1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

no low end power in high mileage 3.4L

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by JadXtreme, Aug 1, 2010.

  1. Aug 1, 2010 at 11:18 AM
    #1
    JadXtreme

    JadXtreme [OP] Active Member

    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2009
    Member:
    #21850
    Messages:
    25
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jamie
    Bladen County, NC
    Vehicle:
    98 green 4wd ext cab taco. v6 auto
    black headlights/park lights, black bumper, clear turn signals, black euro taillights, Sony cd player, 30 9.50s Federal all terrain tires on stock wheels
    My Tacoma has ALOT of miles on it and it is original except for a water pump and timing belt twice. The time that I changed the timing belt (2nd in lifetime for truck), was around 315K or so and I got the timing off just a bit. Well the truck would still run but just not as good as it was running. I drove it like that for probably 2 or 3 months and put probably around 4K or 5K miles on the truck like with it in that state. I decided to recover some mileage and power, that I would go back in there and get the timing right on it. When I had the front off and I reset the timing as best as I could using the marks on a replacement belt.

    The truck ran a whole lot better and I got my gas mileage back, but the power has never been the same. My truck is a v6 automatic and when I punch it, it used to have a problem with traction, now it goes but it lags on till the rpms rise and then it kinda surges with good power.

    This truck used to have a whole lot more power than what it has now. I don't think that driving with the timing off like that effected the power now since I got the timing straightened out. I had a 93 s-10, once upon a time, and drove around with the timing off on it for probably 6 months. I got a timing light, set the timing, and that truck became a power house (4.3TBI V6).

    I think that the truck's sensors are just getting old. Sometimes the check engine light will come on and the truck will idle rough. Then the light will go away and the truck runs fine. Sometimes, the SES light comes on and will stay on for days, and then go off again with no change in the way that it runs.

    It isn't a big deal, the truck is pretty good on gas, and I kinda need to be easy on it and not concerned with the power as long as it runs good and doesn't burn or drip anything. I was just wondering if anyone has had the same experience with theirs and what they did to fix it.
     
  2. Aug 1, 2010 at 12:04 PM
    #2
    isu2014

    isu2014 RAT Products

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2010
    Member:
    #35140
    Messages:
    12,628
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ryan
    Farmington, MN
    Vehicle:
    01 SUPERCHARGED TRD OR MANUAL 4x4 V6
    View the build. Too much to list.
    Might want to clean the throttle body, intake, and put a new intake manifold gasket on it and clean all the carbon build up out with some seafoam through the brake booster vacuum line.
     
  3. Aug 1, 2010 at 7:18 PM
    #3
    skytower

    skytower Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2010
    Member:
    #38505
    Messages:
    3,221
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dave
    virginia
    Vehicle:
    08 Tacoma 4x4
    Hitch and wiring, aux back-up light, rear strobe lights, radio and underseat sub.
    First place I'd start is finding out what code you're getting. Then check filter, plugs, wires, clean TB and sensor. Check for cracked vaccum lines with carb cleaner. Change in rpm=leaky vac line.
     
  4. Aug 1, 2010 at 7:26 PM
    #4
    desertdude59

    desertdude59 CRAZY 4WHEELER

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2008
    Member:
    #11966
    Messages:
    1,094
    Gender:
    Male
    From the Mojave desert now in Wild and Wonderful W
    Vehicle:
    1991 toyota 4x4 sr5-lost but not forgotten
    4" lift after market front bumper bed mount lightbar/roll bar (4)6" kc's on the roll bar (2) kc flat back bumper mounts f/r gears for the 33's

    I'd almost bet the code is for the knock sensor. Especially if your engine runs rough. If your timing is off then it will throw a code and retard the timing so you don't damage the engine.
     
  5. Aug 1, 2010 at 10:11 PM
    #5
    ETaco23

    ETaco23 Marshall offroad Fabrication

    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2008
    Member:
    #4544
    Messages:
    5,061
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Evan
    PNW
    Vehicle:
    13' Pyrite Mica TRD Offroad DCSB 4x4
    Color Match Grille, Bed mat, Bed Extender, OME lift and 285 BFG KO2, Spidertrax spacers, Snugtop Canopy, and my "Marshall Fabrication" Rock Sliders.
    Yeah, ide say sensors too. MAF and o2's are the ones that usually go first, and cleaning your Throttle body and seafoaming would help alot too. and then maybe the Deckplate mod and AFE filter. :)
     
  6. Aug 1, 2010 at 10:23 PM
    #6
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2010
    Member:
    #28588
    Messages:
    3,061
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Joe
    Central Coast, CA
    Vehicle:
    06 4x4 Off Road Access Cab v6 6spd
    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2
    At over 300k I would check the compression first. No sense in going crazy chasing an electronics issue that might not even exist.
     
To Top