No-Slip HELP!!!

This is the part of the diagram that is important to understand how the locker works.


It's fairly simple, only 5 wires. 1 ground, 2 supply current to the motor, and the other are connected to a switch that detects when the locker is fully engaged/ disengaged so the motor can be shut off.

 

well, just got back from the junker again.

is this what you guys were talking about, the e-locker ecu......(picture attached)

i had to cut the wires, they were going somewhere DEEP!!!

drew, i would like to try that method. BUT......i'll need a picture write-up of how to make the thing. I DO NOT UNDERSTAND THE ELECTRICAL SCHEMATICS AT ALL!!!......I'M A COMPLETE GOOF AT IT!!!

please let me know...

 

If we go my route, I'll build the thing, you'll just have to match the wire colors to plug it in. Should be fairly simple.

 

yeah, definitely.......anything helps now....

 

alright, spent a few days reading ALOT of shit.

i think that dick's diagram is the easiest (correct me if wrong)...... .

ran to the local radio shack and got:
a pack of fuses
an inline fuse holder
some light bulbs (for fancy-pancy)
and a DPDT switch

my main concern is this.......

i have the stock harness connecting into the elocker itself. how do i know which wires from the stock harness (dick's diagram) go into the switch that i have???

the switch attached...

 

Did your switch come with a diagram?

 

no. on the side you see it says:

3 and the other side>>>>>>>>>6
2 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>5
1 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>4

 

I'm really not sure. When I need to figure that kind of stuff out I just test the switch with a Multimeter.

 

i don't have a multimeter......how do you even do that???

 

You set it to test for resistance and see which terminals are connected in each position.

 

One problem with that dude's design is that it requires you to route power through the firewall and into the cab. That is generally not a good idea, because if there's a short it could start a fire. Best practice is to use a relay to switch the power.

 

Here's what the "master electrical engineer" (my bro) had to say about that design:

...with that design, the switch wiring is always has high amperage power to it. Not a good idea, plus he's running the motor's power through the built in limit switch in the locker. Toyota doesn't do it that way, and I wouldn't be confident that the limit switch is rated for anything greater than signal voltage. If the shift motor went bad, it could fry the limit switch as well. Using a relay isolates the components and will only allow for low power through the factory limit switch.

 

okay............

well, i ran to the local hardware and got a multimeter.....

and about the whole relay issue.......

i don't have any experiences or no experiences with electronics on vehicles so help me out......

so i would need a relay then???.........i did see some at radio shack but don't know if they'd work. would the relays at radio shack work? can i get a relay at the auto-chain stores? what kind of relay should i get?

thanks.

 

The relays from radio shack should work.

If you can wait a week or 2 I'll mail you a pre-built electrical unit with everything you need to just "plug and play".

 

i'll be going back to school within 2 weeks so i won't have time to be messin' with my truck as i'd like to.

but whatever you can do man, i appreciate it.

also, in the mean time, i'll try and see if i can get this to work.....WILL need help from you veterans.......

98 taco, are there such things a DPDT relays or is there another way of naming/identifying the relays???.............(this proved how much i know about electronics)....

 

Okay, I should be able to get it mailed to you sometime next week. You should go ahead and install the new axle so all you have to do is wire it up once the parts come in. Make sure the locker works first though.

I need the following info from you:
1. Amount of space (depth) available behind where the switch will go, stock location(s).

2. The length the control wires will have to travel from the connector on the differential, along the axle, along the brake line, along the driver's side frame rail and up into the engine compartment to the brake booster.

 

hey drew, my bad. BEEN BUSY AS FUCK!!!

Before anything, honestly I am not sure.

1. I am not sure, ^^^. Stock should be fine I guess.

2. I have the stock wiring that runs all the way to the driver's kick panel. What I was thinking of doing was just splicing/soldering your controls to my stock wiring, if that's ok?

Apologise again, thanks again as well!!!