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No-Slip HELP!!!

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by El Taco, Aug 6, 2009.

  1. Aug 15, 2009 at 8:57 PM
    #121
    drew02a

    drew02a Rocking your mom's world Since 1997

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    No problem man

    I think we'll probably give you enough wire to run all the back to the rear axle so you can splice it there. Don't worry about the measurements, I can find them somewhere.
     
  2. Dec 2, 2015 at 8:58 PM
    #122
    garage3d

    garage3d New Member

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    I know this thread is over six years old, but I'm currently having a very similar problem with a No-Slip. Did you ever get it sorted out? I haven't done a road test yet, but the test the installation manual calls for--holding one wheel forward then snap the other back--has only worked on one side. I've swapped the couplers from side to side and the problem still exists.
     
  3. Dec 3, 2015 at 3:13 AM
    #123
    devinzz1

    devinzz1 Well-Known Member

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    lewisporte Newfoundland
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    cxr turbo, fic6, methanol injection, king coilovers, jba uca, skyjacker leafs, rear 12" 5125s, no-slip rear locker, 35" grabber x3, magnaflow muffler, retrofit headlights, trans cooler, bed lined exterior, etc...

    You have to re engage that wheel before the other one can unlock. Just spin it the way it doesnt move or hold wheel and spin drive shaft. Same thing happened to me upon installing but i just went with it and its been 20k without a problem so far. Did the little "fit, no fit" key work?
     
  4. Dec 3, 2015 at 7:22 AM
    #124
    garage3d

    garage3d New Member

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    Devin, thanks for your reply. Greatly appreciated.

    In doing the test described in the installation manual, I believe I had the wheel re-engaged after testing the first side. I did not, however, turn the drive shaft as you suggested. Maybe I'm misinterpreting your directions. What I did was...

    1) Hold the Left Wheel forward

    2) Have a helper hold the Right Wheel forward.

    At this point everything was good. Neither wheel would go forward other than to take up a tiny bit of slack.

    3) Holding the Left Wheel forward the helper then snapped the Right Wheel backward. The coupler did disengage as it should.

    4) The Right Wheel was then spun around until the coupler re-engaged.

    5) Next we turned both wheels forward. Again, everything good. Neither wheel could go forward other than to take up the slack.

    6) I then snapped the Left Wheel backward, but instead of the Left Coupler dis-engaging the Right Wheel was again freed up!

    Puzzling.

    Yes, the go/no good key fit nicely. I think with the key in place I have about .018" additional gap between the opposing couplers. This is a better fit than the fit No-Slip I got (which I returned when the tech rep at Richmond concluded it was defective. With the first one the key just barely fit into the gap).

    I think I'll button things up, take it for a test drive and see if it works properly. I'm encouraged by your experience. I definitely have the everything installed correctly per the instructions, and the gap is good, so maybe it will be fine.
     
  5. Dec 3, 2015 at 12:11 PM
    #125
    devinzz1

    devinzz1 Well-Known Member

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    lewisporte Newfoundland
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    cxr turbo, fic6, methanol injection, king coilovers, jba uca, skyjacker leafs, rear 12" 5125s, no-slip rear locker, 35" grabber x3, magnaflow muffler, retrofit headlights, trans cooler, bed lined exterior, etc...
    Its because the no slip stays unengaged unlike the lock-rite to eliminate the "click click click"
     

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