Norcal Spotted and BS Thread

Sam, I usually put a bigger screw driver in the rotor and have it rest against the caliper when removing the 35mm nut. That way the cv won't move and gives you a good leverage to break it loose. It's super simple and I did both cv's on my parents 03 in about 2 hours. That includes teaching my step dad how to do it.

 

deal!

 

perfect, i just have one CV to replace and then both hubs. Should go smoothly.

 

I'm at 100k and just went from 1.5 to a 3" lift. Drivers side inboard is in sad shape. Wonder how long that needle bearing was needing replacement? ECGS bush inbound. Not so sure about the current cv. Did you just get an end or a whole shaft?

Will inspect wb too. Have not done any water crossing so there should be a lot of life left in the wb's

 

i got a whole new assembly for CV as well as new bearings/hubs. I have jumped it a few times this weekend and the result is bad hubs and a blown CV. But they're original at 140k, so im not too mad.

 

do i need to unhook the LBJ two bolts at all for this or can i get away with not unbolting that?

 

Unbolt the lbj bolts and swing the spindly on and out to get the cv out

 

Sorce or brand CV? Understand you had some friction with WB builder, which one nj or bt? Save those hubs for future rebuild. Even your cv for parts too.

 

Brand new NAPA cv axle. I bought from NJ. I planned to save the hubs for emergency spares.

 

Note to self, "NO JUMPING!! save that for two wheels"

At least both suppliers are using quality parts.

I do overland all summer long and didn't even know that's what they called it. Rigs not beat but is starting to request some TLC.

Let us know how you did

 

Meh, nothing wrong with jumping. Just make sure your truck can handle it. Jumping a truck that doesnt have the suspension
to handle it is bad.

 

my suspension so far has handled it well, i still need to gusset certain things and theres little bits to do to make it even safer. Jumping is rare, especially for me. Im more about going fast in one general direction without care for terrain.

 

Should build a stelth rally truck/car

I can go faster on 2 than 4

 

I'm pretty much the same. But I'm building towards being able to handle a jump without breaking stuff, right off the bat, even though I'm not planning on huck fest or anything like that lol. Would rather over build for the go fast stuff than build for what I actually do and then break something on the once a year jump or whatever. Annnnd just got off the phone with DSMS, waiting for my invoice

 

meh, the whole point is doing it in our trucks. If I wanted a crazy fun whatever Id have bought a Razor and LT'd it with some crazy engine in it lol. But I want to have a nice truck and be able to go anywhere fast in it.

 

i have a feeling im going to go +2 TC kit before too long.

 

dooooooo it. Bah go big. Most guys I've talked to say if you like the go fast, go for the full kit. The 2" kit is great for expos and people that dont want the wide front end, but the 3.5" kit will give you the travel you want to go fast with.

 

i just really dont want to blow 8k or more on shit i already have technically. Just not to the capacity of an LT.

 

You're gonna blow close to the same for 2" kit lol. The only difference is 1.5" of metal and a couple hundred bucks lol. But better performance IMO. Not saying you cant tune the shit out of a 2" kit and be happy.

 

yeah thats my only hold up, to buy stock length LCAs would be a little foolish when you can get the full race kit for not a lot more. Just need the coilovers again and the axles. Along with random other shit as you know. But great googly i couldnt imagine mine actually LT'd. Would blow my mind hole.