NorthWest MOAB 2012 Team

I found a V6 3rd member for 100 bucks I'm going to offer 50 and use it as a core for my locker

 

Nice

 

it would have been if it wasn't already sold!! shitfuck

 

damn Shitty deal bro.

 

he said it sold an hour after he put it up

 

ha! not surprised..haha

 

I'm going to keep looking for one maybe pull and save will have one

 

I can drive on the highway and get about 16mpg, My taco is pretty heavy with all the protection and gear I carry. I can do 70 on the freeway at a low rpm, I wanna say its like 1700rpm at 60ish. Its been awhile since I have driven it any length on pavement though. I would highly recommend going with 4.888 for 33's. Do you need to? no but it is awesome with them. The lowend torque or grunt with them the v6 and the auto is amazing. Mike has driven mine a few times he can tell you how it feels compared to his 32's and stock 4.10s

 

ARB is the only way to go if you still have ADD and want a front locker. On my truck if I destroy a cv axle no biggie, just turn out the hub and away I go. I can get cv axles for about $90, I will break them all day over blowing my diff apart or even the hubs. I actually prefer the cv axle to be the weak link, kinda like a fuse.

 

Here are a couple of my favorite pics of the truck. Kinda old though, from 2007.

 

You guys are demonstrating you lack of slow wheeling experience. By the time you are done with moab I am betting that you will have changed your minds about stock gearing with 33s.

Wrong again young one. All TRD Tacomas with 8" ring rears and the e-locker are 4.10s. ALL

This ^^^

It is about being able to go slow and still be in the ideal power band of the 3.4L. With 33s and stock gearing, low range isn't low enough. Monte, to go slow enough you will have to play with the clutch. You may get away with it for a while but it will eventually catch up to you. Ben might be OK with 32s but I am a little concerned about you clutch.

Here is how I think about it. If I am going to go to the expense of re-gearing, 4.88 is the ratio that makes the most sense. It gives me the most options for larger tires and gets me back to where the engine rpm and tranny ratios work best for fuel mileage and power.

Besides, one tire option I am considering is 285/75-17. It is a nice compromise. Not to wide with good height at almost 34x11.

 

I'm bringing a clutch, 2 U-joints and 2 spare CVs I plan on wheeling hard and i know my little 4 banger is going to be angry with me and my 33s

 

What is your gear ratio? 3.73?

 

If you are asking me for "A", I have no idea of what you are talking about.

As for "B", It all depends on the abuse. Do you "slip" your clutch? I'll bet there are people on this site that 200K on their stock clutch.

I was talking to adam. Does he have 4.10s?

 

i have 4.10s

 

My audi had 150k on the stock clutch.
my T/A had 65k before i blew it out
my G/A had 130k before replacement

the taco will get an early replacement.

 

I had bigger tires than you. Tranny ratios also play a part in the differncees but is mostly tire size.

If we are both going 65 mph, my rpms will be lower than yours if my tires are taller than yours.

 

I have a manual tho..i already cruse at 2700 going 75..granted now..that would be i guess..81..haha at 2500 my speedo reads 65ish or actually around 70..I can believe you on the low end torque tho..i do miss that..

Very true man. Its a start way to setup the front the way you have it..sadly i don't have manual hubs..so ARB it is for me plus ill be getting on out back too i think.

They are lower. An Autos overdrive gear kicks the rpms down to like 2100 Plus with the taller tires..he is going even faster. I thought you were an engineer haha

 

It a use of fluid. Instead of an actual hard disk like a clutch there is a liquid. The more gas you apply, the more fluid goes in till a hard bond is formed turning both the drivetrain and flywheel at a 1:1 ratio...in simple terms anyways.

 

...wow...