NYCO's '06 Boosted Blue Betty

the airflow fits the body lines a bit better and has plumbing allowing you to enter through the factory intake hole to connect to the factory airbox. so besides the mounting holes and hole for the snorkel plumbing, there is no other modification needed. i went a step further and mod'd the plumbing for a better fit.

if you're going supercharger at any point, airflow is better.

otherwise it comes down to looks really.

info on 2013 Rock Therapy
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/moab/243311-2013-t-co-gathering-official-thread.html

photos from the event
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/moab/279639-2013-t-c-o-moab-gathering-official-photo-thread.html

 

Bob that reply^ was like a boss lol

 

Did you seal the "drainage holes" on the stock intake tube when you did the Airflow install?

 

yup...threw some RTV in all the holes.

 

See any possible problems with putting a "catch can" there? Wonder if that would help heavy snow problems and keeping things dry.

 

i thought about that...or hook up a valve at the bottom that you can release

if i had better draining in there, that could have prevented my heavy snow incident

 

Thanks for the info!

 

having an issue with my headlights if anyone has some HID knowledge to help...

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/li...-lights-went-out-morimoto-mini-stage-iii.html

so a few days leading up to the blackout, my headlights would some times not come on when i turn them on. i would need to turn them off and back on for them to fire up. then monday they gave up. both lights do not fire up at all.

setup:
1x Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit (D2S)

• Wire Harness: Relay: H4/9003
• Bulbs: 1x D2S: Philips 85122+
• Ballasts: 1) Morimoto 3Five 35w

so i tested the voltage at the bulb connection



and my driver side was at 23 volts, but the passenger side was only hitting 6-7 volts

volts at the factory headlight connection was at 12

tried a different bulb (Morimoto 3Five 5000K D2S) and no luck

grounds all appear fine (they have been fine for over 2 years), but i went over the connections to make sure and cleaned up some wire routing while i was at it. but no changes made.

so i'm baffled...why would both lights not be working? 24 volts at one, but only 6 at the other, ballast? but why would the other side not work too?

any suggestions?

thanks

 

Thanks for your info on this.

 

what did you end up using?

 

1/8"NPT air compressor drain valve. Keeps the drain opening pretty close to the bottom surface of the intake.

 

was the 23v pre or post ballast?

pre ballast is way to much, post is not near enough

6..is just bad all together..


how are the power wires hooked up? separately or in series?

 

the 23 and 6 were measured post ballast where it connects to the bulb (see photo above)

power wires were setup per TRS instructions...

things haven't changed in the 2 years they have been installed

it has a relay harness which controls power to the ballasts...then ballasts to the bulbs

 

i ordered a new harness and ballasts from TRS, going up to 50w but they had a backup at the docks and they're shipment has been delayed...ordered them before SEMA hoping they would be here by the time i got back and was just going to swap everything out..

but the backorder has me without replacements and no lights for the week

 

yea id say your ballasts are done then.

Sucks they didn't come though haha tape some flashlights up there..good enough right?

 

Might hook my piaas up again or just run my led bar

 

hahaha

but officer...i can see better with this one then i can can ever with the sill head lights...haha

 

Sounds legit

 

I went through that with my old hids.. 4 bulbs and 4 ballasts in 2 years. Now I'm using stock bulbs that are 4 years old lol

Good luck