No-Slip HELP!!!

yeah, i'll try that......

 

I don't think the gear oil will make that big of a difference. I used Walmart gear oil on with my lockers and to break in my new gears. Didn't feel like draining the expensive stuff after 500 mi.

 

hmmmmmm.............

to the ones that have installed the No-Slip or similar (lock right), i'm thinking that step number 12 "Verify gaps in coupler teeth are positioned within gaps in synchro ring" (http://www.offroaders.com/tech/Powe...of_Open_Differential_Parts_steps_6_to_11) may have been wrong on one of the couplers.

can this be a posibility because one side can engage/disengage while the other doesn't???

 

A definite possibility!

 

yeah, i was reading and thinking and reading and thinking and damm, that just might be it............

only way to find out.........i'm going back in there......!!!!!!

 

That really blows man.

 

well.........TOOK EVERYTHING OUT AGAIN!!!.....THIS WILL BE MY 3RD TIME DOING THIS!!!!........HAHA

upon inspecting the gaps in the coupler, i noticed that the gaps on the coupler that is supposedly bad and CLUNKING, is off!!!.......>>>called richmond support and NADA!!!

so.......i just aligned them the same as the one on the other coupler, which is supposedly the "NON CLUNKING" one.

reassembled them and all the teeth lines up and meshes up. *note*>>>all the teeth still lined up as well when the supposedly "gaps" were off before. they still are aligned now after i adjusted the gaps on the synchro ring.

just need some thoughts and verification from y'alls before throwing her back on there>>>>>>DON'T WANT TO DO THIS A 4TH TIME!!!

P.S.....i don't see the "verification" gaps anymore on the couplers so kinda in the dark on this one....need inputs...

 

Are you talking about sticking the paddle in the gap in the syncro teeth (see pic below)

**Picture was labeled wrong sorry**

 

Here's a better pic that is labeled and may aide discussion:

 

no, i'm talking about the synchro ring that is on the coupler...

in step 12 of the install booklet, it tells to check the gaps.

well, the gaps were off on one of the coupler.......and yeah, the one that has been CLUNKING the whole time.

i just aligned the gaps the same as the "NON CLUNKING" one and reassembled her.

i think this should be it.......i'm gonna bolt it back up and go for a test run.......

 

Hope that's it. I sent a PM with my number if you get stuck again.

 

did a test run......STILL CLUNKS!!!.....

i'm not even gasing it and it CLUNKS on left turns!!! same deal as before, it doesn't CLUNK as much, or at all, when making right-hand turns.

from a stand-still, i've tried to drive very slowly making a left-hand turn, like a gramma, and the thing still clunks!!!

same symptom, it's trying hard to disengage when i'm making left hand turns from a stand-still. while coasting and making left turns, it does disengage and i can feel/hear it.

NOW, I KNOW THAT I HAVE INSTALLED IT CORRECTLY!!! i'll wait/drive and see if it gets any better. if not, then i'll go back to open.......

but, what can it be???

i'm thinking about it and, could it be the rear driver's side brakes engaging???......i did notice that when taking out the rear axles, the drum on the driver's side rear was harder to remove; but the passenger rear drum slid off with a light tapping of a mallot.

any more suggestions???

 

That could be the problem, did you bleed your brakes?

 

well.......after tire rotation, bleeding of the brakes, tire pressure checks, and adjustment of the brake shoes, THE DAMN THING STILL CLUNKS!!!.....although it might have gotten a bit better...?

same deal, VERY LOUD CLUNK ON LEFT-HAND TURNS, EVEN WITH JUST A SMALL TURN OF THE WHEEL!!!.........very small>>>to almost no clunking on right-hand turns.

it is like a POP!!!....almost seems as if the locker is trying to unload and skipping a teeth. THIS HAPPENS EVERY SINGLE TIME I MAKE A LEFT-HAND TURN (like on a 4-way stop).

my question is......IS THIS NORMAL OF AUTOMATIC LOCKERS???>>>i understand the characteristics of auto lockers and this particular one, the No-Slip, but what confuses me is that this locker doesn't CLUNK on right-hand turns but only on left-hands?!?!?!?!

*note*>>>....i tried gasing it hard on left-hand turns from a stand-still and it doesn't CLUNK as much, it seems as the inner tire is loosing just a bit of traction and the locker is in full lock, therefore, its not trying to disengage and doesn't CLUNK.......>>>>>???

*note---2*.....didn't have any loose dirt or off-road areas near so i did a "burn-out" test to see it the locker is working.........TWO STRIP MARKS AND I WAS OUTTA THERE!!!.......i need to find some off-road area and test it there!!!

 

making a turn in either direction with heavy torque the locker should lock up and the inner wheel will spin and skip a bit. there shouldn't be any clunking at all during this time. when the locker is engaged that's it, there is "no-slip" . as long as the torque is there it will stay locked. if it is still clunking while turning with heavy throttle and the locker engaged then the clunk would be coming from something else.

 

yep, i'm aware of what happens when torque is applied to an auto-locker. but this happens when there's barely or just a small amount of torque is applied, such as the letting the engine creep forward.

i have another troubleshooting idea.........to those who have installed a "lunch-box" type locker (no-slip, lock-right, detroit....etc):

what are the torque spec that you used when you torqued everything back up?>>>need a list please...

i torqued the "3rd to axle housing" @ 54 ft/lbs. went back and torqued to 18 and it was a little better.

Need the other torque spec please???

 

The torque specs shouldn't affect the locker AT ALL and changing them could be a serious safety hazard. This document should have all the specs you need.

 

this helps ALOT!!!....thanks!!!