Norcal Spotted and BS Thread

Can anyone diagnose a no-start issue for me?

Story goes I installed a supercharger on my truck, 1998 PreRunner 4x4 2.7l I4 3RZ-FE. First time I cranked it, fuel was spurting out of Injector 4. I pulled the fuel rail the next day and replaced the O-Rings. Bingo, no more fuel leak.

However the truck would not turn over. It would slowly crank, but never start. It sounds like a dying starter or a dead battery.

So here's what I did: I tested the battery, 11.6 volts. Should be fine. Then I tried jumping it with my Mercedes-Benz E320, same result. Slow crank, no difference.

Then I unhooked the battery from the Tacoma completely and ran jumper cables directly from the Mercedes to the battery harness on the Tacoma. I held the E320 at 2,000 RPM. 13.8v at the Tacoma battery harness (sans battery)

Surprise! Same issue, slow crank.

I suspect bad starter, so I pull it out and take it to AutoZone. It passed with flying colors. However, I question the validity of AutoZone's test. I haven't tested it against the Toyota FSM yet, but I plan to.

I checked the resistance between the positive battery cable and the positive stud on the starter. Varies between 0.4 and 0.6 Ohms. Normal. I tried grounding the starter directly to a good ground point (LCA bolt) via jumper cable, no difference.

I touched two grounds: Firewall x Engine Block, and Intake Manifold x Injector Harness. They're both grounded fine it appears, I filed down the paint on the manifold ground. I ripped off the engine coolant sensor by accident, but I repaired it. That's about it electrical wise besides unplugging sensors on the block and manifold plus EGR.

Here's a video of it cranking. Any ideas?

https://streamable.com/t4ckw

I just want to drive the damn thing already... haha. I did this at the worst possible time. I've been moving using the Tesla and the E320 and I never realized how much I took for granted how useful having a truck is.

 

Did you check the plugs to see if they are wet?

Remember, check the basics first. Does it have spark? Does it have fuel? Does it have oxygen?

 

I have a feeling I burned the starter because I was cranking it so much to check for a fuel leak at the fuel rail. I could've flooded the cylinders too, so I check Cylinder 1. No obvious signs of flooding, I poked my flashlight in there and it appeared to be dry. You could only smell fuel if you hold the spark plug up to your nose.

 

I feel like I had that issue when I installed a SC. It’s been a while though. Let me think about it and what my solution was.

 

Basic question but are your spark plug wires in the correct spots/connected solid?

 

http://neverbuyatacomaoffroad.com/

 

Kinda scary for those with the same truck. I'm glad I have a second gen.

 

I see the point they're trying to make. If you knew what needed to be done to the truck, it's not a bad platform to build on top of.

 

Buyer’s remorse.

 

...when third-gen owners make a website.

 

I can't get to the vid here at work, bear with me lol...

I'd doubt AutoZone's starter bench-test process too. Got an amp clamp handy? You could measure the actual starter draw while it's trying to crank the engine over.

Was that 11.6v on the battery how far it dropped under a load test, or was that the surface charge amount? Less than 12.5v surface charge, and that battery isn't fully charged. If that 11.6v is under load (like from a carbon-pile load tester, e.g. VAT40), that battery's in great shape. How did you test it?

Resistance testing cables/circuits is nice & all, but I'd recommend to voltage-drop test those battery cables. You could only have one strand of copper still connected and pass a resistance test. Load testing or voltage-drop testing is much more reliable.

How's the starter relay? Any fretting on the terminals?

Also, didn't see it in the post (might've missed it), but how's the negative battery cable where it connects to the block? Not familiar with a SC install on the 3RZ, so curious if any ground cable locations were moved as a result? (and admittedly when I worked at Toyota 20 years ago, these new Tacomas never showed up for anything but oil changes and tire rotations - I left for Chevy before the first Tacos were out of warranty lol)

 

Damnit!!!!
I need tailgate protection. Who has a tailgate plate or cover or stiffener? I need to get one very soon.

 

Folsom over by Datons point where during the summer there's some rock outcroppings and areas to explore around

 

Looks like it's this guy. https://www.tacomaworld.com/members/srosro.256195/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/smoking-while-on-a-incline.511373/page-23#post-20682923

 

Carrying some hard wood... oak for days.

 

Spotted in San Jose off of Blossom Hill. Dood slowed down and threw up a peace sign to me as I was getting out of my truck at subway. White lifted second gen. Any of you knuckleheads?

 

Sounds like me and in my hood but not me

 

I’m pretty sure the are, but getting it to start is one thing - right now the starter isn’t spinning fast enough to even get it started.

 

Yeah that was my issue, but the V6 wires are easy to mix up.

 

Try to find out how many amps that starters drawing. Probably needs a starter - assuming all connections are good and battery is good. Quick check to isolate the starter. Do a voltage drop test. Check your source (battery voltage) voltage. Then have someone crank the engine while you check the voltage difference between the starter terminal that gets power only when cranking and the starter case (ground). If you drop source voltage (or really close to) across the starter, either you have an engine drag concern or it's the starter. Have you rotated the engine by hand to make sure there isnt an issue with the supercharger not rotating smooth? A locked up belt pulley can cause a slow crank and no start issue.