Noob needs some guidance!

Whats up guys? First post on this website, I've been visiting this website for awhile but I'm just one of those passive dudes who just watches it all go down and researches here but I'll jump right to it since there is some explanation to the problem. Needing some help/ guidance on which route I should take for my Tacoma. Its an 02 5 speed 3.4l 4x4 base model that I bought a few years back from a sketchy hole in the wall car sales place (weirdest car buying experience ever but I wanted the truck). Someone had already done a few things to it, SAW coils on the front, billsteins, wheels etc., but needed some tlc. I changed all fluids, threw new plugs in it, everything seemed to be okay and so I drove it. I spent forever trying to figure out what the clunking was in the back of the truck, there was also a shuttering noise during high speed coasting but neither were a constant thing. I read about u joints, driveshaft play, axle wrap (did axle wrap mod), rear shocks, transfer case, carrier bearing, pinion gear etc and also kept everything in the driveline well greased. Hell, even had a transmission shop tell me I needed a new transmission (went in for transfer case diagnosis). Everything shifted great no grinds or pop outs whatsoever so I ruled that one out. I could not diagnose it partly because I'm a noob to the truck and its past. The clunking would appear briefly and disappear for a long time and had no issues with it for about a year until I pulled out of a busy intersection with some aggression and heard a big clunk. Then things started going downhill... I was able to drive it home and around town with no issue but had a feeling I had done some damage. I figured since I couldn't diagnose it I would just run her till she gave out and then I would know what the hell to fix. So, on labor day I was headed to the lake which is an hour and a half drive. I made it an hour and 20 min into my trip with absolutely no issue at highway speed the whole way and a car in front of my slowed down, I popped it in neutral and heard another clunk. This time my truck actually shut completely off and all my dash lights went on. I got under the truck and could spin the rear driveshaft freely with no obstuction, so I knew the rear pinion had sheared off. I was only 10 min from my destination so I decided to put the truck in 4 hi and limp it to where I could get some tools to dismantle the rear driveshaft. Everything seemed great no noise or anything, until something in the rear diff jammed and destroyed both my transfer case and rear axle (probably). So this leads to a few questions I have..

disclosure: I know how to use the search feature

I looked for a long time for a non abs, non locking diff J shift t case and couldn't find one. Finally I just ordered a non abs locking diff J shift. Will this swap straight over or am I required to have a locking diff and some wiring or ecu swap?

Next question, I would like to upgrade to the factory e locker and most likely something is bound up inside the rear axle causing me to have to buy the whole rear axle assembly. So..

1st case: If axle housing and axles are intact and unharmed I understand I can find a 4:10 non locking diff and add truetrac later if I want?

2nd case: Everything is destroyed. I understand I can buy a trd axle assembly with 4:10 locking diff and convert to e locker. What does this swap entail? From what I've gathered I need to swap ecu, add switch and wire it up. Is that correct? Am I basically looking at doing this anyway because I bought a transfer case with locking diff?

Also any other recommendations from you guys that would be an easy tackle while everything is apart??

Thanks for taking the time to read all this and any guidance would be super helpful for me. I'm debating doing a write up depending on the job I tackle and doing a build thread for my truck. For now, here's how it sits. Thanks again!

-Josef

 

I can answer one question....you can just get the toyota locking diff and do the full swap, everything. Then just run a power wire via switch to the elock motor and thats it, no need for ecu....

 

too many words, edit your post and make it quicker to read

 

Thanks Bry that's useful knowledge!

 

Pretty sure the case is the same assuming you got one from a truck with the same motor. The T case has nothing to do with the locking diff (or ecu afaik).

 

Awesome, I assumed they were probably the same when I ordered it and the "diff lock" specification was that it was compatible with diff lock, not really anything mechanical. Thanks!