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NYCO's '06 Boosted Blue Betty

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Builds (2005-2015)' started by NYCO, May 18, 2011.

  1. Jan 22, 2015 at 9:37 PM
    #4441
    NYCO

    NYCO [OP] go explore...

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  2. Jan 22, 2015 at 9:54 PM
    #4442
    SconnieHailer

    SconnieHailer PutterClutch

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    I think these are the same ones I had for a while. Definitely better than the b110 which I had before them. Good news is you can revalve :D
     
  3. Jan 22, 2015 at 10:02 PM
    #4443
    NYCO

    NYCO [OP] go explore...

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    will probably happen down the line. figure out a good way to get the most out of both F & R

    maybe fly Jason out for a weekend of tuning haha
     
  4. Jan 22, 2015 at 10:03 PM
    #4444
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    Jason doesn't tune icons.
    Icons piss Jason off.
     
  5. Jan 23, 2015 at 5:00 AM
    #4445
    NYCO

    NYCO [OP] go explore...

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    so correction. get Jason out here to wheel while schooling us on tuning so he can sit around drinking some beers after while I rebuild my shocks :cool:
     
  6. Jan 23, 2015 at 5:22 AM
    #4446
    Whitecloud

    Whitecloud Cloudy-fabricator of things

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    ICON Extended travel Coilovers, Custom leaf pack, custom sliders and F&R bumpers, 295 75 17 Toyo Open Country MT's, On-Board air with F+R connectors, On-Board water with quick disconnect shower.Trimmed fenders and body mount chop. LOTS of wiring, dual battery setup, Solar charging system, with some random lights spread around here and there.
    Why?^^^

    Hahahahaha
     
  7. Jan 23, 2015 at 7:46 AM
    #4447
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    Now that sounds like a plan!

    Proprietary hypodermic needle charge port.
    Two piece countersunk piston basically forces you to keep a digressive valving characteristic.
    Impossible to learn anything on the interwebs about tuning them.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2015
  8. Jan 23, 2015 at 10:03 AM
    #4448
    SconnieHailer

    SconnieHailer PutterClutch

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    My resi icons had a normal shraeder valve :notsure: Never pulled mine apart but that piston sounds interesting...

    Also shock related Jason, do you know why king use a different aluminum for the IFP in the resi when most other companies use the same as what the resi is made of? seems like a bad idea for thermal expansion tolerences? Ive wondered if this is why i've pressurized the oil side of my shocks twice now (this is hydrolock right?) Had to depressurize by unscrewing the elbow slowly... Followed the book on rebuild too, all seems good now with all new buna seals.

    /sidetrack in Bobs thread :eek:
     
  9. Jan 23, 2015 at 10:06 AM
    #4449
    NYCO

    NYCO [OP] go explore...

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    what's a build thread without proper sidetracking :)
     
  10. Jan 23, 2015 at 10:07 AM
    #4450
    Round II

    Round II Member #12005

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    :popcorn:
     
  11. Jan 23, 2015 at 10:49 AM
    #4451
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    The fill port depends on which icon it is (size and resi vs non-resi). You can also retrofit the needle port with a standard schrader.

    As for the IFP, king uses 6061 aluminum. I don't know what fox uses for material, but it's a lot smaller than the king IFP.
    ADS uses hard anodized 7075 in the main piston, so I would assume they are using the same for the IFP.

    As for the main piston, both king and ADS use a bronze wear band. Fox (and I'm pretty sure Icon) use a shit teflon band

    Hydrolock's suck. They can happen for a number of reasons. I've had it happen to one of my kings because I didn't set the IFP depth correctly and it blew the seal on the IFP. After that, I just bottom out the IFP in the resi to get as big of a nitrogen cavity I can get.
     
  12. Jan 23, 2015 at 12:36 PM
    #4452
    NYCO

    NYCO [OP] go explore...

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    ^good info like that is why sidetracking can be helpful
     
  13. Jan 23, 2015 at 4:41 PM
    #4453
    SconnieHailer

    SconnieHailer PutterClutch

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    :thumbsup:

    Yea, i've always bottomed them out cuz you said to Jason. Last time I talked with DSM they mentioned that the ifp and resi were not the "same" metal in kings and that can sometimes cause inconsistent thermal expansion/contraction and loss of seal between the ifp and resi.

    I did have some fox's apart a few weeks ago and did notice that wear band as well as how small the ifp was... It seems odd to me too that fox run stiffer rebound shims than compression in most of their out of the box stuff, is their piston just designed to work like that?
     
  14. Jan 23, 2015 at 5:37 PM
    #4454
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    King resi's are a 6063 drawn aluminum tube while fox uses low carbon DOM steel. Fully admit that the IFP in Kings are of a "looser" fit in terms of tolerances than fox. Thermal expansion plays it's part and makes it even looser. That's why you'll always find a bit of oil in the nitrogen cavity of any king resi. That said...bottom out the IFP, keep seal maintenance in check and you shouldn't run into problems. Shit happens no matter what. Get any shock hot enough and fluid breaks down, seals blow, hydrolock happens.

    Fox piston design is completely different. The rebound side is a 4 port piston bored at .31" each, which equates to .302 inches squared total flow. Whereas king uses a 3 port rebound side bored at .329" each allowing for only .255 inches squared flow. Because fox has the extra rebound port, the piston flows more fluid. So to compensate you have to run a thicker rebound stack to do what king's piston's do naturally. Fox flow ports are also bored conical where king flow ports are bored strait. IMO and experience, it's a lot easier to tune a king piston because of the strait bore. That's the whole reason Fox has their top secret decoder ring valving sheet which is all over the map. King's are easy.
     
  15. Jan 23, 2015 at 5:43 PM
    #4455
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    More food for thought.

    Location of the actual resi tube plays a big role in tuning as well. You'll notice most coilovers have the resi tube that comes off the top of the shock. But look at any King bypass and the resi tube comes off the bottom of the shock. When the resi is off the top, the resi IFP plunges as the shock compresses (read this as less efficient). When its off the bottom, the IFP plunges on the rebound side, so all the oil gets pushed through the valving all the way through the compression stroke.

    Also...larger shock bodies (2.5 vs 2.0) typically mean more valve shims. This equates to more tunabily with the valving.
     
  16. Jan 23, 2015 at 6:43 PM
    #4456
    SconnieHailer

    SconnieHailer PutterClutch

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    Damnit Jason, thanks for making some fking sense! I wish I could have gotten the same worded answer from the last reps i talked to about it. And thanks for the full breakdown on fox piston vs king! As for the resi mount location, i heard that from ads telling me about their piggyback style doing that as their oem rear replacement series. +1 more for ADS!

    again thanks for just putting it all down. I never know what to believe when looking shit up "online" everyone seems to know everything...
     
  17. Jan 23, 2015 at 6:55 PM
    #4457
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    Who were the last "reps" u talked to?
    The breakdown on pistons is just rebound. Compression is a whole separate beast. Fox uses 4 oval ports and King uses 6 rounded ports. Lots of moving parts. I have the diameter and flow rates written down in the shock tuning station (in the garage next to the beer fridge) for compression too if you need those. It just boils down to time, testing, and experience.

    And I'm just some asshole on the Internet. Don't take everything I say as gospel. I assure you I am biased, but for a reason.
     
  18. Jan 23, 2015 at 7:31 PM
    #4458
    SconnieHailer

    SconnieHailer PutterClutch

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    good spot for the chart :D A shot of that chart would be helpful for sure as i'm working with a friend who's fox's i helped revalve not long ago. Had a few trial and errors due to the piston being so different than kings which i'm used to working with. I owe ya if we both make it to Moab this year.

    Haha, never took all you said as gospel since the 8 stack on reb did NOT work for me... must be a 1'st gen vs 2'nd gen thing? idk 8 was too fast with my weight, it was a toss fest. But also, my terrain differs from yours, and driving style. Building my own bias as I go but your help has fast-tracked it a bunch :cool:
     
  19. Jan 23, 2015 at 8:06 PM
    #4459
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    That's because you wheel wrong. :stirthepot:

    Super top secret valving decoder ring charts:

    2.0"
    http://www.ridefox.com/fox_tech_center/owners_manuals/20_SERIES_VALVING_SPECS.pdf
    2.5"
    http://www.ridefox.com/dl/offroad/FOX_OR_25_VALVING.pdf
     
  20. Jan 24, 2015 at 7:35 AM
    #4460
    SconnieHailer

    SconnieHailer PutterClutch

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    :laughing: imo wheeling is subjective not objective... I never hit dunes, and most all of my off-road time is fast shitty two track with the occasional "deeper" whoop section (besides some crawling). I feel like I need the slower rebound on that type of road based on my experience. :gossip: the rebound stack i currently have in the rear is the stack DSM did for the pelfreybilt kit based on Tylers truck, which is very similar to mine.
     
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