while, the DIM relay when installed only buzzes sometimes too.

 

How in the world do you have power on pins 4 and 5 of the dimmer with the relay removed?
-voltage just means the leads are “backwards”. Or that power is on the ground lead.

Are you sure you are not confusing pins 1 and 3, with 4 and 5?

 

Pretty sure I double checked when I got it because it made no sense, I'll check again.

 

(+) battery does nothing connected to 1 or 3 (front/pass side), shows -12.4 to both 4 and 5 (center and driver side).
The only reading there is from 2 is (-) battery to slot 2, high beams or flashers on, 9.7 or 11.

 

Ok. That makes scenes.
The headlight bulbs are a path to ground.
So that would be correct.

You need to check 1 and 3 going off the battery (-) Negative.
Key On, Headlights On

 

Yep, that shows 100% blank, no power.

 

It's testing backwards, there's 9.7V or 11V from (-) battery to pin#2, and 12.4V from (+) battery to pins 4 and 5, it's coming in from 4 and 5 instead of 1 and 3.
How can there be power coming from the headlights?
1 and 3 are blank no matter switch settings or battery connection.

 

Based on the readings I'm seeing this is looking like a Body ECU issue or and issue with the wires between the Body ECU and the relays.

I think we need to make the next checks at Connector IA1 above the left kick panel, Pin 29 (White) is the HEAD Relay control and Pin 30 (Yellow/Black) is the DIM Relay Control. Test light from Battery Positive backprobing those 2 wires should light up with the headlights on high beams.

 

Getiing a dark probe on both of those.

 

The HEAD relay has correct(?) 12.3V at slots 3 and 5, but is showing 6.5V for (+) to ground slot #1 on high beams, 0V on low.
2.7V for (-) to HEAD #1 at all times when key is on.
9.7V for (-) to DIM #2 when high beams on.
Why does 9.7 + 2.7 = 12.4?
The correct amount of power is divided between 2 ground circuits where it shouldn't be?

 

Well gona have to check things at the Body ECU.

I think we need to check those grounds at 1H Pin 18 (White/Black) and 1L Pin 7 (White/Black).

 

I cannot figure out which one is 1H.
1L pin 7 seems fine, 12.4V.

However I found this stripped wire? the red one next to green is maybe bad?

 

1H is the big connector on the backside of the box.

That looks like an aftermarket alarm/remote start, we need to see what all thats tapped into as that could be causing our issues.

 

When you locked your doors, did your head lights ever flash?

I have a weird suspicion that there may be other things tapped into the circuit.
And some aftermarket alarms use the headlights in the system.