Northern Virginia Roll Call

I think I'm going to measure how the truck sits in the front and rear now,

then put my winch bumper and winch on and re measure,

then decide on a lift that will suit my needs the best,

then order the wheels and tires. that way each of those mods will compliment each other and not interfere with one another.

 

Then my mistake.


Still don't understand why folks think lifts change tire size capabilities.... but apparently I'm just dumb and don't understand this truck stuff.

 

I'm confused..... lifts absolutely change what tire size you can run.... unless youre willing to hack your truck to death

in a linear timeline you dont want to buy tires and then figure out what lift you want to run..... you buy the LIFT and then see what size tires you want to run

in my opinion, suspension should be decided and installed prior to tires in both competition and everyday use applications.

 

I have similar, the toytec ulk. Basically looks the same. Not sure of differences. They are 5100s on adjustable 620# eibachs. They ride ok, nothing to write home about.

 

FTFY.

 

Tires are going to hit in the exact same place whether you are lifted 2", not lifted at all or actually dropped. Your factory suspension setup(not talking about coilovers and such) have a "predetermined" travel amount. Meaning they can go up only so far and down only so far.

Your limits of geometry, uca's/lca's binding and such mean your suspension has "x" path. By doing a "lift" the only thing you are changing is where your ride height is. In other words, where your tires sit when the truck is at rest. Unless you adjust your bumpstops or add limit straps your suspension is still going to follow the same path, granted it may take more force to go full compression. Hence why I say "lift" has zero to do with what size tires you can run.

The other side of this is that "lift" let's you clear bigger tires at the malls and that you never plan to fully cycle your suspension so it doesn't matter. In which case I will kindly excuse myself from the conversation and offer no further input bc we are not looking at the same picture through the same view...

Not being a dick, just trying to share info that I have learned the hard way after completely obsessing over these trucks for years. But I'm sure a quick browse through my own build will show just how little I know...

 

To elaborate on what he is saying, i don't think a lift will affect the elevation of your cab mounts unless your lca changes geometry...like long travel or sas. I think you are focused on the ride height rubbing the inner portion of the fenders, which lift can obviously help but the cab mount will still be a factor assuming we are discussing the same references.

Unless like tacofms said, if you never plan to actually cycle through your suspension then you can have all the lift in the world but your tires will still rub at the mounts as they have only one geometric cycling that they can do which is pretty much going down towards the cab mount.

Coot

 

I miss my 2003 GLI VR6.
Mine was grey. Can't find a pic now tho

 

In my defense, I gave very good advice and told him to be patient and really research things before he bought them. Guess it went in one of David's ears and out the other

Matt

 

Not dumb, just wise beyond most

 

One of the most frustrating things on this site.

Also, @Me. Projekt , you will most likely need a CMC with 285's if you actually stuff the tires ever, and will probably rub in scenarios like certain speedbumps, pulling into a sloped driveway, etc. Especially with low caster and stock front bumper.

Matt

 

I'm not taking offense to this at all trust me. And I hope it's the same way for you. I am enjoying this discussion for sure!

But while I agree about SUSPENSION, a lift WILL change on where you will rub on the body, fenders, and bumper for sure.

Also, wheel offset and back spacing will influence this as well.

And I do not doubt you know your shit, I have actually browsed your build long before this conversation (when we talked about you doing work to my truck I naturally wanted to scope out your build)

Unless 4Runner suspension / can mounts are vastly different than Tacomas, I don't think I will have a problem with 285s... no doubt I will need to chop if I run the 295s.

But I have taken the 4Runner out and wheeled some of Colorados most "suspension testing" trails and have FULLY cycled both front and rear (honestly a little more than I was comfortable with in a brand new $40k truck. Haha) and had zero issue rubbing on the Body Mount.

Honestly from what it sounds like, we are saying the same things... just in different manners.

 

But lift won't change where it rubs. The hub is still going travel in the exact same track. It's "rest" position is all that changes. By lifting the only thing you are actually changing is you are starting out with more up travel than stock but less down travel. Bc you are riding along already partially drooped. In regards to stock. Sure you may not rub while driving down a smooth flat paved road, but you will still have the same chance of rubbing when compressed or turned at full lock as you would with stock suspension. I'm not debating where the tire will sit when the truck is parked or whether it is already in the fender when it gets lifted and sitting empty with the wheels straight. I'm debating whether it will rub when stuffed and at full lock. At which point a lift is rendered out of topic because at full stuff you are on bump stops and might as well have no suspension in it in this regard. With that said, this is the reasoning behind why many of us try to explain why lift has no bearing on what size tire you can run. Again if you plan on only running flat smooth roads then this entire discussion has been nothing but a practice in how to type responses.

But you are exactly right about wheel specs. That does completely change where the tire sits/hits because it can push the tire further out or pull it further in.

 

So are you saying you only lift for ground clearance?

You talk like lifting is pointless off-road

 

On ifs, lifting is almost pointless if you don't mind chopping because you can actually gain the same ground clearance and fit the larger sized tires by removing material that is in the way. Granted, most dont like the sound of that. This is why if you look at most guys that are running mid travel and 34's or 35's they actually only have their coilovers ran up about 2". This is bc they are trying to keep COG as low as possible to keep them stable. They could crank their coilovers all the way up and enter the trail with as much clearance as possible, but as soon as they drop in the first obstacle this is erased and they have zero down travel which means they are going to be carrying a wheel a lot. We all know 4 wheels on the ground pull these trucks better than 3!

Now if you actually do a suspension rebuild with extended travel coilovers and uniball control arms or something that allows the coilovers to cycle in the intended extended travel then in essence it's not a "lift kit" it's a suspension overhaul. Because you have changed the entire geometry and amount of travel.

With that said, yes a lift kit will give you additional clearance offroad. Until you compress your suspension. Then the only thing keeping ground clearance is your tires. But that's true with any vehicle.

 

Also, I'm not talking about or considering starting ground clearance. I am referencing what is known as usable ground clearance.

 

That's what mine looked like but I stole the pic from internet eugoogly button lol!

 

All packed up ready for flagpole early morning! Try to get some pics and hope to see some of you out there. If not we should do a mod day and beers soon before or after spring break.

 

Have fun!

 

that sounds like a great time! have fun and be safe!

I agree about the mod day, I need to put my bumper and winch on... it should be here in about 2 weeks