NW WA Meet / BS Thread

You betcha, I've totally stalked your build thread at least two separate occasions!

 

An aside before I give up on the truck lol, does anyone know how to check rear axle shafts without just pulling it all apart? There is no abnormal noise in the rear or anything but that’s the only other thing I could think of lol

 

As a former pro detailer, I'm gonna throw additional shade at you on his behalf. Showing up with that much mud packed into the frame is just mean.
Cool GX470! Kinda wondering if I shouldn't have gone that route in retrospect. For how much I paid for the Taco I could have built one heck of a GX build.

 

Ha they're buddies of mine and love giving me shit about how much crap comes out of my frame and radiator when I take it in

 

Do a runout on the hub with the drum removed

 

Got you I don’t currently have a dial indicator so I’ll have to check into it.

 

Have you pulled the front driveline and drove with out it? Or pulling the rear and did the same to narrow it down?

 

Yeah honestly vibrations were pretty much the same in both cases. Toyota also did the rear driveline removal test and mentioned they didn’t notice a difference. Shortly after the accident. The one mechanical thing they replaced relating to the accident was steering column from me being forced into it. Though vibrations are in the seat/floor

 

That's really too bad man, you've got a good looking rig. I get it though, there's a point where ya gotta make a call. I'm in Lynnwood also, would like to recommend a shop but when mine got hit it just crumpled the LR bed.

I did get a weird vibe that developed on its own coming back from CA a couple years ago; took it to the dealer in Edmonds in eventual frustration and they couldn't figure it out either, but I did learn there was a Toyota tech bulletin on a suspiciously similar sounding issue. The bulletin told them to look at something related to the steering column, but tbh I don't remember what it was. I do know that they replaced that part because it was shot just like the bulletin said it might be, but the vibe (which was also in the floor) stayed; noticeable between about 35 and 45mph same as before, but it eventually went away. Btw it was a nice score for me, they only charged for the parts since it didn't fix the problem right away but I can't say for sure that whatever they did didn't fix the issue.

Just thought I'd mention all that because you talked about work on your steering column and a vibe in the floor; could be that it really doesn't have to do with your rear ender at all and that's why what you've tried so far hasn't worked.

 

Thanks for the tips and insights from your experience. I think that they've went over the steering column each time I brought it in, as I continued to reiterate that as well. If I do keep it I may replace the bushings in the rack and column to attempt to smooth things up more but just a series of problems lately. Hopefully I can figure some stuff out this weekend to know what my path forward is going to be, will keep ya'll updated for the various reasons of parts and/or knowledge-share.


On another note does anyone have a 4wd selector switch for a 2nd gen I can use to test if mine is bad? I tested continuity and the harness responds, and the switch does except on one location. (May or may not be normal). There was one other guy that recently replaced a switch when he had these the 4wd blinking light so I am curious

 

That's what is so bothersome about trying to get an LC. The drivetrain on my 2nd gen is so much better and yet people are trading their non triple locked beat to shit 300k mile LC's not built for bars of gold. Pisses me off. I do appreciate that insight as it would be a decent amount of work getting the Runner to where I want it vs how the Tacoma performs currently. The biggest thing I've been wanting to switch to for quite some time is an SUV. Maybe I should just hold out and eventually getting one already LS swapped and built to where I want anyways and then sell the Tacoma.

Hm...... There's a possibility Id be interested in your canopy lol

Yes sir. That is the one. He hasn't done anything to it except headlights that are crap and let the heater go out without fixing it. The price is extremely hard to walk away from, so its like ehhhhhh

 

Want to trade wheels?

 

I went from an SUV (GX470) to the taco. No ragrets....but I do miss the v8

 

I already tried...

 

Want to trade wheels?

 

Pulled the 4wd cab switch apart today. I did not assume there was this much electrical in it. Tested continuity and the strips are good, don’t seem too corroded. Will still clean them up and add grease. Across the two diodes there is not continuity. Not sure if that’s expected but I am assuming it’s bad.

 

Make sure you're testing the diode with the correct polarity since they only pass current in one direction. Like a check valve for electricity.
https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/blog/digital-multimeters/how-to-test-diodes

 

Ah thanks I had it right for one side but backwards on the other both drop about .420-.450 for each
“ agood forward-based diode displays a voltage drop ranging from 0.5 to 0.8 volts for the most commonly used silicon diodes. “
Sounds like they’re on the cusp...

If anyone is feeling brave and could check theirs, that may help me narrow down if this needs replacing.

 

Does anyone have a recommendation for a shop in or around Seattle that can do a good job on an exhaust reroute? I went to one place today and they quoted $500 initially and then I told them the prices people were getting on TW ($60 low and $200 high end) and he instantly changed to $200. Nice try.

I'm ordering full skids soon so I'd like the exhaust rerouted before then.

 

Dan fast muffler and brake was recommended to me by mule but I haven't gone in for an estimate yet.