NW WA Meet / BS Thread

Sort of a dumb question but maybe someone else has some experience here. I am looking at upping wheel and tire size to a 17x8 and a 285/75/17 (34.1 Yoko Geolandar), or possibly a 35. I currently am running stock wheels with 285/75/16 (33.2) Geolandars and that current setup weighs 85lbs per corner. The new setup will be 3lbs lighter on each wheel. Am I crazy thinking my milage won't increase here because the rotational weight will be less or is that negated by going to a larger diameter tire.

 

Yeah, probably a negligible difference. Tire is only going to be ~.5 taller and the width is the same. It’ll be a much bigger difference if you went wider. Any reason to just do 34s on 17s? A lot of money spent for very little gain.

 

So my wheels where a bit heavier than the stock ones (I don't have exact numbers), my gas mileage went way down (to 10-14, but I have a heavy foot) but I also have AT. Most of the posts I've seen on here, pretty much everyone's gas mileage has gone down since adding larger tires.

EDIT: I've also done a bunch of different stuff (like regearing) not long after getting new tires so my experience may vary. I also just realized you already have tires pretty close to the same size, which means it's probably going to be a wash.

 

Thats wild. I still average 16-17 city and 18-20 hwy with 35s, 5.29s, etc. I did choose lightweight tires and I have an aluminum front bumper as well. No roof rack as well.

 

I feel like with my clearance now I could get away with the 34s. Still on stock gears so that's one reason to not make the jump yet. I eventually will so that's why I'm justifying wheel upgrade. Also have 35k on this set of current tires so I'm not far off from replacing these anyways.

 

Ah, makes sense. I think with 34s you might need to do minimal clearancing. On my buddy’s 2nd gen he had to do the pinch welds (which you should with 33s anyway), cmc, trim a little of the front fender and rear fenders.

For the 35s, on top of what I did for 33s I had to do a much bigger cut of the rear fenders and get rid of the bedside supports. I still rub reversing in full lock and up front I rub the inner sheet metal at full stuff…need to tub it.

Rears at almost full stuff here.

 

I've got 285/75/17s, had to do cab mount, pinch weld, butchered the plastic. It still rubs the tiniest amount, clearance is very very tight. Fwiw I plan on going to regular 285/70s when these are done soon. The 75s cost sooo much more, if I didn't get them for stupid cheap I probably wouldn't have done it. I'd go with the 35x10.5 kendas instead

 

Yeah I have done the cab mount chop and pinch welds. I'm hoping to keep my fender liners with the 34s, we'll see though.

 

I still have most of my front fender liners, but yeah the rears are gone. Don’t want to take the front off because I don’t want to risk hydrolocking since I don’t have a dorkel…yet

 

I have mine with 35's, although I am on skinnies (10.5), I was able to trim my liners and zip-tie them nice and snug.

 

im running 285/75/17s on SCS F5s, i had to do the CMC and hammer the pinch weld over and at full lock with some articulation it still rubs but as for mileage i get 15-16 in town, and 18-19 on highway.

 

Stock gears?

 

Yup Stock gears. I try not to get into the Go pedal too much but shes been doing just fine. i did get the KDMax tune a while back but im not sure how much that really changes anthing in the long run

 

Cool, I have the KDMaxx as well! Good info thanks.

 

If you go wheeling up and down steep hill climbs regearing is a game changer. With 35s and 5.29s going down super steep hills in 4L I generally end up having to give it gas because it’s crawling so slow. It’s like a poor man’s crawl box.

 

Oh yeah I totally agree. ill admit that as much as I want to go wheeling that my truck is more of a pavement princess at this point but always down for a good off road trip. I've been looking into gears recently so it might be in the future for sure.

 

Any tips for getting a front diff drain plug out? First diff service and it is STUCK. Tried heat and a breaker bar but don't want to strip the plug.

 

penetrating oil like pb blaster and wait. if you can drive a while to heat cycle too. maybe put fitting in and bop it with a hammer. dont beat it like it owes you money though.

 

Had the same issue when I re geared, I used Mapp gas as it heats hotter and faster then lightly tapped around the edge of the plug with a hammer and punch and it eventually came loosened. If it does strip a welder can weld a nut too it then replace it with a lexus diff plug.
https://adventuretaco.com/a-front-diff-drain-fill-plug-that-doesnt-suck/

 

I ended up drilling and using a screw extractor when mine got stuck. Just make sure and don't drill all the way through the plug!