**NOW AVAILABLE** AccuTune UCA

NOW AVAILABLE!!

AccuTune Offroad Upper Control arm for 2005+ Toyota Tacomas is designed to fit larger tires and longer shocks, while maintaining proper alignment. Tubular steel design looks great with high quality powder coat finish. FK Rod ends are sealed to keep dirt and debris from premature wear and noise. Heim joints come pre-set and ready to install.

-1.25 x .120 wall DOM tubing
-Powder coat finish
-3/4″ FK Heim Joints
-Sealed high quality ball joint
-Aluminum ball joint cap included
-Made in the USA

[Installation Guide] ​

​

​

 

I’ve read some of your posts and watched your videos about your AccuTune control arm offerings. In terms of features, it is pretty easy to tell the differences between the various control arms you sell. One of the big selling points you mention is fitting larger tires without a CMC. Can you provide some insight on geometry differences (specifically variance on camber/caster adjustment from OE arm specs) of your control arms vs the other ball joint equipped arms (Camburg, Dirt King, Icon) you sell?

 

It's a bit complex and most of the caster numbers you see with aftermarket arms do not tell the whole story. We've installed quite a few upper control arms from various manufactures and felt we could provide a better product. I am not able to share specifics since it took us quite a while to develop this control arm. We took into account the vehicle being lifted and wanting to run larger tires, not just correcting geometry based on added lift height. In general, We are shooting for 2-4 degrees of caster with the rear cam adjusters all the way out, front all the way in.

 

Thank you for the response. I understand that the question I asked doesn’t have a simple answer. Lift height, rake, other alignment settings all play a part in tire clearance and caster settings. As a consumer that has a decent grasp on the challeng, it is frustrating that there isn’t really a way to have an apples to apples comparison of UCA geometry. Even if a caster number is provided, under what conditions was it measured?

I appreciate you providing the caster range given the position of the lower control arm cams! Can you at least share if most of the other arms tend to have a higher positive caster with the LCA in the same position?

Lastly, convince me that I am being paranoid about the heim joints on an upper control arm being noticeably worse for NVH than a PU or rubber bushing.

 

IFS Suspension geometry can get pretty intense, there is a lot going on. Off-road race trucks are constantly making changes to get more travel, better steering etc. Our business is based around making things better, not just duplicating whats already out there. For this product in particular, I really cant go much more into it unless I had one of our engineers jump on here to spill the beans. Our target audience is a Tacoma/4Runner running close to max lift (with the shocks we sell) running a 285/70/17 tire with 4.5" backspace wheel.

Not sure what your definition of "worse" is. Heim joints on this arm allow us to get precise fitment in our fixture during assembly. Heim joints are strong and not prone to wearing out as bad in this location compared to a uniball where it rotates a lot. There are pro & cons to each style of joint which is discussed in depth here:
https://accutuneoffroad.com/ifs-upper-control-arm-101/

Also a great 4 part article on alignments:
https://accutuneoffroad.com/tacoma-4runner-wheel-alignment/

 

How much negative offset can I get away with on these uca's while avoiding a cab mount chop? Looking at Toyo OpenCountry AT3 285/70/17 on a Race Relations RR7-H 17x8.5 wheel with -12 offset. (Assuming these are paired with fox elite 2.5's)

 

We have not been able to test fit every tire/wheel configuration so I cannot guarantee that specific setup will work without a cab mount chop. We've had great success with BFG KO2 285/70/17 on 17x9 with 4.5" of backspacing

 

Looks good on my 2012! Just have them paired with a Bilstein 5100 and OME 887 coil for now but Fox Performance Elites will be added further down the road. Biggest thing I noticed was the heim joints giving a more responsive steering input/feel. Hoping to run a 285/75R17 (34 in tire) with a proper alignment and CMC but will report back with how they fit in a couple months.

 

My passenger ball joint cap was slightly popped off (partial o-ring visible) after going through the local OHV park. Maybe 20mph max with whoops and some slow and mild obstacle course. I noticed it while I was airing back up, so I hammered the cap closed with my fist.. but wonder what could've caused the cap to lift in the first place? The tires clear the UCA so I ruled that out. This is a new setup btw. Any idea?

 

Not too sure, they are usually pretty snug and takes some effort to remove. There is a groove on the inside of the cup where the o-ring sits, maybe it was slightly off.