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NYCO's '06 Boosted Blue Betty

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Builds (2005-2015)' started by NYCO, May 18, 2011.

  1. Jan 27, 2014 at 9:55 AM
    #2741
    BradyT88

    BradyT88 Well-Known Member

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    I beat the hell out of my rig in a Rock Garden Saturday. Got high centered countless times and need numerous ledge climbs that I couldn't even get up locked front and rear without some big bumps and such. I followed a Solid axled pathfinder up on 34's. I was worried about my leafs the whole way, but by the time all was said and done and I made it to the top. I checked everything out and I never touched the leaf pack at all. I drug the hell out of my front and rear bumpers plus all of my skids, sliders and frame, but didn't touch the leafs or the u-bolt plates underneath.

    When we installed the DMZ kit with the new hangers it pushed the leaf packs about an inch further out on each side, so they are even closer to the wheels now so most things the tire just climbs before they u-bolt plates have a chance to make contact.
     
  2. Jan 27, 2014 at 10:01 AM
    #2742
    NYCO

    NYCO [OP] go explore...

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    when you get the truck up on the lift, you can disconnect the shocks..i would imagine the shackles to go near vertical...i think the shocks limiting the down travel is limiting the shackle movement..

    the amount of travel is why i'm contemplating going with the stock length shackles, lower my rear and run the coilovers at zero preload...it'll drop the whole ride down..but the front will still be able to droop down fully and the rears might still be able to droop enough to use up the full travel..

    will also mean less neg. arch on compression

    think i'll wait till the c/o are on tho to make any adjustments to the rear again...
     
  3. Jan 27, 2014 at 10:09 AM
    #2743
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    Yeah I've thought A LOT about building a second gen, and believe me it would not be a LT/SUA truck. I'm intimately familiar with the hangers, and it would be a cake walk to plate/gusset them or build factory geometry ones and make them the strongest part of the rear suspension.
    When I was referring to uptravel, I didn't mean in terms of LT. Just in terms of what you guys are doing. To get the same uptravel you would get with a factory hanger/shackle, you leaf pack is going to go wicked negative arch (which kind of looks like it is from one of the pictures you posted). Which means either you bump it lower, or replace your leafs anually/bi-anually.
    And to add one more detail, all the retail aftermarket springs for 2nd gens were designed and tested for factory inverted shackles. By switching to traditional shackles you're changing the spring rate, travel, and ride and handling characteristics, none of which the spring was tested for. Just my 2 cents. Like I said...I hate leaf springs.
     
  4. Jan 27, 2014 at 10:14 AM
    #2744
    PS78

    PS78 I like beer, I brew beer!

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    to many to list, check the build thread
    hmmm, keep me posted on those BAMF LCA skids!!!
     
  5. Jan 27, 2014 at 10:15 AM
    #2745
    NYCO

    NYCO [OP] go explore...

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    i don't disagree..it's definitely a double edged sword when flipping the shackle...

    :popcorn: for jberry designs factory replacement hangers :D
     
  6. Jan 27, 2014 at 10:20 AM
    #2746
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    LOL...not gonna happen anytime soon. Keeping my first gen for the foreseeable future.
     
  7. Jan 27, 2014 at 10:42 AM
    #2747
    lotsoftoys

    lotsoftoys pavement is boring....

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    bunch of crap
    m y understanding is when the shckle is stright up and down there is now spring rate change on the spring.... this is the only photo i could find during a quick search. but these shackle angles are what i think are desirable. at ride height they would sit just a little past vertical.... and are able to swing both forward for droop and backwards for compression

    default.jpg
     
  8. Jan 27, 2014 at 10:54 AM
    #2748
    LoadedTaco

    LoadedTaco Kick A$$ Member

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    I thought you never want your shackles to look like they do in that picture? Doesn't that then simply act like an extension of the spring?

    Check out 5:15s into this video, granted it is for a trailer, but they explain the basics of a shackel and how it works.

    http://youtu.be/3FBf9yF6n4s


    Edit: I am going to go back to reading and not contributing....
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2014
  9. Jan 27, 2014 at 11:06 AM
    #2749
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    Rule of thumb...traditional shackles should be at 90* full droop, roughly 45* at ride height (tunable depending on what you want to accomplish), and nearly flat at full compression.
    Negative angle on shackles at droop is a no-no
     
  10. Jan 27, 2014 at 11:21 AM
    #2750
    BradyT88

    BradyT88 Well-Known Member

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    Oh yeah. 1 thing I forgot to mention here is is about the shackle hangers. While they do have lower and I have drug them a lot more (there was no paint left on the bottom of them after only 2 weeks of having them on) but they have handled the abuse great unlike my OEM ones that were starting to get deformed.

    I doubt the DMZ kit is for you, it isn't handling my weight well it seems and I don't have a tent on the back. But maybe you cab pick up a 50T pack or a custom Alcan or Deaver pack that can hold your weight and give you lots of travel. I am liking all the extra uptravel. My rig stays a lot more level while crawling.
     
  11. Jan 27, 2014 at 11:29 AM
    #2751
    Socalduckslayer

    Socalduckslayer Pelfreybilt Off-Road

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    Bob, I am in the same spot as you. SUA or not? giving up the clearance is a concern but the up-travel gain is desirable. I talked to Tim at DMZ about it and with all the weight its a tough one, might work with a custom spring pack.
    The tapered frame geometry on the second gens are tough to deal with because moving hangers etc to go to a longer SOA spring setup throws off the centerline geometry for the axle location, from center, left to right.
    I like my setup for the most part but would like the additional up-travel for when traveling at speed. The hydro bumps help but not as much as another 4-5" of travel would.
    Why can we have best of both worlds?
     
  12. Jan 27, 2014 at 11:32 AM
    #2752
    BradyT88

    BradyT88 Well-Known Member

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    4 link? :notsure: haha
     
  13. Jan 27, 2014 at 11:33 AM
    #2753
    Socalduckslayer

    Socalduckslayer Pelfreybilt Off-Road

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    Yes, a coilover in the rear would be a nice fix. Its actually a consideration, along with the front. Its the 6 months and 20K thats making me hesitate. Believe it or not the wife is pushing for it.
     
  14. Jan 27, 2014 at 11:38 AM
    #2754
    BradyT88

    BradyT88 Well-Known Member

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    I dont have the skill to design a linked setup to do what I would like nor the money to pay someone to build it on top of having to relocate the fuel tank/buy a fuel cell and such...

    So SUA will get me by until I can afford to have it linked, assuming that time ever comes. Haha.
     
  15. Jan 27, 2014 at 11:43 AM
    #2755
    Socalduckslayer

    Socalduckslayer Pelfreybilt Off-Road

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    I like the idea of a SFA rig done right but its a huge deal to do, mind as well do the rear at the same time.

    My wife likes the hi-speed stuff as much as the crawling so shes more on board with the long travel idea. Her argument is you can get almost as much travel with a good long travel setup as a SFA and still be able to haul ass.
    She wants the Solo Motorsports 19" Travel kit in the front and the Giant 64" SUA rear.
    I had her convinced to do straight axle and then last weekend Jason (Jberry) took her for a few hot laps and she was sold on the long travel.

    It all sounds great but I still gotta make the house payment
     
  16. Jan 27, 2014 at 12:07 PM
    #2756
    NYCO

    NYCO [OP] go explore...

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    up until this point i have been trying to keep a lower budget suspension build staying with the OME setup...$$ is always the problem when trying to figure out a good setup..

    there's some great options out there, but time and money are sacrificed to get that setup...

    i think a talk with alcan is in the future to see what they can do about a spring that works better with the shackle flip...maybe there is a good in between that will work better.
     
  17. Jan 27, 2014 at 12:21 PM
    #2757
    BradyT88

    BradyT88 Well-Known Member

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    I want the Solo LT kit as well, but that is a while out... I was told by several people to stay away from the Giant 64" SUA kit. Even mjp2 who has the kit himself said he wouldn't buy it again.
     
  18. Jan 27, 2014 at 12:46 PM
    #2758
    Gramps

    Gramps My walker is faster than your Prius!

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    That discussion has been had with Alcan and you will be seeing the results of that soon on Noah's rig. We discussed it at length with Alcan and Noah finally got his leaf packs a couple of weeks ago. Alcan did set them up to work with a regular shackle not inverted. Also lengthened them to hopefully allow proper cycling. Keep in mind he is also doing a taller shock tower from BAMF, with the longer spring from Alcan, and the shackle flip all in this set up that RTI is installing.

    Based on his results I will be looking at Alcan's as my replacement for the EXPO's. But it will be interesting to see how his set up performs. My EXPO's continue to run strong so I am not in a hurry.

    I am like Bob though in the fact that mine is a bit more Expedition and not a full out rock crawler that needs to completely flex. If I was solely after crawling and flex it would be linked and coiled. So it is a matter of finding the balance of flex, ride, and weight capabilities. I have had my shackle flip on my EXPOS from AP for almost 2 years now and they are still functioning great. Even with just factory bumps on them and negative arch happening when I get flexy. :D
     
  19. Jan 27, 2014 at 1:18 PM
    #2759
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    None of that is required. A well built 3 link/panhard, keeping the bed and factory gas tank, will perform just as well as a 4 link or triangulated 3 link.

    Dovetail frame on the second gens are a pain in the ass! Only so much you can do with it. Honestly I like how Anthondy (DTFTacoma) did his rear springs. He's using a strait shackle instead of angled and was able to have the hanger almost in the factory spot instead of low like the DMZ kit....and beefy as shit!

    [​IMG]

    I would stay away from both of those kits. Solo kit is badass, but it's not all about dick measuring (travel). It's not proven, a ton of fab work, ridiculously priced, and all custom parts. My buddy in Santa Cruz bought the kit and was the first one to install it outside of Solo's shop and it was a fucking nightmare. Not to mention that kit is WIDE. You'll be every bit as capable with a TC/Burg 3.5" kit, and more off the shelf compatibility. If you want to cut out the coil buckets and run your own shock hoop you can still run 10" stroke shocks and get a little more up/down and dual rates.

    Giant...I have nothing good to say about Giant. The rear of my truck started out as a Giant contraption, and I've fixed or rebuilt everything except the bed cage. Fuck Giant.

    I'm so over leaf springs at this point.
     
  20. Jan 27, 2014 at 1:41 PM
    #2760
    Socalduckslayer

    Socalduckslayer Pelfreybilt Off-Road

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    Nice to hear opinions on both of those kits, I dont know anybody who has dealt with either, they look impressive on paper, beyond that I have not dug too deep. I hadn't really considered LT until you took Satin for a ride so thanks asshole :p
     
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