No no no

Naturally on ifs kits you will get more bump travel on 4wd because of the camber change actually helps the outer joint angle but make it worse on the droop side. Diff drop might help a little bit but then you have a diff hanging below the frame which isn't good either.

 

To gain travel in a +2 kit I would do vertical outer uniballs...fabbed spindle and run rcv dual cv axles.... pretty much the only way to gain travel numbers without going wider

 

Your right I don’t know much about it, but I do trust my buddies that are designing the kit a lot. Also I am not sensitive dude say what you want honestly. Have a good day man

 

Agreed on this...one of the mods himself had quite an experience on this @mjp2. Considering LT is intended for the "faster" folks, diff drops can be hazardous at speed.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/remove-the-differential-drop-on-your-05-tacoma.118545/

 

Any predictions of what you would expect to gain with this approach on a +2?

 

I was thinking just in terms of the basic geometry. Again, I haven't seen these kits in person so I may be wrong on this but it seems like the cv angles at full bump are, for example, only 15 degrees while at droop they are near 45 degrees and basically maxed out. If you just moved the differential down in order to split that difference evenly you'd be able to increase travel at both ends.

 

I will just have to see what they come up with Cheers man have a good weekend

 

Look when it all comes down to it I am not sure of numbers yet, but they are going to charge some things up and try some different stuff like I said to make the best numbers they can safely wile still using 4wd. Thanks to everyone that has made there comments hope to post updates soon!

 

The relative joint angle on any stock cv is around 21-23* Before binding and is safe to run without breaking. On long travel kits the travel split really isn't too far off probably 60/40 ratio if setup correctly... bump travel is kinda where it's at anyway for soaking up the hits. And for a comparison like a 930 cv joint u get like 28* on a plunging joint and like 4O on a fixed one. Then u joints can handle like 35*?

 

I see, well I stand corrected. Thanks for clearing that up, I was always under the impression there was a lot of down travel left on the table with respect to usable cv angles.

 

Nobody said anything except what they know that you don't yet.

You're the one who has issue with it, not me/anyone else. Just pointing out you don't realize the capabilities or skill of the people you're saying don't have a clue.

No hate here.

 

All things considered from the convo so far, I don't think he was discrediting basicbiker, but just saying that another approach could be possible. I think after the collaboration discussed so far those avenues might not be as obtainable as one might think, but the OP doesn't sound salty about the info so far.

 

I just want to riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiide in my tacoooo

​

 

I am not saying that others don’t have valid points or am I mad in anyway shape or form. This is a forum for discussion that’s all. No hurt feels lol

 

Haha me to I can’t wait to get her back and hit some dirt! Have a good weekend man

 

Not salty, just dismissive. Anyway.. point being:

In the end we all want to see this build and how it performs, especially if it helps someone else wanting to do this same type of suspension swap.

I linked this build to a thread yesterday when a guy signed up to ask specificallty about the challenges of DB --> LT. The more info sharing the better, seems like!

Hopefully the other guy shows up and follows along too.

 

I can believe that!!! You also brother ​

 

Exactly... that company based of thier website can come up with sumthin cool for sure hope to see it

 

I NEEEEED YOUR LIKES BRO.

 

Yea man I hope he sticks with one or the other...stacking both on scares me.