No start after slipped timing belt/Replacement (3.4L)

All vehicles pre-96 were obd1 or KOEO. 96 on we're all obd2

 

Yeah I might be wrong on that but I was positive that most of not all pre-95 vehicles were obd1, with the exception of some manufacturers equipping obd2 in 1995

 

My truck has an egr. part number 25620-62050

 

yep. Book says its from 95.5 through atleast 99.

 

Interesting, good to know. I guess maybe I’ll borrow a scanner and try that route again. Parts come in tomorrow..

 

You can use a wire or paper clip and jump e1 and te1 in the dish port near the intake. Then key on and count the check engine light flashes. I believe 22 is normal no codes.

 

Tried that a while back and something is wrong because it never even acknowledges I jumped the pins like it should even if there aren’t any stored codes. So neither the obd1 or 2 ports do anything. Checked all fuses and everything so it’s kinda frustrating

 

I’d settle for it if it actually worked lol.. cruise but gets the job done to an extent I guess

 

When you key on engine off do you see the check engine light turn on the cluster?

 

Yep, I jump the pins and the light just stays on the same way it would if you weren’t jumping the pins.

 

That is almost always a symptom of a bad or misadjusted tps. Wont go into diag mode when it dosent think it is at base idle.

 

I’m learning stuff here everyday, sensors are only $10 a piece at my local pick a part. Might grab one just to try and see if it fixes it. I did show a few symptoms of a failing tps before my truck died for good.

Parts came in today, cheap Chinese coils all showing good resistance within spec and not showing open circuits on the secondary output like the originals, so between those and the ngk plus wires I got, I’m hopefully back in business.

 

Plugs, wires and coils did not fix the problem. Still just cranks and cranks. Plugs get soaked in gas and never starts.

Not sure where to go from here but will figure it out tomorrow after work I guess.

 

Does anyone have a picture or diagram of lobe orientation set where it needs to be so I can rule out being 180 degrees out?

Cylinders 1 and 2 need to be up and closed correct?

 

also I’d like to update that I found a 95 t100 donor truck with good engine,transmission, transfer case, all front suspension and axle components for $250 deliverered, just need to figure out what’s wrong here.

 

Also it had a brand new timing belt and all those components on it, all oem parts. The oem belt goes on magically compared to the cheap Chinese one I bought originally... truck just has a bad frame and the rear end was already pulled

There’s a junk yard near my house where the owner got caught doing some illegal shit(or so I’ve heard) and now it’s kinda out of business, no phones, email or employees besides the owner and his friend. So they are kinda just offloading stuff it seems like. Just using heir shop and the yard for personal projects. Very happy I found it especially since I was in the market for a t case anyhow

 

They were out around 60k miles ago where the previous owner has receipts for head gaskets done at somewhere other than a dealer and remarks on the invoice about checking the cams. Which is why I’m still even thinking about this

And thanks again for coming back to this thread, you’ve been very helpful so far

 

I want this mystery solved. I'm in to the end.

 

Gonna check voltage to the injectors when I get home in a bit

 

Just appreciate the effort is all...

I don’t plan on dissembling it because that’s way more than I feel comfortable with. It ran great for the longest time.

If a belt got old and jumped... would both cams jump in sync or would just one be out of whack? I hate even coming back to this but it’s what I seriously think is wrong... I should have just replaced the ignition components first before I just assumed the timing jumped and as if that fixed it...

The reason I keep coming back to this and ask if they would jump and be in sync is because they were both completely in sync with the marks at roughly 45 degrees to the right, with a red splot of paint on the left and black on the other lining up with marks above the cams. I can’t help but to assume if it truly jumped timing and I didn’t just jump the gun that the cam marks wouldn’t both be off perfectly in sync?