No start after slipped timing belt/Replacement (3.4L)

Hey James, I have the timing set up correctly with the indent shown on the bottom of the cam in the last pic but it still doesn’t run correctly. I just wasn’t sure if maybe the cam pulleys were replaced out of whack possibly and I needed to go off the white marks someone painted on there.

I just had it turned to show the teeth that were painted

 

I have it timed as shown in this picture, just had it rotated to show the white tooth and where it lined up.

I was just confused as to why someone would have painted a new mark on the pulley.

So timing is set correctly as you’ve described it, but still have a no running condition.

 

James, do you have any ideas in regards to the weak orange spark? Or even if i am supposed to be seeing any rpm
Jump on the tach when I’m cranking?

I’m just gonna assume the timing is fine since all the marks are lined up and look at some different areas.

I’m missing so much work not having this truck running and it’s killing me right now

Edit* would it be worth it to to try setting the timing on the drivers side cam that has the white mark? It’s the only cam to have the mark on it. I don’t want to do the belt again since it’s set to the factory notches, but it has me so curious

 

The plugs only have roughly 100 miles on them though they did foul out before the belt slipped.

The plugs do have the double grounds on it, denso platinums I believe.

I found a donor truck locally, maybe I’ll go grab both a cam
Position sensor and a crank position sensor and swap them out. Just hate throwing money and not time at stuff

 

They also use an igniter with is located behind the air box I believe. Also if your battery is low it won't give off a strong spark. Wouldn't hurt to check for codes.

 

Apparently wht95scort is right and after looking it up there definitely is an igniter right behind my air box, I was never sure what it was until now to be honest. Gonna do some research into this

 

Not sure why I didn’t just do this in the first place but I pulled the coils and checked them for resistance and the coils are giving primary resistance of 1.2-1.3 where spec requires 1.05 as maximum resistance, secondary resistance is showing as an open circuit on every single coil even the junkyard unit. So I’m guessing these are original coils, got hot and failed coincidental failed at the same time.

Crank sensor, cam sensor all came back within spec.

Waiting for plugs, wires and coils to come in and I guess we will see

 

It's half coil on plug, half wires. You can get new densos online cheap. They were OEM supplier.

Have you pulled valve covers and concerned cams are aligned? Mine weren't.

Have you ran through the procedure via Toyota manual? It's easy to get it off.

 

I highly doubt you have 3 failed coils. Can you take a pic of all your timing marks? Also looks like you have a broken or exposed wire in your first pic of your cam gear on page one right by the oil fill?

 

The harness on the right side of the cam is shredded but it’s been running like that since I got it last year and I picked through it and all the wires are fine. Good pickup

As far as the coils, I didn’t think it was very likely either but measuring the primary at higher than spec ohms and the secondary’s on them all register as open circuits. It would be nice if the issue was this simple but I won’t get my hopes up. I’m 100% sure the timing is set correctly as it’s set with the indents on the cams like it’s supposed to be and I manually checked the crank with a dowel. Will try and get a picture as soon as possible though.

 

What about that burned wire loom I see off to the right? Looks like bare wire exposed.

 

Apparently they aren’t.. I tested them and they are all out of spec and reading open circuit on the secondary output

 

Individual wire is poking out but none are burned or broken, pulled some more of the covering off a while back and poked through them all to make sure they were fine.

 

I have terrible service up here and I can’t upload a pic until i go downtown. But will post the timing marks bright and early tomorrow

 

Pics of my timing

 

Waiting on plugs, wires and coils to come in..

How essential are the double ground plugs on these engines? Like I said before I have a brand new set of denso plats with the double grounds but they fouled out really bad and not sure if I should just replace them now too.

I’ve seen people run single ground plugs on here like ngk laser plats but others have said you NEED the double ground with our spark systems

 

This is your problem. The exact thing happened on my 1998 4runner 3.4L My mechanic (no longer for other reasons) did a timing belt replacement. When he got it back together it would not start. We changed about everything including the cam position sensors and crank sensors. He closed up shop without me knowing and pushed my truck out side. Had it towed to a shade tree mechanic (still my mechanic). He went through the timing belt job and found everything to be good until he got to that crank gear which was missing a tooth. My previous mechanic had pried on the back of it to get it of the crank which resulted in the broken tooth. Buy that part and replace it and I almost guarantee she will fire right up!

 

Also, it should throw a code for crank/cam position sensor. Which leads you down a rabbit hole because the last thing you want to do is tear it all apart again. Sorry I don't know the code but if you were able to scan it, I am sure that is what will come up.

 

Yeah, I try to get everything back exactly the way it was before I pulled it off to prevent me having to go back. I pull hair alot but in the end its gonna run good for a long while and as long as I need it for.

 

Hey thank you so much for the reply! I did end up glueing and clamping the tooth back on and it still wouldn’t start. But I’m gonna go to the pick a part and pull one since I need a new upper timing belt cover anyhow.

But between the new sprocket with all the teeth, plugs, coils and wires I’m hopeful it’s gonna fire right up.

In regards to throwing codes, mine is a 95 and obd1 I get nothing from the obd2 port and for whatever reason I get nothing from jumping The pins on the obd1 unit hooked to the intake. Would be so helpful if either worked :/