NW WA Meet / BS Thread

I personally try to not limit myself to one type of tree, although I do have almost exclusively pine around my house. Pretty sure most of my stripes came from non pine trees

 

opps (read as fail), I got too excited typing...

 

no, no... I like it lol It's like a pin stripe made by a pine tree. There for it is the "NW Pine Strip".

 

I Dont have a 1in block in the back and have my front sets at 1.75 and the front is still 1in lower then the rear i would put the billies on and set then at 1.75 and see what you think before you buy the blocks

 

Anyone have stock shock/top hat leftovers from when they lifted I might be in need of one.... I am going to tear apart the truck on Labor day weekend and try to figure out what is going on with my driver side.

N/m. Just ordered what I needed from wheelers. Might as well have them to be on the safe side...

 

i did a lift couple of weeks ago and left my stock stuff at Wills place...maybe he still has 'em.

 

Thanks... I decided to go ahead and order some new stuff. I only need the one side for now, and I decided to go with some extended bolts on the right side. I'll keep those in mind if I need anything extra. Did you do UCA's also?

 

Picked up my sliders at BAMF. Nice trip.

 

nope didnt do the UCA's....but in hindsight i should have done them....I am researching ones that i should do now...uniball etc...thinking of taking the sway bar out too...don't know if that effects my insurance policy...

 

Brady, I have the pieces you want now that you have ordered some.

Izzy, what have you found to be the better choice so far between uniball vs ball joint?

 

It's all good Zach. Cost me 80 bucks total, but the insurance of having new stuff is good for me. Especially on that side, which has been having it's share of issues anyway. Better safe than sorry... This way I will have an extra set of bushings too if I need them for anything.

 

I cant decide...most folks are saying to use uniball as they are stronger and provide more articulation but the downfall is that they are used up faster and need more maintenance.

Ball joint are good enough for light off roading but you never know what you will encounter on a trail...so wouldn't you be rather safe than sorry?

additionalty i think you can put on larger tires with uniball so if you are planing on puttin on 33+ tires uniball is the better option....

now that i am at the end of this post i think i will go with uniball

 

Researching wheels tires and lift atm...

Would this wheel work with 285/75r16 with a 3" lift?

Style: Worx
Size: 16X8
Bolt Pattern: 6x5.5
Offset: 10
Finish: Black
Backspacing: 4.89
Vehicle: Lifted Toyota Tacoma
Hub bore: 106.1

The hub bore is a question in my mind...

I should add that dip your car sells Plastidip in spray form kits by the gallons, easy to do and just fill in wear it peels or scratches and it's hardly noticable and far cheaper than wrap

I took my black '14 out and broke off tree branches along the way haha... We'll see how long that lasts

 

You will have to get wheel spacers as well (1" should do but it would just clear if it does). I will try to get a pic of my truck up here tomorrow for you to compare. I just put a 3" lift on with 265/75/16 and there isn't. Uh space left between the tire and upper control arm. The tires will fit vertically just fine and should have clearance otherwise. Total difference in tires is about 1" from what I have to what you are talking about, so figure 1/2" extra tire all around.

What I remember is that the factory 16" rims have a 4.5" backspacing. Having more backspace (like 4.89") means pushing the rim more under the truck, giving a narrower stance. In the case of 2nd gen tacos, this puts the wheels into the upper control arms. You would be better off to find backspacing of 4" or less. If you go too much outward, you will have to get fender flares for legal purposes. I want to say that in the state of WA, tires can legally only stick out 1/2" wider than the widest part of the body of the vehicle. This does not include the side mirrors. You have an extremely slim chance of being cited for that though.

On the hub bore, I have no idea. Some rims are designed as lug centric whiles others are hub centric. If you are having the new tires being mounted by les Schwabb, discount tire or some other similar type place, they should have any adapter rings for sale as needed. They are plastic rings that can adapt a lug centric rim to a vehicle designed for hub centric.

 

Cool, thank you for clearing that up, I'll shoot for <4" back spacing then, don't really want to run spacers especially if I'm going to buy new wheels. Pretty set on that tire size though with the nitto terra grappler m/t, thinking of going icon extended with uni ball UCAs also... Not sure what leaf set though yet

I should add I'm running close to the same as you stock I think 265/70r16? And it is real close already

 

Dakar leaf is what a lot of people have and it does great. Icons are spendy. I saw an ad on here for icons for the front only for $800. Full OME with Dakar leaf pack from Toytec is a little under $1300

 

That's what I keep going back and forth between... But sdhq and DSM both seemed to be higher granted I want UCAs too. Not sure how the ome setup would compare on the washboard roads and potholes etc... ? What a pain this is really

 

Edit: saw your already lifted and just looking at wheels/tires

 

Nope not lifted yet, just planning my setup in full ahead of time...

 

ProPhaze, maybe these can help you decide what you want to get. This is the OME with heavy front shocks on 885 coils and full Dakar leaf pack on 265/75/16 tires. Also remember that if you get 285/75/16, you will feel a power loss and fuel economy will go down until you regear. Just going from factory 30s to these 31s, I felt a steep drop in power (4 cylinder motor) and noticed she is drinking more gas now too.

Front wheel

Back wheel with 3000lbs or so of trailer pulling down

Inside wheel well from front looking back

Whole truck with trailer on back still