O2 sensor codes....

My 2010 Tacoma V6 has a check engine light on. According to 2 sources that have checked my system, P2195 is the error code. It's listed as bank #1, sensor #1. I called the dealership and was told it's the passenger side of the motor. Estimated cost of repair is $300.00. Can anyone verify if that's a correct location? If I decide to do the repair myself, where is a good place to buy the sensor? Any brand recommended? Best to use a sensor from the Toyota parts dept?

 

You could do this yourself for about $70 for the part and an hour or so replacing...sounds like the forward O2 sensor has taken a dump.....as long as the sucker does not have frozen threads fairly EZ to replace...

How handy are you with tools?

 

I'm pretty handy with tools. Usually do my own repairs on things. I did see the sensors (one on each side, both before the cat)....I did see they did look kinda semi rusted. Looks like a long extension and the right socket size would get me there. Probablt be a good idea to hit the area with some kind of PRB first and let it do it's magic. I couldn't see where the wire harness went though. Somewhere behind the motor. The code said bank 1 sensor 1. I assumed it would be on the driver's side but the Dealership said passenger side. How can I find that out for sure where the Bank 1 sensor 1 is located?

 

Someone will chime is, I think it is the passenger side that is the side with the coil packs, so I assume it is on Bank 1 side...

I think BamaToy will be able to properly answer which side...

Edit: I see you called the dealership and they gave you the information, go for it, yes, PB Blaster will help with the removal, plan a few hours for soaking, then go for it, the sensor has a pigtail going to a socket, just find the end, disconnect, remove old one, and do the opposite on install, done...

 

Bank 1 sensor 1 is the before cat sensor that is on the same side of the engine as the #1 cylinder. Bank 1 is cylinder 1, 3, and 5. Bank 2 is cylinder 2, 4, and 6.

As for a good PBR, get PB Blaster. It is the absolute best for rusty bolts and nuts.

 

I found a cylinder designation. It looks like (correct me if I'm wrong) if you're looking at the front of the motor......the closest left side cylinder is #1. Then closest right cylinder is #2. So the dealership would have been correct saying that bank#1 sensor#1 is the one on the passenger side. That one looks to be a little easier to get at than the other side. Now, is it important to purchase at the dealer or is aftermarket suitable? I did call a dealership and they couldn't tell me for sure which sensor I needed without my VIN number. I offered to give him the error code but he said that wouldn't help. He said the sensor would probably be about $150.00. I did a quick search online and saw one for $118.00.

 

rockauto...

 

Thanks for the tips on getting this situation fixed up. Although, another thing might be part of the problem.........At the same exact time the "check engine light" came on, so did the "VSC" (vehicle stability control) light. One thing I noticed in the last few days (we had about 8" of snowfall) is that when the truck's traction breaks loose there used to be an annoying beeper that would go off telling you that you've lost traction. I've tested that a few times and there isn't a beeper any longer. So, there must be something to that VSC not functioning, thus the light on the dash being on.
So I ask myself, what are the chances of my CO2 going bad at the same time as my VSC system going bad? Kinda unlikely. I'm all for saving money by doing what I can to repair my stuff but I'm wondering if there's another issue that's causing both of these lights to on. I'd hate to spend the money and time replacing the sensor only to find it wasn't bad.
My feeling is maybe it would be better to cave in and go to the dealer. Maybe it's just a bad muffler bearing! Any thoughts or wisdom?

 

Vsc will not function with check engine light on. There are systems that work together and so a fault in one will cause the other systems to ignore inputs from that system. It has no understanding that a bad o2 is the issue and would not effect the partnered system unlike a tps sensor for instance. All it knows is there is a problem so shut me down......

 

Thanks Mike.......Looks like I'll relax a little, get the sensor, and have at it. Have a nice Thanksgiving!

 

TY. You too...

 

I looked at a Denso unit at Rockauto. It says OEM like. Can I assume it would work as well as OEM? Sorry for another question.......

 

There are a few things I only use that is factory. Oil filters, cat converters and sensors. That is my OWN PREFERENCE. Many on here have used aftermarket denzo parts with no problem. I don't see a reason not to..... I have used denzo parts in a cust. vehicle without an issue.

 

Hi Mike....it's me again. Just an update........I was leary about ordering an aftermarket sensor and installing it. I thought I might be asking for trouble plus I felt it might be better to have Toyota analyze the situation. So I went to them today and paid my $45.00 to have them analyze the problem. According to their findings, P0136/oxygen sensor circuit (bank 1 sensor2); P0138/oxygen sensor circuit high voltage (bank 1 sensor 2); P2195/oxygen sensor signal stuck lean (bank 1 sensor 1). They say the sensor being too lean can cause melting of the catalytic converter.
Estimate of repair $620.00 + tax.

I was a little shocked. I was hoping for a minor miracle, maybe loose hose, bad connection at the connector or something simple (and cheap). I figured worst case scenario it could be a $300.00 repair. I just about choked when they told me their findings. Not sure what I'm going to do. I need to regroup my strategy.

 

I do understand where your coming from.

But here's the situation.

I have had bad o2 sensors replaced and the same code come back. It ends up being the AF sensor. For whatever reason in some cases each sensor would affect the other even tho they moniter different agendas.
However.
In this case where you have 2 codes for the 02 it is possible that the lean situation with the AF sensor might have taken out the downstream sensor or it is just shorted and driving down the voltages on that side. Which would affect the af sensor.

What I would do is if all these codes are pending then I would just figure on replacing both but I would start with the sensor #2. If they are not then I would. See which code was pending and replace that sensor first. I know it's a lot to absorb but what I'm trying to do is not replacing both sensors at one shot where you may NOT need to.
Another scenario you must understand is that in some cases a new sensor will give a fit to the other old sensor. Where as the new one responds quickly and without hesitation an old sensor can be lazy and slow to respond.
This in itself will upset the balance of the readings the ecu is wanting between the two sensors. So where the sensor your not replacing is ok with it's old friend the new one just runs away and the old one can't keep up. And a different code can be thrown.

So try changing the pending code sensor first but be prepared for the second.
Get your own sensors and try. Don't force anything and if you run into trouble ask for help. There is only so much you can do without proper tools and a torch so don't bull anything and break stuff.
If you think it's more than I can handle then definately get someone to help because you can dig yourself a hole.
Good luck......

 

Once again, thanks so much. Because of all potential good and bad that could occur, I think my best bet is to just "bite the bullet" and have the stealership do the work. Ouch......Merry Christmas....LOL. One other thing I need to check on........I had called a different Toyota dealership a few days ago about this "Emmissions" warranty. They told me (if I remember correctly)that the sensors upstream were not covered (5 years, 80,000mi) but the cat and the sensors downstream were covered under the "emmissions warranty." I asked them yesterday about this and THEY told me only the cat was covered under that warranty. I'll call the other dealer back today and see if maybe I can at least get the downstream sensor replaced under that warranty.

Thanks again Mike.....it sure sounds like you're the MAN with knowledge about how all this stuff works.

 

I think you can get them for the same price as rockauto here https://parts.olathetoyota.com and they're a dealer so it's for SURE OEM stuff...check em out..

 

Just be carefull trying to split work between 2 places. You may cause more problems than it's worth. Our ASM's have a book in their drawer when these questions come up for reference. Seems like they keep on changing what's covered and not.

 

Thanks for that link. I did check and you can definitely save some money. Still trying to decide if I want to give it a try or not.

 

I wouldn't have one shop do a sensor and another do the other sensor.....if that's what you meant. Tonite when I got home from work I took a look at the sensors and their locations. The one after the cat would be easy to get to. I couldn't say the difficulty of loosening the sensor but the plug is right there. The top one before the cat has a pretty big issue as I see it. The connector is behind the motor and above the bell housing. I really don't see a way of getting my arm and hand near it to get it disconnected. I crawled under the truck and it doesn't look any easier to come up from the bottom. Maybe if it was on a lift it might be more doable. But, from a laying under the truck position......I don't see it happening.

Another thought was about the wrench needed to break the nut loose. I would want to use a "boxed" end wrench. The only way I can see to do that is to undo the connector first, then thread the connector through the boxed end of the wrench. Then slide the wrench down the wire and over the nut. What I don't know is if the connector would even fit through the boxed end of the wrench or if it would be too big to fit through. I'd be concerned that an "open end" wrench might round off the nut if it didn't break loose quick enough.