Not starting, no lights on the dash.

Fuse seem good. This will be a fun one to chase . Start looking for a fsm and look at the wiring diagram regarding power from battery to ignition switch. Your ignition lock cylinder should be fine on my opinion.

Good luck.

 

You don’t think it could be the ignition switch?

 

Possibly the switch

 

the 40 amp AM1 fuse is after the 120 amp fuse and before the ignition switch.

 

Replaced the switch. Still nothing :/ going to pick up a test light tomorrow so I can try to track it down

 

The Dome light, Door ding, and headlight are on their own separate circuits. The one you are worried about is the ignition circuit. Your truck had 2 Ignition leads.

1 - Starter, Ignition1, and Accessory. I have a feeling this PDF will help. Page 2 gives you an idea where to look. This one is White in color for INPUT and is Blue-Yellow for OUTPUT of the ignition switch

2 - Ignition 2 which is responsible for the ignition coils, igniter. This one is White-Red in color for INPUT and is Blue-RED for OUTPUT of the ignition switch

 

Sorry for the late reply but it was a blown fuse labeled AM1. I replaced it and it ran for a few days but the problem is that it keeps blowing. So something is causing to to blow which should be fun to try to track down.

 

Here is someplace to start, it was taken from a 4-Runner forum: With some research, I found that the AM1 fuse is in a circuit with the starter, ignition switch and accessory. I looked at the starter first because it was the last repair. The solenoid wire clip was loose, upon further inspection, I found that it attaches to a two-prong wire inside the starter and one side had broken free and was grounding. I was able to solder the wires back in place and super glued the clip to the starter to minimize the chance of breaking the connection again. The 4Runner is back on the road!

 

This thread on TW, post# 21 offers tips on the AM1 fuse that keeps blowing. =>
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/pulled-fuse-while-running.167280/page-2

 

If you have blown a 120 amp fuse there is a big reason if you blow 50 amp fuse you have a problem they just don't go bad. I would try a jumper battery first batteries can just go toes up.

 

It was the AM1 fuse which is a 40 amp

 

The weirdest part is that after replacing it, it will last a few days before it blows again. It doesn’t just keep blowing right after I put a new one in.

 

hopefully this helps... my best guess is that it is like mentioned above, something on the starter circuit. Looking at the diagram if it was something after the ignition switch those fuses would blow.

 

Fuses don't die a natural death. I'm thinking you have an issue with the starter solenoid it is what actuates the high current part of the starter it's inside of the starter.

 

Great suggestion. To the OP, if you pull the starter and open the solenoid part that is wear the contacts and plunger are. Replacing those components for new is what is done when people have that problem of when turning the key to crank the engine over and if the engine doesn't turn or crank. Lol I guess all I'm saying is if you have the starter pulled do your contacts and plunger since the hardest part(removing starter) is already done. Actually the solenoid would be what you open up anyway since that's where the current goes through.

 

That is true if they just click and don't crank but the 40 amp fuse is not carrying the load of the starter that in itself is not fused and draws huge current. If it's taking out the fuse it probably is the solenoid coil I gather it's a remaned starter maybe it still has some warranty left.

 

Indy did you ever figure out what the issue was? I have a 2005 4Runner SR5 with the same issues. No crank no start, done light works, radio works, air hvac is on, headlights work, windows, done light , open door light and chime, but no odometer or other lights. Again no crank no start not even a click. I’m going to check the alternator 140 fuse tomorrow. Was wondering if you ever got to the bottom of this since you had the same issue. Thanks again in advance!

 

My issue ended up being that my aftermarket horn that I had at the time was shorting, causing the 40AMP AM1 fuse to blow. I removed the horn, replaced the fuse. Problem solved. Like was stated in this thread I’d start with checking fuses. Also check battery cables to make sure you have a good connection. From there it will just be process of elimination.